I've been developing 16mm film now for a while in my lomo tank pretty successfully. However I'm pestered by one annoyance which is it's extremely difficult to agitate the film. This is how I've been using it: Tanks with no Spacers by Gauge Film, on Flickr
The above set up provides little agitation. I recently developed films with the cup turned and with a spacer:
However this set up fogged the top edge of the film for about 15 frames towards the centre. It makes sense that the cup be rotated this way though because it fits snugly into the lid:
However rather than fixing the problem it now fogged around 30 seconds on the top edge of the film. I had thought about putting a bit of leader before the film in the centre but the tank just holds 100ft so it's not an option. Here is the only place where light can possibly get in the centre: Top of Tank by Gauge Film, on Flickr
If anyone can think of a way to keep the cup up as to improve agitation whilst keeping the tank light tight that would be amazing. I had considered making a black plastic disk the diameter of the internal tank. The disk could sit directly over the film, completely covering it (between the cup and spacer). If anyone has any other ideas, or knows why this might be happening please give me a post.
The white material appears to let light through in the pictures. I.e. it is translucent.
You can imagine how little is needed to wreck your customers film.
Yes, probably the white stuff makes things worst. But I know the problem: even if my cup is black, with my (50 ft) Lomo tank I always make the first steps in very subdued safety red light. I only switch on the light after 30 seconds in the bleach (for b/w) or after 30 seconds in color developer (for color).
bye livio
Can anyone tell me which way the cup was intended to be used? I don't always have the ability to work under a safety light so it would come in handy to make it light tight if possible.
The only way the spacers could have an impact is if the light was managing to pass through the central thread somehow where the cup screws into place. The translucent spacer came with the tank so I assume it shouldn't make to much difference below the cup. The key is blocking the light off at the cup. Perhaps a simple plate sitting in the bottom of the cup would do the trick? I'll try that next and report back.
livio wrote:Yes, probably the white stuff makes things worst. But I know the problem: even if my cup is black, with my (50 ft) Lomo tank I always make the first steps in very subdued safety red light. I only switch on the light after 30 seconds in the bleach (for b/w) or after 30 seconds in color developer (for color).
bye livio
There are versions of the 50ft LOMO who have a problem with the small hole in the cup which allows the last drops to flow into the tank. It is too big and/or in the wrong place.
Hi Kevin,
the cup should definitely be 'up' and you should use the spacer. The problem I thinkn is that the cup is translucent. I think you are thinking in the right direction when you consider a light proof cup liner. You could even do a lot with black tape.
Livo - what AJ says about the little drain hole in the 50' lomo tank handle is quite right. You need to cover that hole with light proof tape. The hole was unnecessary - at least it is if you pour liquid in and out using the hose, rather than through the lid (which is not a good idea anyway).
richard
I run Nano Lab - Australia's super8 ektachrome processing service
- visit nanolab.com.au
richard@nanolab.com.au
Interesting to see a different variation on this tank. On mine that particular piece is made out of black plastic. I would suggest a combination of some black tape and working in more subdued light that you presently are.
richard p. t. wrote:
Livo - what AJ says about the little drain hole in the 50' lomo tank handle is quite right. You need to cover that hole with light proof tape. The hole was unnecessary - at least it is if you pour liquid in and out using the hose, rather than through the lid (which is not a good idea anyway).
richard
Swapping the fluids through the hose may seem a bit slow option at first. But when you measure the needed time it is pretty quick. Especially when you measure to get a height difference and make gravity pull the soup in or out
I.e. hold up the hose with the funnel when pouring in and hold up the tank (or the hose low) when draining...
aj wrote:
Swapping the fluids through the hose may seem a bit slow option at first. But when you measure the needed time it is pretty quick. Especially when you measure to get a height difference and make gravity pull the soup in or out
I.e. hold up the hose with the funnel when pouring in and hold up the tank (or the hose low) when draining...
Yes, quite so. Using the hose is the way to go. Pouring through the lid is unnecessary and risky as I say.
I run Nano Lab - Australia's super8 ektachrome processing service
- visit nanolab.com.au
richard@nanolab.com.au
Just wanted to say thank you for all the helpful advise.
The hole in the 50ft tanks are completely useless. I covered these up when I started using the tanks years ago. I never really understood their purpose (I suppose drainage if you pour from the top).
I've covered the white cup and translucent spacer with black tape. I still haven't had a chance to develop any of my own 16mm film yet but as soon as I get a day off I'll go and shoot some film and test it all out. I'm confident it'll work. The last 15 frames were barely fogged on the edges (just coming into shot) so hopefully it'll completely fix the problem. Fingers crossed!
Just reporting back on this. I developed some of my own 16mm film last night. I taped up the cup and developed with only a 60W lightbulb in the room and it worked perfectly! I was also testing out my filmo 70DR after a shaft repair. Works great! It's great to know I can confidently process 16mm again now. Shame there wont be too much 100D left though. I'm down to 7 100ft rolls now I think. Terrible business.
