Splicing Super8...what to use?

[RustyB]

I have a vintage Cine-Kodak Junior Splicer, but would rather keep it boxed up with the camera it came with.

Is it okay to just use Kodak PressTape to splice Super 8, or should I find another splicer to glue the pieces together. I'm not using splices to edit a movie, but just telecine only, so I don't care what they look like on film, I just need them for a reliable transfer through a WorkPrinter XP.

Thanks for any suggetions!

[threeinv]

Presstape splices should work fine to put the film through either a Workprinter or regular projector. I use a Ciro tape splicer which only covers one frame on either side of the splice, and the edge of the tape aligns with the frameline on the film. Kodak Presstapes cover at least 2 frames on either side of the splice (don't remember exactly), and I'm not sure that their edges align with framelines. So, a Presstape splice would be more visible than some other tape splices.

--Derrick

[ccortez]

Thanks for any suggetions!

Get a Bolex cement splicer for R8/S8. You won't be sorry...

...unless you are Lunar07 and loan yours to me. THEN you'll be sorry. ;)

[filmo]

Presstapes throw about 6 frames out of focus, and they make a big clunk through the projector. Do not use them unless you want to draw attention to every cut.

If you're simply using them to join 50 foot reels together, they are probably okay, but I would never use them for editing, not even for a rough cut.

Instead, try Ciro or Wurker tape splices.

[RustyB]

How do you line up the perforations with using Presstape? Do you still need a splicer to hold the film straight while taping the two pieces together?

Sorry for the noob questions! I've got tons!

[threeinv]

Yep. A splicer is necessary to keep the film ends butted up against one another in flat alignment while the Presstape is applied. It would be impossible to keep everything straight if doing it by hand, and why risk running crooked-ly spliced film through the Workprinter? Presstape splicers can be had for very cheap, and often are found thrown in with cameras & used equipment sold on eBay or at yard sales.

I wish I could remember where, but in the last few months I saw that a plastic version of the Ciro tape splicer could be had for $30.00 new. I just checked the Chambless & Urbanski websites and couldn't find it.:?:

--Derrick

[audadvnc]

Eumig made a nice cement splicer that uses a serrated cutting edge for more edge-to-edge surface contact, thus eliminating the need for an overlapping butt splice and its attendent need for emulsion scraping. My guess is that the Eumig splice passes through the projector gate more gracefully than a standard Maier-Hancock style splice which usually shows a jump for a frame or 2 on either side of the splice.

Archivally speaking, you definately want to use a cement splicer. Presstapes and Guillotine tape splices weaken and eventually fail over the years. I just had to resplice a 16mm production with dozens of bad tape splices that gave out in the telecine machine, an expensive place to discover the problem. If you want to play that Super 8 film 20 years from now you'll thank your earlier foresight in using cement splices.

[Angus]

I'm not sure cement splices are better.

My oldest super 8 films are now 19 years old and most of the tape splices are holding up.

When I inherited my grandfather's reg 8mm films they were 21-25 years old and ALL the cement splices had to be respliced. Not a single one survived.

[VideoFred]

I'm very happy with the Fuji tape splicer. To be honest, I have more problems with my old cement splices. I can not remember a tape splice ever fails. They run fine in any projector, too. I do not have 6 out of focus frames with this Fuji splicer. The (perforated) tape is very thin. Agfa has made one, too. Full automatic. But I prefer the Fuji.

But you can tape splice your film by hand too, without any tool.
Scotch tape works fine for this. Just tape the film temporal on a flat surface, something that does not hold the tape too much. Glass is ideal for this. Be shure the sprocket wholes are aligned and the film also. Put the two ends 1 frame over each other, with the sprocket wholes over each other. Make a clean 90°cut with a sharp cutterknife and add some Scotch on it, do not cover the sprocket wholes. The Scotch must have the double width, so you can fold it over to the other side. This way, it makes the slice stronger.

Et voila: you have a very nice splice, it will hold for a very long time.


Fred.

[VideoFred]

Fred goes double :oops:

[Uppsala BildTeknik]

I'm not sure cement splices are better.

My oldest super 8 films are now 19 years old and most of the tape splices are holding up.

When I inherited my grandfather's reg 8mm films they were 21-25 years old and ALL the cement splices had to be respliced. Not a single one survived.

Probably a question about what cement you used and if the spliced were good to begin with, if you scraped off the emulsion enough or something like that.

Good cement splices are the best, old shrunken, rock hard tape splices the worst.

I wonder what kind of splicer made those sick-sack kind of cement splices? Those are HORRIBLE! 8O Thay are visible as hell, they are weak and they grab your cloth when you try to clean the film and they try to pull off "hairs" from your cloth! 8O

[VideoFred]

My oldest super 8 films are now 19 years old and most of the tape splices are holding up.

You see? My oldest Single-8 films are from 1972... 33 years and still the tape is OK.

Fred.

[VideoFred]

Probably a question about what cement you used and if the spliced were good to begin with, if you scraped off the emulsion enough or something like that.

Agree!

Good cement splices are the best, old shrunken, rock hard tape splices the worst.

Then the Fuji tape must have been very good.

I wonder what kind of splicer made those sick-sack kind of cement splices? Those are HORRIBLE! 8O Thay are visible as hell, they are weak and they grab your cloth when you try to clean the film and they try to pull off "hairs" from your cloth! 8O

Haha! The sick-sack yick-yack zig-zag V-tooth splices!
You must ask Michael about these!

Fred.

[RustyB]

Thanks a million for all the help.

I just picked up a like-new Kodak Universal (R8/S8/16) Splicer plus some "extras" for like $20 on eBay.

Of course, right after I paid for the auction, I looked in my camera collection...in addition to the vintage Cine-Kodak Junior Splicer, I have a Sears & Robuck "Tower" tape splicing kit (dated 1960), both like new in the boxes. :o But I think both of them only work with regular 8mm anyways.

[Uppsala BildTeknik]

There are different qualities of splice-tape too, for sure. I have seen some shrunken, warped and hard tape splices, but I cannot remember how old they were.

Aha, so Micael uses these horrible sick-sack splices! 8O