granfer wrote:Wow, what more can you do with a mobile PHONE?
Can I suggest, with my tongue firmly in my cheek, that Apple turns its mind to making an "App" that will enable us to process Kodachrome by feeding it through the microphone hole and taking it (already dry) out of the loudspeaker hole? Shouild be a doddle!
the iP can certainly technically and with graphic monitoring run a latest technology yet to be made K-14 processing machine.....
Who the heck uses shutter speeds like that??? Not even my old Leica has those whacky shutter speeds? Movie cameras need speeds like 1/30, 1/40, 1/45, etc. if not infinite. Same too with ASA...the WHOLE POINT of having an app is so as NOT to have to take the result and then adjust it in your head for your camera.
Pure crap.
My website - check it out...
http://super8man.filmshooting.com/
super8man wrote:Who the heck uses shutter speeds like that??? Not even my old Leica has those whacky shutter speeds? Movie cameras need speeds like 1/30, 1/40, 1/45, etc. if not infinite. Same too with ASA...the WHOLE POINT of having an app is so as NOT to have to take the result and then adjust it in your head for your camera.
Pure crap.
You're far more likely to find a shutter speed on a super 8 camera of 1/48 second...or 1/54 second - corresponding to 180 and 160 degree shutters at 24fps.
The government says that by 2010 30% of us will be fat....I am merely a trendsetter
A simple adjustment of the software (for a software developer) could easily allow for entering camera parameters and saving as a preset:
1. Shutter angle
2. FPS
3. TStop (any loss due to lens and/or beam splitter, eg. Leicina Special Super8 loses 20% of light to viewfinder)
The rest just follows mathematically.
However an incident light meter is just important than as a reflective light meter. Where do you download the little white dome to put over the camera lens?
carllooper wrote:A simple adjustment of the software (for a software developer) could easily allow for entering camera parameters and saving as a preset:
1. Shutter angle
2. FPS
3. TStop (any loss due to lens and/or beam splitter, eg. Leicina Special Super8 loses 20% of light to viewfinder)
The rest just follows mathematically.
However an incident light meter is just important than as a reflective light meter. Where do you download the little white dome to put over the camera lens?
Carl
It is an easy programming task including filtering the image sensor to a white dome. Funnily enough it is possible to switch between the main cam and face cam RT for separate reading. A clip on dome should be available soon too
There are several other light meter apps avail to...
One is the Sunny 16 and another allows 2 separate spot readings measuring high light and lowest light separately and chose an exposure value ideal somewhere between the 2.
another really fancy light meter for the "i". it is possible to mark 3 different areas to spot measure and the app calculates and suggest the AVR setting. it also takes 3 different snaps to show the result vs the different areas and vs your initial your ISO/shutter speed settings:
I just got back two rolls of film that I shot with my Bolex D8L on a trip to New York City. I used the iPhone Pocket Light Meter app for all of my shots and I'm very happy with the results. Before I left for the trip I compared the light meter app to a light meter that I have had good results with and it was very close. The meter I was comparing it to is a Weston Master V. With the Weston using reflected light I usually open it about one more stop, this helps expose the shaded areas better. I did the same with the light meter app with comparable results. Keep in mind, I'm an amateur making home movies and I did have some x-ray damage that I talked about on another thread:
BAC wrote:I just got back two rolls of film that I shot with my Bolex D8L on a trip to New York City. I used the iPhone Pocket Light Meter app for all of my shots and I'm very happy with the results. Before I left for the trip I compared the light meter app to a light meter that I have had good results with and it was very close. The meter I was comparing it to is a Weston Master V. With the Weston using reflected light I usually open it about one more stop, this helps expose the shaded areas better. I did the same with the light meter app with comparable results. Keep in mind, I'm an amateur making home movies and I did have some x-ray damage that I talked about on another thread:
