About to shoot my first Ektachrome 100D...Questions...

[sooper8fan]

I finally ordered 3 cartridges of the Ektachrome 100D from Dwayne's and I need some refresher info as it's been a while since I've shot super8

I will be using my Nikon R10 and my Minolta XL601.

When I was using the 64T on my Nikon I had a filter key in place and used an 85B filter on the lens. So now with the 100D what do I do? Should I keep the filter key in place and not use the 85B filter on the lens? or vice versa? Sorry, I forget!

Now, with the Minolta, I've modified the exposure meter to read the 64T as seen here: http://super8wiki.com/index.php/Minolta ... /601_meter. How will this modification affect my exposure with the 100D?

Thanks for the reminders....I need it!

-seth

[super8man]

All you need to do is think about the path of light: 100D is DAYLIGHT balanced just like "normal" film you would buy for your SLR (assuming people still do that). So, since this is the case, NO filter of any kind should be in the light path for 100D.

If it requires you to use a "filter key" in your camera (to remove the ORANGE filter from your path of light), then that's what it takes.

Just think of it this way and you should come to the right conclusions. Same for metering. It's simply 100ASA for the sunny16 rule: use f16 and for shutter speed use 1 over the ASA on a bright sunny day (1/100th). So since you are shooting 1/40th in your Nikon R10, using 100ASA Ektachrome therefore your f-stop will be f22 or higher with no filter in the path of light.

[sooper8fan]

Oh, I also meant to ask.....since the E64T was tungsten balanced, what ASA would that be in daylight? Thanks!

-seth

[super8man]

I believe 40ASA then...meaning, set your hand held light meter to 40ASA when taking readings in daylight for E64T. If you shoot 64T indoors, then set your light meter to 64ASA and make sure no filter is in the path of light.

[mr8mm]

This question has been answered before but it is regarding how to expose E100D when using a simple S8 camera that expects only ASA 160 and ASA 40 carts and does not push the filter out when using a daylight cartridge like the 100D cartridge. If using a camera that pushes the filter out the solution is simple:The camera reads the cart as 160/100 just put the filter in place then the daylight cart pushes the filter out and the camera meters the exposure at EI 100. But how do you correct for daylight 100D when using a camera that does not push the filter out? The camera will read 100D as 160ASA with no filter in place and underexpose the film.

[richard p. t.]

This question has been answered before but it is regarding how to expose E100D when using a simple S8 camera that expects only ASA 160 and ASA 40 carts and does not push the filter out when using a daylight cartridge like the 100D cartridge. If using a camera that pushes the filter out the solution is simple:The camera reads the cart as 160/100 just put the filter in place then the daylight cart pushes the filter out and the camera meters the exposure at EI 100. But how do you correct for daylight 100D when using a camera that does not push the filter out? The camera will read 100D as 160ASA with no filter in place and underexpose the film.

Yes, that is indeed a real problem. There are really two types of 40/160 cameras - those that are also 25/100 daylight speed cameras and those that aren't. With the former, you are right: do nothing. Indeed with the former it is wrong to follow the advice that says to switch the filter out. With these cameras it if you use a filter switch or key to switch out the filter then the camera will read the asa notch in terms of its tungsten specification rather than its daylight specification. That means it will expose the film as 160 rather than 100 asa.
In the latter type of camera, as you describe, there is no straightforward way to get the camera to expose 100d at 100 asa rather than 160 asa. All you can do is a similar trick to exposing 64t in such cameras. You take a reading, then correct the reading by opening up the aperture by 2/3rds of a stop on manual. Or you could have the film push processed by that amount ...

[richard p. t.]

This question has been answered before but it is regarding how to expose E100D when using a simple S8 camera that expects only ASA 160 and ASA 40 carts and does not push the filter out when using a daylight cartridge like the 100D cartridge. If using a camera that pushes the filter out the solution is simple:The camera reads the cart as 160/100 just put the filter in place then the daylight cart pushes the filter out and the camera meters the exposure at EI 100. But how do you correct for daylight 100D when using a camera that does not push the filter out? The camera will read 100D as 160ASA with no filter in place and underexpose the film.

Yes, that is indeed a real problem. There are really two types of 40/160 cameras - those that are also 25/100 daylight speed cameras and those that aren't. With the former, you are right: do nothing. Indeed with the former it is wrong to follow the advice that says to switch the filter out. With these cameras it if you use a filter switch or key to switch out the filter then the camera will read the asa notch in terms of its tungsten specification rather than its daylight specification. That means it will expose the film as 160 rather than 100 asa.
In the latter type of camera, as you describe, there is no straightforward way to get the camera to expose 100d at 100 asa rather than 160 asa. All you can do is a similar trick to exposing 64t in such cameras. You take a reading, then correct the reading by opening up the aperture by 2/3rds of a stop on manual. Or you could have the film push processed by that amount ...

[richard p. t.]

As for shooting 100d in your modified Minolta 601, if, as I presume, the modification has globally shifted the auto exposure on the camera by +2/3rds of a stop, then if the minolta 601 is ordinarily capable of exposing 100d as 100 asa, then it will expose it now as though it is 160 asa. My advice would be to shoot the 100d in your R10, and just squeeze off a few feet in the Minolta on one roll before you get it processed just to confirm what it is doing.

[sooper8fan]

........My advice would be to shoot the 100d in your R10, and just squeeze off a few feet in the Minolta on one roll before you get it processed just to confirm what it is doing.

I'm using the carts today, woohoo!! For the most part I will be using the 100D in my Nikon R10....the main reason I was curious about how to expose the Minolta with the 100D is because the Minolta has the intervalometer and I'd like to do a couple timelapse shots.

THE BIG QUESTION FOR TODAY:
In theory, if I've already done the mod to my Minolta, and I'm planning to shoot the 100D in manual exposure mode, should I overexpose or underexpose what the meter on the camera is telling me?

Thank you guys....you're all always very helpful!

-seth

[sooper8fan]

......There are really two types of 40/160 cameras - those that are also 25/100 daylight speed cameras and those that aren't. With the former, you are right: do nothing. Indeed with the former it is wrong to follow the advice that says to switch the filter out. With these cameras it if you use a filter switch or key to switch out the filter then the camera will read the asa notch in terms of its tungsten specification rather than its daylight specification....

Ok, so you're saying that with my Minolta, I should leave the filter switch on the "lightbulb" setting and the cartridge will automatically push it out of the way? Do I need to use my 85B filter on the lens or not?

-seth

[richard p. t.]

Ok, so you're saying that with my Minolta, I should leave the filter switch on the "lightbulb" setting and the cartridge will automatically push it out of the way? Do I need to use my 85B filter on the lens or not?

-seth

Hi Seth,
actually the oposite of that. If you had an unmodified minolta 601 and if (as I am assuming from the super 8 database) that such a camera is indeed ordinarily capable of shooting 100d (ie it is a 25/40 and 100/160 camera), then the correct thing to do is leave the filter switch in the daylight position. Yes, the daylight position is the '85 filter in' position. However it is also the '100 asa' positon. The filter notch reader will then 'de-select' the 85 filter (ie switch it back 'out' automatically) but leave the asa at 100. That is how these cameras work and it is also how they were capable of shooting both 100 daylight and 160 TYPE-G cartridges, both of which do not require the use of an 85 filter.
As for compensating in manual, well your minolta has been modified such that what should be read as 40 asa is read as 64 asa. Assuming the modification works globally (ie when the little asa notch pin is both pushed in as in 40 asa and when it is pushed out as in 160 asa), then where your camera would have worked correctly with 100 asa daylight film, it will now expose it as 160 asa. That is 2/3rds of a stop less exposure. So here is what to do:
- leave your filter switch on daylight. On the daylight setting the correction you are needing to make is 2/3rds of a stop. If you had it on Bulb rather than Daylight, then the correction would be 2/3rds plus a further 2/3rds, so 1 and 1/3rd stop in total. So don't do that.
- do not attach an 85 filter to the lens. An 85 (oragneish) filter is designed to 'warm up' cool daylight so it is correct for film needing tungsten coloured light. You never want to do that for daylight film such as 100d. The corresponding colour correction filter for daylight film is blueish and called an 80 filter. This cools down warm tungsten light for daylight stock. But that isn't what you are doing. So no filters!
- Take a reading with the camera on auto.
- Correct the reading by OPENING UP the aperture by 2/3rds of a stop. So, for example, if on auto the meter indicated f8, then set the aperture to f5.6 and 1/3rd. If it said f22, open it up to f16 and 1/3rd. If it said f11 and a half, then open it up to just a tad under f11. Get the idea?
There were a few 'IFs' in the above, so don't shoot a lot of film this way until you have confirmed them by processing a bit. So do the time lapse by all means, but shoot the rest of the rolll in your other camera.
cheers,
richard

[sooper8fan]

Hi Seth,
actually the oposite of that. If you had an unmodified minolta 601 and if (as I am assuming from the super 8 database) that such a camera is indeed ordinarily capable of shooting 100d (ie it is a 25/40 and 100/160 camera), then the correct thing to do is leave the filter switch in the daylight position. Yes, the daylight position is the '85 filter in' position. However it is also the '100 asa' positon. The filter notch reader will then 'de-select' the 85 filter (ie switch it back 'out' automatically) but leave the asa at 100. That is how these cameras work and it is also how they were capable of shooting both 100 daylight and 160 TYPE-G cartridges, both of which do not require the use of an 85 filter.
As for compensating in manual, well your minolta has been modified such that what should be read as 40 asa is read as 64 asa. Assuming the modification works globally (ie when the little asa notch pin is both pushed in as in 40 asa and when it is pushed out as in 160 asa), then where your camera would have worked correctly with 100 asa daylight film, it will now expose it as 160 asa. That is 2/3rds of a stop less exposure. So here is what to do:
- leave your filter switch on daylight. On the daylight setting the correction you are needing to make is 2/3rds of a stop. If you had it on Bulb rather than Daylight, then the correction would be 2/3rds plus a further 2/3rds, so 1 and 1/3rd stop in total. So don't do that.
- do not attach an 85 filter to the lens. An 85 (oragneish) filter is designed to 'warm up' cool daylight so it is correct for film needing tungsten coloured light. You never want to do that for daylight film such as 100d. The corresponding colour correction filter for daylight film is blueish and called an 80 filter. This cools down warm tungsten light for daylight stock. But that isn't what you are doing. So no filters!
- Take a reading with the camera on auto.
- Correct the reading by OPENING UP the aperture by 2/3rds of a stop. So, for example, if on auto the meter indicated f8, then set the aperture to f5.6 and 1/3rd. If it said f22, open it up to f16 and 1/3rd. If it said f11 and a half, then open it up to just a tad under f11. Get the idea?
There were a few 'IFs' in the above, so don't shoot a lot of film this way until you have confirmed them by processing a bit. So do the time lapse by all means, but shoot the rest of the rolll in your other camera.
cheers,
richard

Thanks so much for your in-depth explanation. I didn't shoot as much yesterday as I was hoping to, but I'm glad I didn't. After reading your post now, I'll be able to rethink what I'm doing and keeping my fingers crossed the whole time, haha!

Thanks again, I appreciate you taking the time to help me out. Don't be surprised if I have another question Have a great weekend!

-seth