what double 8 and double super 8 film do you wish existed?

[slashmaster]

I just got my two 100' roll of Double 8 kahl UT21 back from the lab.
I am sure the original source is kodak 7285(ektachrome 100D) after I saw the result of the projection.
now, I am planning to order 16mm ut18 stock from kahl ,but I can't find any video online to show the result. is there anyone had used this stock? I would like to make sure that the perforate work is correct with this film before I order it.

Nice! So the Kahl UT21 amplifies colors right? Makes grass look a lot greener than it actually was? If so it sounds like it would be ektachrome 100d. Interesting you got your hands on some! So you didn't have to cut the 100 foot double super 8 into smaller rolls? What camera are you using, a Bolex double super 8?

[kontrabass888]

I just got my two 100' roll of Double 8 kahl UT21 back from the lab.
I am sure the original source is kodak 7285(ektachrome 100D) after I saw the result of the projection.
now, I am planning to order 16mm ut18 stock from kahl ,but I can't find any video online to show the result. is there anyone had used this stock? I would like to make sure that the perforate work is correct with this film before I order it.

Nice! So the Kahl UT21 amplifies colors right? Makes grass look a lot greener than it actually was? If so it sounds like it would be ektachrome 100d. Interesting you got your hands on some! So you didn't have to cut the 100 foot double super 8 into smaller rolls? What camera are you using, a Bolex double super 8?

I have a Bolex H8 rex 4 with 3 prime lenses. It is a double 8 camera not DS8 version.
The result is as good as the super 8 cartridge which is 25% larger than regular 8mm film. same color, same character,
and even a little bit sharper than super 8 with zoom lens(maybe it is just the feeling).
the most important point is that it can continue shoot for 5 min without stop with a motor driver, 10min shooting time for each roll of 100' film .
However, I still miss the looking of 16mm film, I had used some K40 films with a spring drive Beaulieu r16 before kodak stop to processing them.
The only thing I don't like Beaulieu R16 is the pain of loading film, on Bolex, it is much easier.
Now I decided to use 16mm film again for recording family and life with my Bolex h16 cameras.
But as I remember that there are someone talking about the unsteady registration of UT-18 DS 8 film.
So, before I order the film, I would like to make sure that the UT-18 16mm film is not unsteady as the UT-18 DS8 stock.

[slashmaster]

I just got my two 100' roll of Double 8 kahl UT21 back from the lab.
I am sure the original source is kodak 7285(ektachrome 100D) after I saw the result of the projection.
now, I am planning to order 16mm ut18 stock from kahl ,but I can't find any video online to show the result. is there anyone had used this stock? I would like to make sure that the perforate work is correct with this film before I order it.

Nice! So the Kahl UT21 amplifies colors right? Makes grass look a lot greener than it actually was? If so it sounds like it would be ektachrome 100d. Interesting you got your hands on some! So you didn't have to cut the 100 foot double super 8 into smaller rolls? What camera are you using, a Bolex double super 8?

I have a Bolex H8 rex 4 with 3 prime lenses. It is a double 8 camera not DS8 version.
The result is as good as the super 8 cartridge which is 25% larger than regular 8mm film. same color, same character,
and even a little bit sharper than super 8 with zoom lens(maybe it is just the feeling).
the most important point is that it can continue shoot for 5 min without stop with a motor driver, 10min shooting time for each roll of 100' film .
However, I still miss the looking of 16mm film, I had used some K40 films with a spring drive Beaulieu r16 before kodak stop to processing them.
The only thing I don't like Beaulieu R16 is the pain of loading film, on Bolex, it is much easier.
Now I decided to use 16mm film again for recording family and life with my Bolex h16 cameras.
But as I remember that there are someone talking about the unsteady registration of UT-18 DS 8 film.
So, before I order the film, I would like to make sure that the UT-18 16mm film is not unsteady as the UT-18 DS8 stock.

Ooops, thought you were talking about double super 8. But yes, a zoom lens reduces resolution by at least 15% along with some contrast of what it would be for the same quality of a prime lens. Also having a reflex camera going through a prism to the viewfinder reduces light, contrast and resolution. Also having a camera with the v shaped iris reduces resolution and contrast. So if you have yourself a non reflex with a prime lens and the manual f-stop ring you get the best quality image. A super 8 camera like that is hard to find, I'm going to be trying to convert one into a c-mount for this reason.

You should count how many frames from the claw on the projector that the aperture is. If it's the same as the camera it doesn't matter so much that the sprocket hole spacing isn't exact.

[kontrabass888]

Ooops, thought you were talking about double super 8. But yes, a zoom lens reduces resolution by at least 15% along with some contrast of what it would be for the same quality of a prime lens. Also having a reflex camera going through a prism to the viewfinder reduces light, contrast and resolution. Also having a camera with the v shaped iris reduces resolution and contrast. So if you have yourself a non reflex with a prime lens and the manual f-stop ring you get the best quality image. A super 8 camera like that is hard to find, I'm going to be trying to convert one into a c-mount for this reason.

You should count how many frames from the claw on the projector that the aperture is. If it's the same as the camera it doesn't matter so much that the sprocket hole spacing isn't exact.

I sold 2 of my H8 non reflex cameras this spring and kept the reflex model.
Kern Switar RX prime lenses which could preset the aperture, are much easier to use than other C mount prime lenses.

which super 8 camera are you going to convert into C-mount?

[slashmaster]

Ooops, thought you were talking about double super 8. But yes, a zoom lens reduces resolution by at least 15% along with some contrast of what it would be for the same quality of a prime lens. Also having a reflex camera going through a prism to the viewfinder reduces light, contrast and resolution. Also having a camera with the v shaped iris reduces resolution and contrast. So if you have yourself a non reflex with a prime lens and the manual f-stop ring you get the best quality image. A super 8 camera like that is hard to find, I'm going to be trying to convert one into a c-mount for this reason.

You should count how many frames from the claw on the projector that the aperture is. If it's the same as the camera it doesn't matter so much that the sprocket hole spacing isn't exact.

I sold 2 of my H8 non reflex cameras this spring and kept the reflex model.
Kern Switar RX prime lenses which could preset the aperture, are much easier to use than other C mount prime lenses.

which super 8 camera are you going to convert into C-mount?

I think the reflex ones are worth more but I prefer the non reflex ones. I think the reflex ones are easier to take the front cover off though. I'm going to try to convert this one someday http://www.super8data.com/database/came ... s_802b.htm I pulled one of these among other things from a dumpster where basically all of a mans possessions were put when he died. It already has a separate viewfinder. Oh, by the way, having the film go through a sprocket then loop just before and after the gate gives better registration than what a super 8 cartridge normally gives. So I might abandon the Argus idea if I can find a non reflex bolex h8 to convert to a double super 8. Gotta make sure my machining skills are up to the task though.

[kontrabass888]

Ooops, thought you were talking about double super 8. But yes, a zoom lens reduces resolution by at least 15% along with some contrast of what it would be for the same quality of a prime lens. Also having a reflex camera going through a prism to the viewfinder reduces light, contrast and resolution. Also having a camera with the v shaped iris reduces resolution and contrast. So if you have yourself a non reflex with a prime lens and the manual f-stop ring you get the best quality image. A super 8 camera like that is hard to find, I'm going to be trying to convert one into a c-mount for this reason.

You should count how many frames from the claw on the projector that the aperture is. If it's the same as the camera it doesn't matter so much that the sprocket hole spacing isn't exact.

I sold 2 of my H8 non reflex cameras this spring and kept the reflex model.
Kern Switar RX prime lenses which could preset the aperture, are much easier to use than other C mount prime lenses.

which super 8 camera are you going to convert into C-mount?

I think the reflex ones are worth more but I prefer the non reflex ones. I think the reflex ones are easier to take the front cover off though. I'm going to try to convert this one someday http://www.super8data.com/database/came ... s_802b.htm I pulled one of these among other things from a dumpster where basically all of a mans possessions were put when he died. It already has a separate viewfinder. Oh, by the way, having the film go through a sprocket then loop just before and after the gate gives better registration than what a super 8 cartridge normally gives. So I might abandon the Argus idea if I can find a non reflex bolex h8 to convert to a double super 8. Gotta make sure my machining skills are up to the task though.

I sold 2 faulty non reflelx H8 cameras for about 90 EUR on ebay, so it should be easy cheap to get one without lens. but the non reflex H8 is not with C mount ,but the D mount.
Good luck for your project.

[Mmechanic]

Gigabitfilm 40 and 32

[kontrabass888]

Gigabitfilm 40 and 32

I found their website, looks like they are still producing films and chemistry.
http://www.gigabitfilm.de/html/english/menu.htm

[Mmechanic]

I still have a few kilometers of Gigabitfilm 40 in 16mm, perforated one row, full pitch.
A good perforator service for Double-Eight is needed. I don’t have the money for that.

[wahiba]

FP4, it did once, still have the tin, label and movie. Reversed OK.

I suppose if I ordered enough then they would make me a few reels? Just wonder if they still have the kit, they certainly still have the film.

I just need the right numbers!!!!!!

[Mmechanic]

wahiba, FP 4 as 125 ISO negative film can be replaced by Orwo UN 54, available from Wittner, Germany. That one’s got 100 ISO. See here

I should very much like to see a picture of the carton here, if you would kindly submit. Can’t believe that Ilford sold FP 4 as Double-Eight stock

[aj]

Gigabitfilm 40 and 32

I found their website, looks like they are still producing films and chemistry.
http://www.gigabitfilm.de/html/english/menu.htm

Noticing the poor condition of the website with ancient news and page updates from 2006 you better check before sending money.

[wahiba]

Can’t believe that Ilford sold FP 4 as Double-Eight stock

It was in 1975, and might have been FP3. Last time Iooked I think I still had the tin with the lable. It was a 30m/100' reel. If I find it soon I will certain put up a picture. Most of my 8mm stuff is up in the roof, which is currently undergoing a re-vamp with the intention of sorting the film stuff out.

The name 'Haringey Photographic' rings a bell. I remember I bought the film along with processing chemicals and the Lomo tank. I think I might have bought a 100' of Ferrania colour and chemicals at the same time.

Maybe someone else witha UK bus pass can confirm the Hringey memory?