Negative or reversal?

[pip]

I am shooting some black and white super 8 film. There appear to be two choices available to me. The first scenario is that I shoot reversal film - probably Tri X. I then edit this film. Some splicing will have to be done - if only to connect the 15 metre lengths to each other. The splices will be cement. The second scenario is that I shoot negative - probably Orwo UN54 or Orwo N 74, which is actually described as negative film, although presumably Tri X can also be processed to a negative. I then carry out the splicing. I then send this spliced negative away to have a positive print made. The advantage of the second scenario is that the print for projection will be splice-free. However, there are two questions: (a) will the reversal film be of finer grain and (b) assuming that the exposure of the film I am printing onto is constant, will some scenes be necessarily overexposed or underexposed? I assume the second scenario will be more expensive, but I am looking for the moment at just the aesthetic differences.

[Will2]

I have only made 16mm prints, but just like in a telecine transfer, much of the look is under the control of the color timer/colorist. Since you're shooting b&w I guess it would just come down to exposure.

I'm not sure where you're going to have a B&W Super 8 print made. I'd love to hear how it works out for you. Not sure that you can get B&W print stock. It's hard to find in 16 or 35mm.

It is a pleasure to project a nice print without splices. It's also a thinner stock than reversals so it feels different.

[nikonr10]

I am shooting some black and white super 8 film. There appear to be two choices available to me. The first scenario is that I shoot reversal film - probably Tri X. I then edit this film. Some splicing will have to be done - if only to connect the 15 metre lengths to each other. The splices will be cement. The second scenario is that I shoot negative - probably Orwo UN54 or Orwo N 74, which is actually described as negative film, although presumably Tri X can also be processed to a negative. I then carry out the splicing. I then send this spliced negative away to have a positive print made. The advantage of the second scenario is that the print for projection will be splice-free. However, there are two questions: (a) will the reversal film be of finer grain and (b) assuming that the exposure of the film I am printing onto is constant, will some scenes be necessarily overexposed or underexposed? I assume the second scenario will be more expensive, but I am looking for the moment at just the aesthetic differences.

Pip, I think you going find, This not such a easy quest ? As Kodak stop making the Reversal print film . maybe talk to Frank at super8reversal.nl.

[aj]

Andec does color prints. As the only one.