Close up on Canon 814 Autozoom

[timhan]

Hi all!
I recently shot my very first reel of super 8 and love the quality of the image. Unfortunately, I wanted to get close up shots of text on a mobile phone, but the footage came out very out of focus.

I think I must have been closer than 1.2m, although I thought I kept that distance.

Is there a way of getting an extreme close up with the Canon?

Thanks for the help, Tim.

[greg_8mm]

I dunno if we have the same camera, I have the Autozoom 814 electronic.

On that camera you have the "macro"-nob on the focus ring, which allows you to shoot at super closeup distances when it's activated.

I recently tested this by shooting some water drops on a flat surface. The lens must have been 10mm away from the water drops and the footage looks supersharp!

I havent telecined the film yet so I can't show you..

So if you have the 814 electronic, there's definitely a way..

[timhan]

Ah damn, I don't have the electronic, my 814 is the version before that.

I wonder how the macro function works? I can't see that there would be a way of attaching a different lens to the camera. I wonder if there is a way around this.

Thanks for the feedback though.

[timhan]

By the way, it would be great to see your footage when it's ready!

[flem]

i just got the same camera and am in the middle of my first roll of film. i reread the manual and can´t find any info on the macro setting. hmmm. there must be a way to do it because these cameras are bitchin. i have a question for you, though. in bright sunlight my ee reads overexpose. do you think my ee is wrong or does this camera require a filter in bright light? i will keep looking for the macro answer, i want to know too!

best,

flem

[Mitch Perkins]

Is there a way of getting an extreme close up with the Canon?

Any appropriately-sized double-convex element will do. Use contact cement to glue it to a step-up ring or empty threaded filter ring. You will even be able to zoom through it for XCUs.

Mitch

[timhan]

I'm pretty new to filming, any more detailed information on how to do this woudl be great. Like an example of the which lens and how to cement it, would be fantastic. If you have the time that is.

[timhan]

Hi flem!

The same thing happened to me in bright sunlight too. What is odd is that when the sky is very bright, the ground gets really dark, maybe that makes sense I guess.

I am definitely going to try and get hold of an ND filter, there is apparently another type of filter that can darken the sky too.

Not sure where to get one though.

[flem]

hey tim!

i was just nerding out on the specs for our cameras (auto zoom) vs. auto zoom electronic. the electronic specs note a macro setting, where our specs do not. there must be a way to get a good macro with this camera without having to glue things onto it. i don´t think i´d have the courage for such a bold move. when you say the sky was bright and land dark, do you mean through the viewfinder or on the film? or, both? i am new to this too, so forgive me if some of my questions seem bone-headed.

best,

flem

[timhan]

Through the view finder eveything looked fine. It only came out dark once it was processed. Actually it wasn't really even an escpecially bright day, it was cloudy and very overcast, but still bright.

Easier to show you, have a look at my very first reel here (this is just a camera test really, so don't expect much! 8)

http://www.funkykitten.com

The bit in the park where the benches are and the statue at Picardilly Circus shows what I mean most clearly I think.

[timhan]

BTW, if anyone can give me some pointers in how to improve my camera technique and anything that would improve the image would be greatly appreiciated, thanks!

[Mitch Perkins]

there must be a way to get a good macro with this camera without having to glue things onto it. i don´t think i´d have the courage for such a bold move.

The element is glued to the step-up ring or empty filter ring, not the camera!

Step-up/filter rings thread onto the front of the camera - a safe, simple and very old concept.

Elements can be salvaged from old optical equipment, (printers etc.), or purchased cheap from surplus stores. Should be same or larger diameter as/than camera front element, unless you don't mind some vignetting.

Mitch

[Mitch Perkins]

Hi flem!

The same thing happened to me in bright sunlight too. What is odd is that when the sky is very bright, the ground gets really dark, maybe that makes sense I guess.

Yes, the iris closed down to expose the sky, rather than your intended subject. Walk or zoom up to your subject and take a reading from that. Then lock it, if you can.

While you're zoomed up/in, focus, so that if you zoom in while shooting, focus will hold.

Make sure the camera's diopter/viewfinder is set to your eye - zoom in to an object very far away, set focus ring/taking lens to infinity, and then focus with the viewfinder eyepiece. Alternately you can focus on the little split-screen circle itself - get the lines as sharp as possible.

Mitch

[timhan]

Thanks for the tips! I can lock the aperture, although I didn't really play with it apart from doing a couple of fade outs.

I didn't realize though that if I zoom in it would give me a different reading than being zoomed out! I will try this with my next roll of film.

Have you got any advice on ND filters, etc, or will any do? Same goes for the lens.

[Mitch Perkins]

I didn't realize though that if I zoom in it would give me a different reading than being zoomed out! I will try this with my next roll of film.

It will give a different reading in this case because the bright sky is no longer a factor. That said, most lenses are a little slower at the telephoto end so walking up to your subject is probably better.

Have you got any advice on ND filters, etc, or will any do? Same goes for the lens.

Well, for the double-convex element, you want one without paint or scratches on it, but it doesn't have to be the best piece of glass in the world. NDs I haven't used much - any reputable brand is probably fine.

Mitch