What have you been working on lately?

[slashmaster]

Yes, I understand a three-elements lens by triplet. The Cooke triplet lens.

The point about cleanliness with photographic lenses is not dust but veil. One has to avoid grease in any case. I sometimes wear nitrile fingerstalls or cotton gloves with larger lenses, the small ones I pick with tweezers and a cotton swab. It can take a while to get rid of particles and cotton linters but someone once invented the brush.

The lenses must find their seats in the barrel. Suction cups are helpful for twisting a lens on its seat. The glass is quite round, barrels are often found out of round.

Yeah, that's what I meant! I can get each lens element nice and clean with the lens cleaning kit but to get it back together you have to touch it which is where the problem is. What are you using for suction cups? The vacuum pump and suction cups they come with from an automotive store? Yeah I have problems with a particular projector lens getting a flint and crown in the seat. Not sure if I should put them in together or one at a time. Might have to lathe down a pipe to guide them into the seat. You've found barrels out of round? Just by looking or did you check with a lathe?

[alexmuir]

So the lens is just 3 elements huh? I've got a Yvar c-mount like that. Were you able to get it back together nice and clean? I'm still having trouble getting them back together without leaving fingerprints on any of the elements.

Are you wearing gloves for the re-assembly? It makes things a bit easier, although I can imagine the glass parts are really small and gloves may not be possible. I've only worked on lenses for larger formats where gloves are a great help.
Alex



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No, I've been using the disposable wipes from a lens cleaning kit to hold them. Are you talking about thin cotton gloves? Or the non powdered plastic ones? Either way, if you know a site or video on how to do it well I'd love to see it.

Sorry for the late reply. I've just seen this post. Yes, I meant the cotton gloves you get for film handling. Assembly of a lens would justify a fresh new pair. You can buy them in packs of three or more pairs.
Having read the following posts, I can see the difficulty involved in getting the elements back into the barrel, especially with smaller lenses. I remember seeing a pick-up tool aimed at modellers that had a slightly tacky, but non marking tip. I cannot recall the name/brand, but a look at suppliers of model-making tools may find it, and perhaps some other useful devices.
I recently bought an Ilford anti-static cloth for cleaning negatives prior to enlargement. That may also prove useful in avoiding dust and lint attaching to the glass surfaces.
Alex.


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[alexmuir]

The pick-up tools I was thinking of are called Hobby Pal suction pick-up tool and Model Pal suction pick-up tool. They re made in USA. One is more expensive than the other, but the basic one looks ideal for lifting and placing lens elements.
I can't see the tacky type, but the suction ones are a better idea for glass.
Alex


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[nikonr10]

Put filmmaking on the back burner for now as not much to say ! still have around 20 carts of 100D to uses .
just being tinkering With with my Beaulieu 4008 zm 2 after she being siting around with no battery for some years ,
So made my own battery pack/ cable { wow & it was easy using aaa battery boxs & a empty ink printer bottle gaffer tape }

Also found a way to now mount that little wonder of a len the iscomorphot 8/1.5x to Beaulieu 4008 zm 2 .
still waiting for astep up ring from ebay . Got it down to a 25mm c mount as the prime lens .

The idea was to use stuff which I had with out sending large sums of euros so very pleased .

Will post photos when finished

[inlieubeaulieu]

Back in August I shot a bunch of footage of the Eclipse here in Oregon with my Éclair ACL. I made an initial edit with my own music, but then altered it to fit a Ryuichi Sakamoto track to enter a short-film competition: https://vimeo.com/235830553

also, my previous film, Corpse Quatrain ( https://youtu.be/4Sab8BLhAJY ) was accepted into the NW Filmmakers' Festival (and is playing tonight!)

[Mmechanic]

Gave a complete overhaul to a Zeiss-Ikon Movikon 16 made in 1940. Took pictures, wrote an article about it, and published on a German forum. Want to translate or rather rewrite the text in French and English for a larger readership, but why? Because the camera enjoys an almost mythic reputation with many people although it is one of the worsely made. Frankly, it is catastrophy. Rip-off.

[studiocarter2]

Been tuning up the H16 T with lens caps, non RX 10mm, 2 inch f1.5 Elgeet, fast new tv 50mm lens, and trying to push 7266 using D-19 which did not work but I did get box speed in low light outdoors.

[studiocarter2]

Besides those things, I had two 75mm lenses lubricated and now one focuses. The other works smoothly but does not focus. The person who lubed it did not reset focus. Someone tinkered with it.

[Mmechanic]

Bought a Filmo 70-DL off eBay. Wouldn’t budge. After removal of the front the mechanism run quietly down as expected. The shutter was stuck, after a night in light oil I could turn it free and lift it out. It is important to use only oil free from resins and acids. The high-speed governor, the shifting and spring-loaded sprocket drums, the hardened steels employed for the film gate parts, the large shutter opening angle, I can only confirm that Bell & Howell made first-class equipment. Unfortunately the critical focusing tube that protrudes from the body is butted and there is rust on a few parts of the lid. This is my first Filmo 70, it’s my training model. I have a focusing alignment gauge for it and want to try out the rackover system, want to compare it to the Paillard-Bolex H system.

[doug]

Have recently tested a Bolex H16RX, one of the earlier models with a flat base. It almost looks like new ! And the spring motor is very constant. As always doing these sorts of tests, I mounted the camera securely clamped to the top of my Steenbeck (which isn't going anywhere )
Then set up a target of newsprint near the window. Did two passes with the second slightly aimed to one side, and underexposing by one stop (with variable shutter closed halfway). Then arranged three wooden blocks at slightly different distances, again carrying newsprint, and set the zoom lens on maximum focal length and aperture. The central one just visible between the others.
Got the Wittnerchrome film back. First I examined the focusing test on the lightbox. It was spot on. Central newsprint pin-sharp, meaning the viewfinder is perfect. I'd also tested its field of view and found it is very central, although there's quite a border around it that isn't seen... yet appears on the film ! I suppose this is normal, so I will have to allow during filming. Rather annoying.
Now the steadiness test.
I had to project the film several times because I could hardly believe it. Firstly I thought I hadn't done the second pass properly. Yes, incredibly it looked like one pass ! There's no deviation between the two images. It looks like a projected still slide !
So I'm amazed. Originally I was thinking of selling the camera. But not now
Although somehow I feel uncomfortable using a camera with pristine leather and shiny chrome.

[Mmechanic]

Paillard-Bolex H cameras can perform comparably to professional cameras at speeds not greater than about 30 fps. In the higher range a registration-pin design beats them. Paillard used the term registration claw, I find that dangerous, but they also used the expression professional amateur from 1937 on, even worse in regards to misunderstandings.

What your test benefits from is the polyester film base. Polyester film behaves like film just freshly cut and perforated. The camera’s lateral guidance elements can act at their best and the full perforation pitch helps with steadiness anyway. Interesting report!

[doug]

Paillard-Bolex H cameras can perform comparably to professional cameras at speeds not greater than about 30 fps. In the higher range a registration-pin design beats them. Paillard used the term registration claw, I find that dangerous, but they also used the expression professional amateur from 1937 on, even worse in regards to misunderstandings.

What your test benefits from is the polyester film base. Polyester film behaves like film just freshly cut and perforated. The camera’s lateral guidance elements can act at their best and the full perforation pitch helps with steadiness anyway. Interesting report!

I see yes. So the polyester Wittner film could be helping the steadiness. It certainly to me sounds quieter than running normal film, but that could be imagination. And I haven't tried filming at fast speeds yet, except with dummy film.
Now I've loaded up with Ektachrome 100D and doing some actual filming. I do pray to the yellow god to bring us more 16mm....

[Eric Milborn]

The Wittner Perf is excellent. Dennis Toeppen from www.toeppenfilm.com did some very interesting tests. All his Double 8 stock was perforated at Wittners

https://vimeo.com/158709257

https://vimeo.com/166930129

Some info about Toeppenfilm:

http://www.toeppenfilm.com/about8mm.html

[studiocarter2]

A Bolex H16 Rex 4 was bought then sent to Super16 Inc to get a CLA and laser brightening and some small repairs.