developing Kodak Tri-X 7266 in negative - ?

[mr_x]

Hi,

i have some super8 Tri-X footage i want to come out in a negative effect, like, black sky and white trees for a daylit shot? i can't easily find someone who will do this for me, so i thought i'd have a go at doing it myself?

a) what chemicals do i need, please?

b) what must i do to prevent the film turning 'reversal' during processing?

c) can i 'push' the process to give the film greater contrast?

i have a Lomo developing tank - - but that's about all, at the moment.

thanks,

Ric

[themagickite]

nanolab offers cross processing of tri-x

http://www.nanolab.com.au/processing.htm

[mr_x]

nanolab offers cross processing of tri-x

http://www.nanolab.com.au/processing.htm

thanks - this looks cool: but i am based in London - postage costs are going to be significant?

R

[themagickite]

you could email Richard (nanolab) and ask how he does it.

[mr_x]

you could email Richard (nanolab) and ask how he does it.

thanks - i have indeed done this, and Richard has given me excellent guidance!

[ at last i get to use the Lomo ... 8O ]



Ric

[Justin Lovell]

Some samples of tri-x cross processed on my website. Under "frame discreet" in "news".

[mr_x]

Some samples of tri-x cross processed on my website. Under "frame discreet" in "news".

very nice!

thanks Jusetan!

Ric

[steve hyde]

Hi,

i have some super8 Tri-X footage i want to come out in a negative effect, like, black sky and white trees for a daylit shot? i can't easily find someone who will do this for me, so i thought i'd have a go at doing it myself?

a) what chemicals do i need, please?

b) what must i do to prevent the film turning 'reversal' during processing?

c) can i 'push' the process to give the film greater contrast?

i have a Lomo developing tank - - but that's about all, at the moment.

thanks,

Ric

...how will you be showing the footage? Is this an analog projection or will you transfer to digital? If digital, you can convert to negative with a "filter". If you have a Lomo Tank and want to go that route, just use D76, which is a common Kodak BW developer. When you shoot the film overexpose the film by up to a stop. You will want to try different tests.
It won't turn to reversal unless you use a "bleach" - Bleach is hard to find by the way so good thing you want negative.

It's easy, but takes some experimentation. have fun.

To convert a positive image to negative digitally, just "invert" the image.

here is one I did in a Lomo as negative then had transfered as positive.
http://allbuiltin.com/clients/hyde/film_D76.html

Steve

[mr_x]

...how will you be showing the footage? Is this an analog projection or will you transfer to digital? If digital, you can convert to negative with a "filter". If you have a Lomo Tank and want to go that route, just use D76, which is a common Kodak BW developer. When you shoot the film overexpose the film by up to a stop. You will want to try different tests.
It won't turn to reversal unless you use a "bleach" - Bleach is hard to find by the way so good thing you want negative.

It's easy, but takes some experimentation. have fun.

To convert a positive image to negative digitally, just "invert" the image.

here is one I did in a Lomo as negative then had transfered as positive.
http://allbuiltin.com/clients/hyde/film_D76.html. Steve

that's a groove!

it will be the Lomo - i need the footage to re-film onto other footage ~ off the screen @ 18fps ~ then transfer the double exposure to dv, aerial transfer

how do i 'push' - is it by giving the developer extra time in the tank, please?

thanks,

R

[steve hyde]

...a number of different ways to "push".

stronger developing solution - longer time in the solution - rate your 7266 at 125, 100 when you shoot it. I recommend a combination of both especially if you like high contrast and grain. My example is 7265 shot at EI 64 and then developed in D76 / LOMO / for 30 mins with no agitation. My hope was to overdevelop the film to create a halation effect, but the new film are designed to resist halation. I say don't worry about overdeveloping. Under developing is more of a risk..

Steve

[mr_x]

thanks Steve -

can't beat real film - even on digital media: base material photographic emulsion every time!

Ric

[mr_x]

here's something i made a couple of years ago - Super8, Nizo S800, in-camera edit approach with solarisation

http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=X7KLb3xbFX4

[mr_x]

...a number of different ways to "push".

stronger developing solution - longer time in the solution - rate your 7266 at 125, 100 when you shoot it. I recommend a combination of both especially if you like high contrast and grain. My example is 7265 shot at EI 64 and then developed in D76 / LOMO / for 30 mins with no agitation. My hope was to overdevelop the film to create a halation effect, but the new film are designed to resist halation. I say don't worry about overdeveloping. Under developing is more of a risk..

Steve

do i need thermostats for this, please - to keep the film at an even (hot) temperature?

sorry about all these questions but i am rather keen not to total the footage, if i can help it?

maybe i should shoot a trial reel of b/w first, though?

:?:

[ccortez]

You don't need B/W to be hot -- that's for color. For B/W chemistry, room temp (68-72 F) will do. I use a thermometer to make sure the water isn't too hot or cold, but B/W is forgiving of temperature over/under.

[mr_x]

You don't need B/W to be hot -- that's for color. For B/W chemistry, room temp (68-72 F) will do. I use a thermometer to make sure the water isn't too hot or cold, but B/W is forgiving of temperature over/under.

this is kool! - many thanks for the info ;)

Ric