Development E-6

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reveladoreversible
Posts: 1
Joined: Mon Mar 28, 2011 6:56 am
Real name: Angel Caro

Development E-6

Post by reveladoreversible » Mon Mar 28, 2011 2:30 pm

Hi, friends:

Here I write a tutorial on how to release a film with E-6 process and obtain good results.
The best results I've got to 18 º C with a grain almost imperceptible.

To do this tutorial, I have relied on advice of the great masters of the revealed and my own conclusions, after going noting each step I have been given.

The first thing to do is prepare accurately measuring chemical amounts provides us with the manufacturer of each kit. The ideal is to mix the components at temperatures that are between 18-30 º C. Depending on where you live, the water will be treated more or less and you can use the tap or in bottles (that you will know after the first revealed). If there are stains after drying will have to use bottled water.

After mixing the components, we should expect a few hours for the various components to mix and reach their highest level of performance. In the case of E-6 kit Tetenal, we know that has left this time when we see that the color developer (second chromogen developer or developer) has changed color and instead of being purple, it becomes amber.

To go ahead of time while they mature chemicals, loaded coils with our popular films and done this, fill the tank with tap water. The burden of the spirals is also very important and we must do it without haste, because if we load too fast is filled with static electricity and a spark can jump, which will ensure the bit where the spark has jumped.

The movement of the spiral must be circular in the sense of clockwise (back tanks) and a linear-horizontal (up and down). This move should be for 5-7 seconds every 30 seconds, sandwiching the two movements for the development is steady and act equally to all parts of the negative. In the case of E-6 process, you should not shake too hard because then the movie will drive the spiral and did not enter the chemicals, causing a glaze anything nice to viewing.

Process to follow:

0. We will make an initial rinse with water and a duration not exceeding 5 minutes.

After this first rinse, do the second with a duration of 15 minutes.

We will do several rinses until the water runs clear.

If by chance you have to leave the process to go wherever you or because it's late and going to sleep, no problem, vaciáis the tank the next day revealed procederéis to as if nothing (absolutely nothing happens.)

These rinses are very important, since virtually eliminate them and pollute the minimum dye baths.

1. First developer (duration 30 minutes):

We will not stop moving the coil until the timer reaches the 0:30 seconds. This step is important because it is the first negative contact with the chemical and that contact has to be the most uniform possible. After that, we will move every 30 seconds, that is: the minute 1:00 to 1:07, from 1:30 to 1:37, from 2:00 to 2:07 ... And so on up to 30 minutes.

2. Rinses (duration 3 minutes):

In this step we must not fail to move the spiral until we start to leave you empty the tank. I recommend at least 2 rinses.

3. Color developer (duration 10 minutes):

Exactly the same as described in the first developer, but in this case only have the chemical for 10 minutes.

4. Rinses (duration 3 minutes):

Same as before rinsing.

5. Fixer (duration 7 minutes):

The movement of this bath is the same as in the two developers: the first 30 seconds and then every 30 seconds.

6. Rinses (duration 3 minutes):

Just like the other two.

Now we have the negative developer and fixer, and all we need thorough cleaning and bathing in a stabilizer. For cleaning, I recommend to let it rest (put in the spiral) in water for 15 minutes and RIEF changing the water and again leave for 15 minutes. Repeat the cleaning until water is completely transparent.

After this last wash, we put the spiral in the stabilizer bath for 2 to 3 minutes minimum and without much moving spirals, because otherwise it will provoke a lot of foam and will leave spots during drying.

Now is the time to make the negative spiral and allow to dry. We must try by all means, do not touch the negative with your fingers and if we have to stop hanging somewhere, I recommend it in a zig-zag order to distribute the weight in different places and always by the side of the bracket not to scratch the emulsion.

Greetings and good disclosed.

PD. Sorry for my English, I used the Google translator


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