64 ASA and the Nizo
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64 ASA and the Nizo
Can someone clear this up? My nizo 561 manual says it reads film from 40 asa to 160 asa but I've since read online that this means ONLY 40 asa OR 160 asa, not anywhere in between - which kinda discounts...say 64 asa! - which would be a pain, all things considered.
thanks,
matt :?
thanks,
matt :?
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Re: 64 ASA and the Nizo
Thirty years later, there's no guarantee any of these cameras read anything accurately. Shoot some tests and find out about your camera. Shoot the same thing three times; once at the stop it indicates, once one stop under, once one stop over. Finish the roll in relatively low light wide open, and you can't go wrong.comradejones wrote:Can someone clear this up? My nizo 561 manual says it reads film from 40 asa to 160 asa but I've since read online that this means ONLY 40 asa OR 160 asa, not anywhere in between - which kinda discounts...say 64 asa! - which would be a pain, all things considered.
thanks,
matt :?
Mitch
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That would be great but there's this from my Nizo 801 manual -
801, 561 and 481's
artificial light color film - 13 t0 23 DIN (16 to 160 ASA)
daylight color fim - 11 to 21 DIN (10 to 100 ASA)
b/w - 11 to 21 DIN (10 to 100 ASA)
...but I'm sure I've heard of people shooting vision 200 using the internal meter with great results...
matt :?
801, 561 and 481's
artificial light color film - 13 t0 23 DIN (16 to 160 ASA)
daylight color fim - 11 to 21 DIN (10 to 100 ASA)
b/w - 11 to 21 DIN (10 to 100 ASA)
...but I'm sure I've heard of people shooting vision 200 using the internal meter with great results...
matt :?
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As bulion points out, you are correct in your thinking.T-Scan wrote:No, but I'm thinking the notching system may include more than 40/160. I don't have the manual but remember reading somewhere that Nizo's read up to 640ASA.
However, and again -
Thirty years later, there's no guarantee any of these cameras will read anything accurately.
It's also worth noting that "dead on" exposure is in fact wholly a matter of personal preference. It's always best to shoot some tests.
Mitch
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http://photography.about.com/library/gl ... ef_asa.htmT-Scan wrote:It's also worth noting that "dead on" exposure is in fact wholly a matter of personal preference.
1/3rd over or under is 1/3rd over or under... even if it's the look your going for.
"The original ASA (American Standards Association) film speeds came out of work by Kodak on the practical measurement of film speeds in the 1940s. A long process of practical tests with groups of observers evaluating prints led to the conclusion that the minimum practical exposure for the deepest shadows was when the toe of the curve had a gradient one third of that over the whole useable part of the exposure curve - again defined on a basis of measurements and practical tests."
God did not evaluate these prints - "groups of observers" did. You are not required by natural or man-made law to agree with their conclusion.
http://photography.about.com/library/gl ... mspeed.htm
"As a scientifically determined property of a film, the film speed cannot be altered in any way. What is of practical significance to photographers is not the film speed, but the exposure index (EI) which represents the sensitivity of the film to light under particular conditions of development. It is perhaps unfortunate that the term film speed was used for the scientific measure, often leading to considerable confusion among photographers."
I'm a big fan of practical significance.
http://www.minoxlab.com/Don_Krehbiel/mpl/dkasa.htm
"Within limits, "film speed" is an individual value and should be the result of testing with one's own equipment and procedures. Photographers may have widely varying ASA settings for their favorite films, sometimes depending on the equipment being used. Kodachrome 64 is often exposed at ISO 80, and Tri-X, which is rated at ISO 400, is frequently exposed at 320 or even 200. The variability can often be attributed to individual preference or even intentional light meter calibration deviation (but that's another story),
ASA, ISO, DIN
Throughout the history of photography, there have been many rating systems; Weston , Kodak , Scheiner (American or European). There have been many attempts to classify "film speed", even though there is no single way to do so. The objective is to provide the photographer a way to estimate the exposure necessary to achieve the desired negative or transparency. The problem is that film emulsions and developers have widely varying characteristics, making comparison quite complex."
It's worth repeating - "The objective is to provide the photographer a way to estimate the exposure necessary to achieve the desired negative or transparency."
"the look your [sic] going for" is the only thing that matters.
Mitch