Questions on Super8

Post by **wado1942** » Thu Jan 18, 2007 5:51 pm

The 514 will read 64T as 40 if I'm correct which means 2/3rds stop over exposure. That's a little on the high side for reversal but you can compensate it by getting 1 gray card that's 2/3rds stop over 18% (sorry, don't know what it is) let the camera set itself automatically then lock the aperture.

Post by **grogoreo** » Thu Jan 18, 2007 6:13 pm

wado1942 wrote:The 514 will read 64T as 40 if I'm correct which means 2/3rds stop over exposure. That's a little on the high side for reversal but you can compensate it by getting 1 gray card that's 2/3rds stop over 18% (sorry, don't know what it is) let the camera set itself automatically then lock the aperture.

When you mention getting a "gray card", is this a filter of some kind?

I think I will go for a Canon since it seem the Nizo's do go for a lot more and I would rather spend more money on film than a few more features to get me started.

Thanks again,
Greg

Post by **wado1942** » Thu Jan 18, 2007 6:24 pm

No a gray card is just a target you put in front of the camera to set exposure. You see, all light meters automatically set up themselves for 18% gray. So if you use a card that's a little lighter than 18%, the camera will stop down the iris a bit thereby making the exposure correct. BTW, I think it's funny the Nizos sell for more considering the lenses aren't as good as Canons.
Anyways, you have your subject hold the gray card, come up to it and let the iris set itself, then you lock the iris in place and get to your shooting point and start (after the subject drops the card of course). This is a far better way of setting exposure than just letting it run in auto anyway because if the background is brighter than the subject, the subject will be too dark using auto exposure. If the background is too dark then the subject will be too bright. The camera always wants the overall scene to average out to 18% gray so by using a gray card and locking the iris, you'll get correct exposures every time. This also prevents the iris from changing during panning/tilting shots which can be distracting.

Post by **mattias** » Fri Jan 19, 2007 10:53 am

the grey card is a good idea but very inconvenient. a better idea is to aim your camera at the brightest part of your scene, lock to that, and then shoot. or just shoot. built in meters tend to overcompensate for bright backgrounds so you may even get better results with some extra exposure. this is certainly true for backlit scenes, snow and beach scenes, as well as night scenes, but it will not work very well in overcast conditions, which will probably get overexposed. good luck.

/matt

Post by **lastcoyote** » Mon Jan 22, 2007 3:26 am

Yes, on the button side of Canon 514XL, there's a little switch marked "EE LOCK"... when you point at some place and you push and hold that switch. The aperture will lock. I found it very handy myself whenever I want to override the auto exposure.

Only problem is when you want to lock the aperture and play with the zoom and focus at the same time. You will need someone's help.

Or pratice YOGA and use both your feet. :lol:

Post by **eggart** » Mon Jan 22, 2007 4:10 am

For the EE switch I've thought of using velcro to make a latch to lock it with, with a bit glued on the switch, and a strip attached to the camera above it, but I haven't tried it.

Post by **wado1942** » Mon Jan 22, 2007 5:08 am

Why don't you just replace the momentary switch with a locking switch?

Post by **lastcoyote** » Tue Jan 23, 2007 3:23 am

Because that's what I did and broke the first 514XL.. :lol: