New Vision 200T Stock

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Post by Guest »

yes, a very good and informative thread! And it seems that a couple of folks here are into filming snowboarders. Maybe due to the time of the year? :wink:

Anyway, me too. Next week i'll try for myself to film snowboarding, and had the idea of changing film speed during the scene. I was thinking of filming at normal speed, and at a given moment - like a takeoff to jump - accelerate the speed without any cut. Unfortunately, a higher speed includes diferent shutter times, so a manual mode is out of the question, and i have to rely on the autoexposure. With a beaulieu 4008, would the autoexposure be fast enough to compensate?
shralp
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Post by shralp »

Nice,
Thanks for all the feedback guys! I agree, exposure is really more of an aesthetic choice depending on what you are shooting, the emotions you are trying to convey, etc. All of this info has pretty much answered my original question and topic of this post - which was concerning the graininess of the new Vision 200T stock. The reason I was asking this was because of all the grain I was seeing from my test rolls of K-40 that I shot on the snow for my new film. I realize now that the reason that I was seeing all the grain was because I was infact using the TTL meter on my Nizo Professional to meter and just like everyone has been pointing out. The meter was attempting to make my prodominantly white background register at 18% grey. I never watched the films projected, (I don't have one and I'm used to going straight to telecine anyway). I told my colorist that the most impotant thing was to make the snow white so he had to jack the levels up to do this and of course, this was going to induce grain into the shot. In effect, I did underexpose for the conditions and the part of the shot that I wanted to expose for. This is why all the advice of all the snow shooters out there about opening up one stop from the meter reading makes sense to me now. Thats the thing, most of these shots are going to be in alpine settings with little to no shadow, and not many trees. Pretty much full on bright conditions. This is why I don't need to worry about exposing for the snowboarder, half the time he will be a small part of the overall frame and the most important part is making the snow look nice and white.

Istvan - my sekonic is a L318B which is their basic digital meter. It meters standard shutter speeds for photo as well as a cine scale from 4fps to 120fps,(it assumes that you are using a 180degree shutter). For $169 U.S. its the best price I've seen for a decent cine meter. I will try to use my hand held meter set at 1/60th of a sec. in photo mode to see how it works taking incident readings for my Nizo which is 1/57th at 24fps.

I must say that I'm still trying to figure out how I should meter using the in camera meter for those days when Its full on dumping and overcast or I'm in the trees and its not so bright out. Wonder if the 1 stop over rule would still apply for good exposure of the snow. Anyone have suggestions on this situation?

Guest - regarding your snoboard shots and ramping up speed, depending on what camera you are using, this should work well. Its one of the reasons that I bought this Nizo, you can be shooting at 24fps and as long as you are in auto exposure mode, when you push the 54fps button it will ramp up to that speed and adjust the iris accordingly. In my camera tests it worked pretty good with only a slight blip in exposure as the auto iris adjusted for the ramped up speed. This should work with most cameras I would assume. Of course, now that I know I need to open up a stop in bright conditions for proper snow exposure, this means when I try this technique, I'm going to have to have one finger pushing the 54fps button, one finger pushing the +1 stop button and one finger pulling the trigger, not to mention adjusting focus and focal length! Looks like its time to practice....
Lucas Lightfeat
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Post by Lucas Lightfeat »

Hi Shralp
I must say that I'm still trying to figure out how I should meter using the in camera meter for those days when Its full on dumping and overcast or I'm in the trees and its not so bright out. Wonder if the 1 stop over rule would still apply for good exposure of the snow. Anyone have suggestions on this situation?
I'll say it again - All you really need is a £5 grey card, available from any photographic shop. You could use your internal meter, which despite what anyone here says, will give you an accurate reading. Zoom into the grey card, expose - Voila! Much much more accurate than compensating with an arbitrary 1 stop, or whatever. The snow will probably blow out very very white, because of Kodachrome's small latitude, but that's kind of what you want, no? And all else in the frame will expose OK - people, trees etc., and it won't be grainy. Kodachrome is virtually grainless - it was video noise on your transfer.
I realize now that the reason that I was seeing all the grain was because I was infact using the TTL meter on my Nizo Professional to meter and just like everyone has been pointing out. The meter was attempting to make my prodominantly white background register at 18% grey. I never watched the films projected, (I don't have one and I'm used to going straight to telecine anyway). I told my colorist that the most impotant thing was to make the snow white so he had to jack the levels up to do this and of course, this was going to induce grain into the shot. In effect, I did underexpose for the conditions and the part of the shot that I wanted to expose for.
So all you need to do is telecine again - but you will get grey snow!

P.S. I will get back to you soon about the C-8 adapter. I've been stupidly busy. My apologies...

Lucas
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