Hello fellow film makers,
I recently started filming with a Beaulieu 4008 ZM and have noticed that the meter needle is deflecting downward upon pressing the release button. I found a statement in an old thread that said to fix this situation, I have to check the start-stop blade and clean it (if needed), or check the start-stop resistor. Okay, so my question is; can anyone give me a step by step method for going about this? I'm not quite sure where to look for these things inside the camera. Or, is there a simple work around for this problem? Does the reading I get before depressing the shutter release accurately reflect the actual amount of light getting to the film? Alternatively, should I "overexpose" before starting to shoot, so that the needle comes down into the middle of the light meter notch in the viewfinder?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Todd
Beaulieu 4008ZM meter needle deflecting downward
Moderator: Andreas Wideroe
Sorry to hear you’re having trouble.
There’s a section in the Beaulieu manual about low fps and the light meter: Read that if you haven’t.
Are you using a good battery?
Of course, unless (until) you know that the internal meter is accurate, judging exposure by the camera’s meter needle may not be your best option. It just may not be the goal to strive for anyway: There’s a difference between being “told†the camera is all working and the meter is accurate, and having an actual proven use in your hand.
If you aren't sure, something you might try before going further or servicing the camera is to SHOOT A TEST ROLL. Take very, VERY careful and detailed notes, so that when you get the developed film back, you will be able to judge for yourself how under- or overexposed the footage is under what circumstances (you started out over, or you started out right in the middle, whatever). You could include some single-frame exposures too. Have fun.
There’s a section in the Beaulieu manual about low fps and the light meter: Read that if you haven’t.
Are you using a good battery?
Of course, unless (until) you know that the internal meter is accurate, judging exposure by the camera’s meter needle may not be your best option. It just may not be the goal to strive for anyway: There’s a difference between being “told†the camera is all working and the meter is accurate, and having an actual proven use in your hand.
If you aren't sure, something you might try before going further or servicing the camera is to SHOOT A TEST ROLL. Take very, VERY careful and detailed notes, so that when you get the developed film back, you will be able to judge for yourself how under- or overexposed the footage is under what circumstances (you started out over, or you started out right in the middle, whatever). You could include some single-frame exposures too. Have fun.
Steve,
Thank you for your help. I have read the entire manual from front to back, but haven't discovered an answer to the light meter needle dropping while filming phenomenon.
As for the battery issue; I won the camera in an eBay auction from the camera's second owner, who had the camera completely refurbished by Pro8mm. They collimated the lens, removed the zoom motor and electronic diaphragm control, removed the gelatine filter, and lubed the necessary parts. (Yes, the camera is fully manual, at this point.) Later, the camera's power supply was brought up to date by CamerasPro, who installed a dummy block for use with their external NiCad battery pack/charger arrangement. In any case, the battery pack was charged completely prior to filming, and the previous owner said the battery is fresh, so I don't think that a faulty power supply is the culprit here.
We were on the same wavelength regarding the test footage scenario. I actually just completed the first test reel, using different film speeds and various combinations of light meter settings and kept track of what I was doing throughout the process. Obviously, I will have to wait until the film comes back from processing to see what the result of all this is, but at least then, I'll know what direction to go.
By the way, Steve, what is your preffered brand and model of light meter?
Thanks again,
Todd
Thank you for your help. I have read the entire manual from front to back, but haven't discovered an answer to the light meter needle dropping while filming phenomenon.
As for the battery issue; I won the camera in an eBay auction from the camera's second owner, who had the camera completely refurbished by Pro8mm. They collimated the lens, removed the zoom motor and electronic diaphragm control, removed the gelatine filter, and lubed the necessary parts. (Yes, the camera is fully manual, at this point.) Later, the camera's power supply was brought up to date by CamerasPro, who installed a dummy block for use with their external NiCad battery pack/charger arrangement. In any case, the battery pack was charged completely prior to filming, and the previous owner said the battery is fresh, so I don't think that a faulty power supply is the culprit here.
We were on the same wavelength regarding the test footage scenario. I actually just completed the first test reel, using different film speeds and various combinations of light meter settings and kept track of what I was doing throughout the process. Obviously, I will have to wait until the film comes back from processing to see what the result of all this is, but at least then, I'll know what direction to go.
By the way, Steve, what is your preffered brand and model of light meter?
Thanks again,
Todd
Hi Todd,
1. The sections “Setting filming speeds†and “Useful Hints†in the manual (page 20 and the last page, respectively, in my book) refer to filming speeds and influencing the on-board meter. One suggests the floor is 8 fps, the other 2 fps.
2. The battery. Of course, “fully charged†is not sufficient (I think you realize). If the supply was dropping significantly under load, for example, then you might conceivably find the result you describe. But, your battery certainly sounds like it’s in good shape. You may be able to cobble/connect a volt meter between your battery and the camera.
3. Your test roll sounds ideal.
4. The “what light meter†is oft-asked here; if you search the forum, you’ll find a couple of good threads, I think. The meter I find tempting -- at least, whenever I have a little money burning a hole in the pocket, I find myself looking at them on eBay -- is the Pentax digital spot. Personally, I don’t find the “cine†function that some meters offer that attractive. I mean, my movie cameras mechanically define the shutter speed, and that’s sort of it. I just don’t find any extra utility measuring in fps (and often, less). I suppose, if you can program the meter to match the camera’s shutter angle/fps/shutter speeds, you save a step in some situations. But, to your question: What I have is the Gossen LunaPro SBC. It’s a fine meter. Very easy and intuitive to use. 9V battery.
Good luck.
1. The sections “Setting filming speeds†and “Useful Hints†in the manual (page 20 and the last page, respectively, in my book) refer to filming speeds and influencing the on-board meter. One suggests the floor is 8 fps, the other 2 fps.
2. The battery. Of course, “fully charged†is not sufficient (I think you realize). If the supply was dropping significantly under load, for example, then you might conceivably find the result you describe. But, your battery certainly sounds like it’s in good shape. You may be able to cobble/connect a volt meter between your battery and the camera.
3. Your test roll sounds ideal.
4. The “what light meter†is oft-asked here; if you search the forum, you’ll find a couple of good threads, I think. The meter I find tempting -- at least, whenever I have a little money burning a hole in the pocket, I find myself looking at them on eBay -- is the Pentax digital spot. Personally, I don’t find the “cine†function that some meters offer that attractive. I mean, my movie cameras mechanically define the shutter speed, and that’s sort of it. I just don’t find any extra utility measuring in fps (and often, less). I suppose, if you can program the meter to match the camera’s shutter angle/fps/shutter speeds, you save a step in some situations. But, to your question: What I have is the Gossen LunaPro SBC. It’s a fine meter. Very easy and intuitive to use. 9V battery.
Good luck.
-
BK
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About two weeks ago I did some test shooting with my Beaulieu 4008 ZMII as well and I was wondering about the same thing, ( I was using manual exposure ) so I check it with a light meter and each time the reading is spot on before I pressed the trigger. So I wouldn't worry about it too much, I think it should be the drain of the battery power with the camera running that affects the current going to the meter.Does the reading I get before depressing the shutter release accurately reflect the actual amount of light getting to the film?
The design of the battery is a little unique with the Beaulieu ZMs, half of the power ( 3.6V of 7.2V) is used for the light meter from the same cell, and with the camera running the load is used by the motor and hence the drop I believe.
I was using a cheapo Vivitar meter that had a cine scale that I bought from my college days back in the 80's. I think it was only 8 UK pounds back then.
Good luck
Bill
Bill,
Thanks very much for your insight and explanation. I actually heard the same exact thing about the voltage being split between the meter and the motor from the gentleman I purchased the camera from. He also said not to worry and that he never experienced any odd exposure changes in the footage he shot with the camera. I will know for sure when I get my test rolls back, but now I feel very confident that this is just one of those aspects of the Beaulieu ZM's that is more of a quirk than a problem. I'm definitely going to get my hands on a good light meter, such as a Gossen Luna Pro, though.
Take it easy,
Todd
Thanks very much for your insight and explanation. I actually heard the same exact thing about the voltage being split between the meter and the motor from the gentleman I purchased the camera from. He also said not to worry and that he never experienced any odd exposure changes in the footage he shot with the camera. I will know for sure when I get my test rolls back, but now I feel very confident that this is just one of those aspects of the Beaulieu ZM's that is more of a quirk than a problem. I'm definitely going to get my hands on a good light meter, such as a Gossen Luna Pro, though.
Take it easy,
Todd
-
bakanosaru
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- Location: Auckland, New Zealand
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my 4008zm2 does this too,
I always thought it was because the light meter takes its light from the mirrored shutter. when the camera is not running all the light coming through the lens is going to your eye and the meter, when the camera is running the light coming to the meter is intermittent resulting in an apparent drop in light at the meter.
This could be completely wrong, I don't know? :oops:
I always thought it was because the light meter takes its light from the mirrored shutter. when the camera is not running all the light coming through the lens is going to your eye and the meter, when the camera is running the light coming to the meter is intermittent resulting in an apparent drop in light at the meter.
This could be completely wrong, I don't know? :oops:
Hello Everyone,
I have received my test rolls back from the lab and have transferred them onto the computer to analyze the results. Here's what I found out:
1.) The Beaulieu 4008ZM meter actually is accurate after all! However, unless you are checking the readings with an external light meter (suggested), there are some noteable exceptions to this.
2.) The reading you get with the onboard light sensor is right on, as long as you set the meter needle in the center of the viewfinder exposure meter prior to pressing the shutter release. Shots that were done with the meter needle at the top end of the range of the meter came out slightly overexposed, while sequences filmed with the meter needle starting out in the lower portion of the meter came out decidedly underexposed (as expected).
3.) Here's the real discovery I made. The scenario just mentioned only works if you are shooting with a frame rate of 25 fps or less. In fact, footage I shot with slower frame rates, i.e., 2, 4, or 8 fps turned out with the best overall exposures. Above 25 fps, the footage suffered from excessive darkening, due to the higher shutter speeds. So, in the next round of trials, I will experiment with opening up the aperture by a stop or so to see if that counteracts the darkening effect of the faster shutter speeds at faster frame rates. Of course, there has to be enough existing light available and another lower aperture setting to go to in order for this to be possible, but this is what I plan on doing the next time I need to use the higher frame rates on the 4008ZM (as well as use an external light meter!).
One last thing I would like to mention, is that I shot three test rolls with three different stocks (K-40, Tri-X, and Plus-X). And, in my humble opinion, the Tri-X looked best. I love the grain that film exhibits and also the deep black shadows it produces. Furthermore, now that I have invested in a good light meter (Sekonic L-398M) I will be able to pinpoint the correct exposure for any given situation.
Well, I hope this information helps anyone out there that had similar questions regarding their 4008ZM onboard light meters. It looks as though the needle deflecting downward upon pressing the shutter release is due to the diversion of power away from the meter to the motor and does not have any adverse effect on exposure.
I have received my test rolls back from the lab and have transferred them onto the computer to analyze the results. Here's what I found out:
1.) The Beaulieu 4008ZM meter actually is accurate after all! However, unless you are checking the readings with an external light meter (suggested), there are some noteable exceptions to this.
2.) The reading you get with the onboard light sensor is right on, as long as you set the meter needle in the center of the viewfinder exposure meter prior to pressing the shutter release. Shots that were done with the meter needle at the top end of the range of the meter came out slightly overexposed, while sequences filmed with the meter needle starting out in the lower portion of the meter came out decidedly underexposed (as expected).
3.) Here's the real discovery I made. The scenario just mentioned only works if you are shooting with a frame rate of 25 fps or less. In fact, footage I shot with slower frame rates, i.e., 2, 4, or 8 fps turned out with the best overall exposures. Above 25 fps, the footage suffered from excessive darkening, due to the higher shutter speeds. So, in the next round of trials, I will experiment with opening up the aperture by a stop or so to see if that counteracts the darkening effect of the faster shutter speeds at faster frame rates. Of course, there has to be enough existing light available and another lower aperture setting to go to in order for this to be possible, but this is what I plan on doing the next time I need to use the higher frame rates on the 4008ZM (as well as use an external light meter!).
One last thing I would like to mention, is that I shot three test rolls with three different stocks (K-40, Tri-X, and Plus-X). And, in my humble opinion, the Tri-X looked best. I love the grain that film exhibits and also the deep black shadows it produces. Furthermore, now that I have invested in a good light meter (Sekonic L-398M) I will be able to pinpoint the correct exposure for any given situation.
Well, I hope this information helps anyone out there that had similar questions regarding their 4008ZM onboard light meters. It looks as though the needle deflecting downward upon pressing the shutter release is due to the diversion of power away from the meter to the motor and does not have any adverse effect on exposure.