Eumig 881PMA, and Time Exposure

[Lunar07]

In Time Exposure mode (Eumig 881PMA switch set to LT and FPS to 9), auto aperture is disengaged - on my camera at least. Can someone confirm this? Auto aperture does not work with LT mode! And has to be set/locked manually in Normal mode or VT (intervalometer mode) before switching to LT.
When I switch to LT the aperture is 'frozen' in its last setting. The manual states that the aperture should be locked at f/2.8 when a 160ASA cart is used. In this case, the separate light sensor beneath the lens assumes an f/2.8 setting with a 160ASA cart. I suppose with a 40ASA cart, the aperture should be locked at f/1.4 ( two stops more than the f/2.8 ). Can someone confirm this. In this case with a 64T cart one has to lock aperture to between f/1.8-f/2 ?

[Lunar07]

Can someone confirm if Auto Aperture is disengaged when using Time Exposure mode with a Eumig 881PMA?

[BK]

Some Info from Super 8 filmmaker for the 880 PMA if it's any help:

The Automatic-Time Exposure Control (AT-EC) will allow filming of stationary objects in low light situations with film of any speed (ASA). This is how it works. Suppose you're filming exteriors at the Cathedral of Notre dame with K40. You go inside, and the viewfinder tells you there isn't enough light for normal filming. Putting the Eumig on a tripod, you start the AT-EC. If the stained glass windows let in enough light, the camera will run at 9fps, giving each frame an exposure of 1/12 of a second. As the light dims,exposure will be a little longer and when the candles remain to illuminate the great walls, the 880's shutter will stay open for up to 60 seconds on each frame.

It sounds to me that the exposure is controlled by the time the shutter opens rather than the setting of the iris opening, so my understanding that the Auto aperture being "off" is normal. Do some short tests to find out for sure.

Bill

[Alex]

It's not necessary to have the automatic F-stop active because in time-exposure mode the shutter is guided by the photo sensor, not the light meter sensor.

Although the automatic f-stop is "frozen" you can manually change the f-stop to whatever setting you want via the manual exposure control.

I don't like a wide open f-stop for time-exposure, I think the picture has too great of a chance of looking soft and the light sources tend to bloom excessively and can even flare out the overall image a bit.

I generally don't go below F 2.8 even with Kodachrome 40 when I do time-exposures. However, I also don't expect the photo sensor located directly under the lens to be completely accurate because passing lights on cars can cause a wild fluctuation in time exposures times, a cool effect but also not ideal for certain effects.

I manipulate the time-exposure sensor in two ways. One way is I carry a strip of black electricians tape and I use it to cover a portion of the light sensor. This tends to slow down the auto-time exposure setting which in turn compliments the F-2.8 Kodachrome setting with an overall sharper picture and with more dynamic action from longer time exposures.

Many times I'll use an F2.8 - 4 split, 4.0, or 4.0 - 5.6 split, or 5.6 when I want really sharp time-exposure images. To compensate for the smaller f-stop I'll usually not use the 85 filter and partially cover the time-expsoure sensor to increase the time-exposure time.

The second way I manipulate the light sensor is by completely encapsulating the light sensor in darkness and using a variable L.E.D. light source to control the length of time that I want each frame to be exposed.

[Lunar07]

Thanks BK and Alex - I just wanted to be sure that the Auto Aperture is disengaged in Time Exposure mode and nothing wrong with my camera. It looks like it is. This makes the camera more versatile. Regardless of film ASA, one can use this camera in the time exposure mode. The more I use this camera, the more I like it. I may even get a second one :-D
Two questions here, and I am more thinking aloud:
1. I wonder what is the field of view of the photo sensor beneath the lens, and
2. Is there anyway to create a tripod adapter that allows one to thread the camera to the tripod in the usual way instead to the hand grip. I can see there is an empty area all the way back at the bottom of the camera. I may be not a bad idea to drill a tripod thread there. Or even better to glue a tripod shoe with a 1/4" tripod thread.

[Alex]

Thanks BK and Alex -
Two questions here, and I am more thinking aloud:
1. I wonder what is the field of view of the photo sensor beneath the lens,

A simple test is to find subdued light, put the camera on a tripod and on time-exposure so that it trips the shutter once every half a second, then zoom the lens all the the way and see if the exposure time changes. I think you'll find the field of view of the time-exposure matches the lens field of view.

2. Is there anyway to create a tripod adapter that allows one to thread the camera to the tripod in the usual way instead to the hand grip. I can see there is an empty area all the way back at the bottom of the camera. I may be not a bad idea to drill a tripod thread there. Or even better to glue a tripod shoe with a 1/4" tripod thread.

Interesting Idea. I used that area to mount a digital frame counter so that when making those "in camera edit" films I can actually keep a frame accurate film count of how many frames I have shot.

[xeno_basso]

The real disappointment about this camera is that it can't read the new Ektachrome film correctly. Otherwise, this camera shames many with its abilities.
Its nice to hold, has a great flip lever for turning the unit on, an acceptable zoom range (anyone really use 80mm?) and loaded with tricks.
john.

[Lunar07]

The real disappointment about this camera is that it can't read the new Ektachrome film correctly. Otherwise, this camera shames many with its abilities.
Its nice to hold, has a great flip lever for turning the unit on, an acceptable zoom range (anyone really use 80mm?) and loaded with tricks.
john.

I agree it is a disappointment. But nothing is lost here. Fortunately it has a nice Stop mode that allows you to set the aperture manually. ONLY if there was a ( - ) mode (auto closure of aperture by one stop) in addition to the ( + ) mode (auto backlight) that is already there. But the manual Stop mode takes care of the 64T.

[xeno_basso]

I see what you mean. All is not lost

Would you use a hand held meter then to set the aperture? My Gossen Luna Pro has Cine settings. I guess we'd need to know the light loss so we can factor that in on the meter.

Anyone know what this allowance should be?

[biko]

until today i had only the 880 pma. and i like it really.
but now i got the 881(screw-on not clip-on)pma too! (unfortunatly without manual)
would you be so kind and tell me the differences - if there are -
but i guess - its about 1/2kg heavier and takes 6 batteries instead of 5...

thanks in advance
biko

ps do you think there is a chance to modify the lightmeter for the 64asa?

[Alex]

In terms of quality I think the two are identical.

The three biggest differences are 6 batteries instead of five, a more advanced on/off switch design, (the lever behind the handle actually flips all the way up on the 881), and the automatic exposure auto fade lever had a spring added, a wise decision because the 880 camera completely shuts off after fading to black and will never work again until that lever is manually lifted to the up position!

In terms of actual quality, I think they 880 and the 881 are identical, although I have found the 880's time exposure feature to sometimes go wacky, as if there is a circuitry problem.