sonickel wrote:hello everyone,
1. Have any of you done rotoscoping using Super 8 before?
2. What equipment did you use to draw each frame with? (projector, editor/viewer, other?)
3. What were the pros and cons for each technique?
4. What equipment is the best for the job, in your opinion?
Back around 1981 I did a 30 second spot for a martial arts dojo that used a 10 second rotoscope piece where the karate instructor did his thing and was incorporated into a freeze and dissolve to the dojo's logo.
Most of the spot was actually 16mm,but the rotoscope action was shot on a Canon 1014 with Tri X reversal film.I don't know what the artist used for his table (I wasn't the artist),but I gave him an old projector (if memory serves it was old DeJur instavalometer with single frame capability,the wattage of the lamp was lowered by a rheostat to avoid burning the film.)
The image was rear projected from a mirror onto a translucent rear screen which the artist had built into his table.He basically traced the cells from the frames and painted the colors in.It was gorgeous.I animated his cells on a home built stand which we used a Mitchell 16mm camera for the animation.
For the job of shooting the live action,any reasonably stable super 8 camera will do.I recommend 24fps,unless you're over or undercranking for some effect.A high contrast black and white film stock (which is why we chose Tri X) will work very well as it gives the artist clearly defined lines to trace.All of the animation and art table stands were home built in our spot,though I'm sure there are commenrcial grade stands out there that will work fine.
The technique can be quite beautiful and the motion very lifelike and fluid.The only drawback I can imagine is if you are combining rotoscoped and non rotoscoped animation action and the movement not matching properly.We didn't have that problem though.
For animation,I suggest if you're using 8mm,go with single 8 or DS8 for stability.
