Budget 70DR

[studiocarter]

with 1-inch f/2.5 universal focus lens
best focus 33'
f/number then Near Dist.: f/2.5 17' f/2.8 15' f/4 12' f/5.6 10' f/8 7' 9" f/11 6' 2" f/16 4' 5" f/22 3' 4" f/32 2' 4"

[Roel]

I finally received my filmo 70DR and it looks like it is in good condition! (Only the screwhandle for turning the filmcounter was broken. Perhaps it can be purchased somewhere.. )
Want to try the camera asap.

A quick question to the filmo experts on this subject.

- What are the shutter speeds for the camera. I know 16-speed is 1/28. Can anybody tell me what the higher speeds need for shutterspeeds?

- Filming with K40. (Do) I need a screw-on lensfilter for conversion to daylight? That would mean i need 3 filters for the 3 lenses! It seems that the filmo needs screw on filter and does not have some kind of slot for a filter between lens and film?!?

Thanks, Roel

[audadvnc]

I finally received my filmo 70DR and it looks like it is in good condition!

Welcome to the ranks of the Filmo Owners Club. And being European you get extra points, as the Filmo isn't as common across the pond as it is here in the good ol' USA.

- What are the shutter speeds for the camera. I know 16-speed is 1/28. Can anybody tell me what the higher speeds need for shutterspeeds?

Seems to me the shutter angle on a Filmo is around 210 degrees, so your shutter speed seems in the ballpark. Generally I figure for 180 degrees and don't sweat the difference. So 24fps would be about 1/50 second.

- Filming with K40. (Do) I need a screw-on lensfilter for conversion to daylight? That would mean i need 3 filters for the 3 lenses! It seems that the filmo needs screw on filter and does not have some kind of slot for a filter between lens and film?!?

Some lenses have screw-on filter holders, others don't. Some Filmo DR's have aftermarket filter slots machined into the turret mount. I've found that you can fit a 3/4" circlip into the turret mount opening to the gate that will hold a filter nicely and doesn't require several different filters for your lenses. For K40 you'd use a standard 85 filter, for Ektachrome an 85B, for negative stock either will suffice.

[steve hyde]

I finally received my filmo 70DR and it looks like it is in good condition! (Only the screwhandle for turning the filmcounter was broken. Perhaps it can be purchased somewhere.. )
Want to try the camera asap.

A quick question to the filmo experts on this subject.

- What are the shutter speeds for the camera. I know 16-speed is 1/28. Can anybody tell me what the higher speeds need for shutterspeeds?

- Filming with K40. (Do) I need a screw-on lensfilter for conversion to daylight? That would mean i need 3 filters for the 3 lenses! It seems that the filmo needs screw on filter and does not have some kind of slot for a filter between lens and film?!?

Thanks, Roel

yeah - when shooting at 24fps I always meter for 1/50th. . RE: filters - they can be expensive. One cheap alternative is to get a piece of 85 amber gell and cut and tape to the lens. This may sound sketchy, but it is done all the time for different fiter effects. Just make two small loops of tape and stick them to the side of your lens then place the gell in front of the lens and roll the tape up until it is flush against the front of the lens.

If you really want to get creative you can fashion cut outs for areas within your composition that you want to have blue light..

Steve

[Roel]

Thanks to Robert and Steve for your quick replies!

I have seen the opening in the turrent opening to the gate. It even looks like you can screw somethingg in there. Does this have have some kind of function? Anyhow, if I can find some kind of flexable filter material that can be cut, I think indeed that would be a nice please to put the filter.

Or just use black & White film and not spend money on filters for a filmtype (K40) that won't be around for long anymore. Perhaps I will try Fuji Cinevia or Ektachrome 100D. Processing will be somewhat more expensive but I want have to buy/fiddle with some kind of filter.

So 24-speed will need s shutter speed of 1/50th. Thanks, I will try that.

Does anyone know where I could try the buy the metal filmcounter knob that was broken during transport? It is the part on the filmcounter which allows you to turn the counter to '000'.

Thanks again guys and greetings from Holland! [/quote]

[audadvnc]

I have seen the opening in the turrent opening to the gate. It even looks like you can screw something in there. Does this have have some kind of function?

No, those are not screw threads, rather light trap threads to avoid reflections.

Anyhow, if I can find some kind of flexable filter material that can be cut, I think indeed that would be a nice please to put the filter.

Kodak Wratten Filters 85 or 85B will fit your needs

Or just use black & White film and not spend money on filters for a filmtype (K40) that won't be around for long anymore.

Filters are good for more than just color correction and balancing tungsten film for outdoor shoots. Try shooting b&w with orange, red, or green filters for various different looks. For instance, a clear sky will come out almost black with a deep red filter.

So 24-speed will need s shutter speed of 1/50th. Thanks, I will try that.

The term is 24 Frames Per Second, or 24 fps.

Does anyone know where I could try the buy the metal filmcounter knob that was broken during transport? It is the part on the filmcounter which allows you to turn the counter to '000'.

Check with Alan Gordon in Hollywood or that company in Florida that sells all the Mitchells and Filmos on eBay - can't remember their name at present.

[steve hyde]

..two more questions on the Filmo DR:

How does one disengage the spring for hand-cranked shooting?

Also - how does one use the critical focusing port?

Thanks in advance...

Steve

[audadvnc]

The Filmo mechanism is designed to allow for unlimited forward hand- or electric motor driven cranking. But the spring motor does engage in reverse cranking, so you'll have to run the spring down and only be able to rewind 30 seconds for a full rewind crank.

The critical focussing port is factory aligned to the film plane. To use the focussing port you turn the turret so the taking lens is 180 degrees away from the gate and covers the focussing port. You'll see a small portion of the frame and focus in on your subject, then rotate the lens back into position and shoot.

Note: about half the Filmos I've seen have had an out-of-alignment focussing port. If anyone is up on the alignment procedure I'd be interested in learning it.

[Roel]

Thanks for all the advice Robert. I've decided to start with plus-x and have it developed by Reversal Lab here in Holland.

BTW, '16-speed' came out of the manual.

Does anyone know where I could try the buy the metal filmcounter knob that was broken during transport? It is the part on the filmcounter which allows you to turn the counter to '000'.

Check with Alan Gordon in Hollywood or that company in Florida that sells all the Mitchells and Filmos on eBay - can't remember their name at present.[/quote]
Will try to conact them and see if they have this part. Probably could do without. I can rotate it with some tools if necessary.

So the critical focusser is of by 50% of the camera's. Don't you need some kind of eyecup for this to work best.

Thanks again. Will follow this topic closely for all the informative content.

Roel

[steve hyde]

Thanks for all the advice Robert. I've decided to start with plus-x and have it developed by Reversal Lab here in Holland.

BTW, '16-speed' came out of the manual.

Does anyone know where I could try the buy the metal filmcounter knob that was broken during transport? It is the part on the filmcounter which allows you to turn the counter to '000'.

Check with Alan Gordon in Hollywood or that company in Florida that sells all the Mitchells and Filmos on eBay - can't remember their name at present.

Will try to conact them and see if they have this part. Probably could do without. I can rotate it with some tools if necessary.

So the critical focusser is of by 50% of the camera's. Don't you need some kind of eyecup for this to work best.

Thanks again. Will follow this topic closely for all the informative content.

Roel

I bought my Filmo from ICE MTE in Florida.

[audadvnc]

That's the gang - I believe they purchased Alan Gordon's Filmo parts & stock.

[flatwood]

Now, I'm hoping that this lense that I just won on ebay will fit my $26 DR. Ive been trying to take your advice, Nigel, but no Angineaux reflex lenses have come up lately.



This one was $99.50 and is in keeping with my quest to put the rig together for under $200. Fingers crossed!!!

[egdinger]

What lens is that? I did see a filmo on ebay with a pan cinor on it, quite a ungainly thing that was. But it could be done.

[flatwood]

The description swiped from ebay is:

<i>BOLEX BERTHIOT PAN CINOR 25-100MM 3.4 TO F22 C-MOUNT ZOOM MOVIE LENS IN EXCELLENT CONDITION, TURNS ALL NON REFELX CAMERAS INTO A REFLEX CAMERA. COMES WITH FRONT LENS CAP & 62MM LENS SHADE. THE GLASS IS CLEAN, FREE OF SCRATCHES, SEPERATION, FUNGUS, FITS MOST 16MM MOVIE CAMERAS.</i>

Looks like the same lens. I wonder if the finder rotates.

[audadvnc]

I've owned a couple of Som Berthiot Pan Cinor 17-85 lenses, and been happy with their performance on Filmo cameras. The one you have is one of the older ones (later lenses were all black and had a right angle dogleg, I believe). The main issue I had with my older one was a yellowing of the image, perhaps caused by ageing of the lens cement, or perhaps by radioactive degradation of some of the glass elements. If the former, you can sometimes lessen the yellowing by pointing the lens directly at the sun for a few hours to bleach out the cement. Be careful not to burn or melt anything behind the lens, though.