Kodachrome 40

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MrJ
Posts: 28
Joined: Tue Jul 17, 2012 10:59 pm
Real name: Mark Jenkin

Kodachrome 40

Post by MrJ » Fri Jul 19, 2013 1:58 am

Has anyone had any first hand experience of processing this stuff in BW reversal chemistry?

Am I right in thinking that I just need to increase the times for both developers and then clear the remjet with a borax bath after the fixing?

The stock has already been exposed so there's no chance of overexposing it. It's for an experimental/found footage piece so I'm not looking for anything perfect, just a good shot at getting a viewable image.

Many thanks

richard p. t.
Senior member
Posts: 1002
Joined: Sat Oct 15, 2005 3:44 pm
Location: victoria, Australia

Re: Kodachrome 40

Post by richard p. t. » Fri Jul 19, 2013 10:57 am

Hello MRJ,
yes, you do need to push the first developer time. Second developer time can be whatever you normally use - no need to extend it.
If your normal time is 7 minutes, I'd recommend processing for 11.
For remjet removal, I suggest you load the lomo spiral (assuming that is how you are processing). Then immerse the film in your remjet softening solution. The kodak ECN prebath is what I use, but use whatever you can get, and if that is just Borax, use that. Let it soften in the prebath for maybe a minute, then in the dark take the spiral out of the prebath and run it under running water for about 2 minutes. This should get rid of much of the remjet. When I process kodachrome using normal ecn prebath, 95 percent of the remjet comes off at this stage.
Then develop as normal.
Then, after processing, take the film off the spiral and put it in a bucket of water. Have another bucket of water there. slowly pass the film from the first bucket to the second bucket. As it goes through your hands, wipe the back of the film with a chamois (skin cloth) with your thumb. Running water landing on the film at this point is useful. Once I have the film in the second bucket, I then pull the film back through the chamois cloth into the first bucket again, then reload it on the lomo, photoflo it, then hang to dry.
I put it back on the lomo for convenience of hanging given our drying system here. You don't need to do that if you dry some other way.
cheers,
richard
I run Nano Lab - Australia's super8 ektachrome processing service
- visit nanolab.com.au
richard@nanolab.com.au

MrJ
Posts: 28
Joined: Tue Jul 17, 2012 10:59 pm
Real name: Mark Jenkin

Re: Kodachrome 40

Post by MrJ » Sun Jul 21, 2013 12:28 am

Many thanks Richard.

I will follow your advice to the letter...fingers crossed.

Thank you for demystifying the process.

J

john59
Posts: 165
Joined: Tue Oct 12, 2010 7:40 pm
Real name: John Almond
Location: Wigan, England

Re: Kodachrome 40

Post by john59 » Sun Jul 21, 2013 1:33 am

reading this with a lot of interest, if only it was that simple...........no offence................ just saying. :)

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