Question for those who scan their color negatives

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Darren
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Question for those who scan their color negatives

Post by Darren »

I am about to start scan my LomoKino camera motion picture film.

It is shot on regular 35mm still camera stock.

What is the best method to filter out the amber tint of the film stock?
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Darren
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Re: Question for those who scan their color negatives

Post by Darren »

Darren wrote:I am about to start scan my LomoKino camera motion picture film.

It is shot on regular 35mm still camera stock.

What is the best method to filter out the amber tint of the film stock?
Please disregard. I have my solution.
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Mana
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Re: Question for those who scan their color negatives

Post by Mana »

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aj
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Re: Question for those who scan their color negatives

Post by aj »

Most still 35mm scanners do negative scan by themselves.

Somebody ought to adapt the Pakon scanner software for half or quarter format. There was setup shown for scanning ciné 35 using a Pakon F235 but I never located the software.

Suppliers and manufacturers all play dead :)

As I notice it the scanner scans a full 36 frames of 35mm and then the software scans the DX codes and splits the long scan into separate 24x36mm frames. This method would be hard to apply to rolls of 120meter or such :) Scanning these could only work if the splitting is done on the fly.
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Re: Question for those who scan their color negatives

Post by Will2 »

I was very excited when the Lomokino came out and I jumped on it. I tried it once and haven't used it since.

I just had the film processed like normal and had the developer make a photo cd of the images on the negative. If I had it to do over I'd probably use my Epson 850 flatbed to make sure I got all the frames (except where the negatives were cut.) Then I'd probably use After Effects to line them up vs. my Photoshop method below...

Here's a link to the finished product:

https://vimeo.com/34450252
Shot with the new Lomokino 35mm hand-cranked movie camera. Uses 35mm still film and takes 2-perf tall frame.
Had Wolf Camera process and scan the negative. Wound up with 4 frames per scan. The 1st and/or last frame on each scan sometimes was cut off a little as their scan didn't capture 4 frames completely.
Opened them in Photoshop and manually copied each frame into a new Photoshop 1280x460 document. I adjusted each frame a little so it turned out more steady than it really was shot.
Set up the animation within the Photoshop document like making a animated web ad. Set each frame to .2 seconds and exported via Photoshop "render video" option.
Took about 40 minutes the first time.
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