If there is anyone out there who has any idea whether or not it is possible to correct colour temperature balance in the E-6 process when using a home developing tank? I'd be extremely grateful for advice.
My problem is that after years of shooting tungsten-balanced Super 8 stock, my first time using the new Kodak daylight-balanced Ektachrome 100 Super 8 film resulted in the schoolboy error of forgetting to remove the built-in 85 filter to correct tungsten balanced film to daylight colour temperature. Consequently the film is going to come out looking orange unless I can correct the col temperature in processing.
The intention for the footage shot was to have natural looking colours. I have consulted Tetenal and Kodak manuals, both of which suggest using sodium hydroxide and sulphuric acid, both of which sound pretty scary to handle and would presumably render my E-6 kit useless for future processing at the standard colour temperature.
Anyone out there with some experience of experiments like this kind enough to help?
Colour correction/compensation when handprocessing E-6
Moderator: Andreas Wideroe
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Re: Colour correction/compensation when handprocessing E-6
How certain are you that the camera you used doesn't have a filter notch pin? Having a filter notch pin means the camera would have automatically removed the internal colour correction filter.
As for tweaking the e6, I have never done it. I think it would require quite a bit of experimentation to work out something even remotely adequate - quite a bit of investment in money to attempt to salvage one roll of film.
cheers,
richard
As for tweaking the e6, I have never done it. I think it would require quite a bit of experimentation to work out something even remotely adequate - quite a bit of investment in money to attempt to salvage one roll of film.
cheers,
richard
I run Nano Lab - Australia's super8 ektachrome processing service
- visit nanolab.com.au
richard@nanolab.com.au
- visit nanolab.com.au
richard@nanolab.com.au
Re: Colour correction/compensation when handprocessing E-6
I have tweaked E6 movie film just once.
Back in the old Ektachrome 160 days, I shot two roles which were outdated. I hand processed one and it came out shifted towards the red/pink a bit too much. I simply layed off the colour developer, if memory serves (this was around 10 years ago) I reduced the colour developer time by 15%. The result was near perfect.
So it can be done, at least to effectively "desaturate".
Back in the old Ektachrome 160 days, I shot two roles which were outdated. I hand processed one and it came out shifted towards the red/pink a bit too much. I simply layed off the colour developer, if memory serves (this was around 10 years ago) I reduced the colour developer time by 15%. The result was near perfect.
So it can be done, at least to effectively "desaturate".
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Re: Colour correction/compensation when handprocessing E-6
Jobo has a ph correction kit to adjust colorcast in E6 processing. Find the instructions somewhere on line. http://www.jobo-usa.com ? If it works.
I doubt you can correct a strong cast like from a 85 filter.
Hmm, you would need to use archive.org for getting to the instructions:
http://web.archive.org/web/200708291216 ... index.html
I doubt you can correct a strong cast like from a 85 filter.
Hmm, you would need to use archive.org for getting to the instructions:
http://web.archive.org/web/200708291216 ... index.html
Kind regards,
André
André
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Re: Colour correction/compensation when handprocessing E-6
The thing is by using ph adjustment you can only shift colour in the e6 process along a particular colour axis. With Kodak film, that axis is blue-magenta to yellow-green. Increasing ph takes you to yellow-green and decreasing to blue-magenta. You want to increase blue, but trying to increase blue with ph adjustment is going to create a magenta cast. You can't escape that.
cheers,
richard
cheers,
richard
I run Nano Lab - Australia's super8 ektachrome processing service
- visit nanolab.com.au
richard@nanolab.com.au
- visit nanolab.com.au
richard@nanolab.com.au