What is your WorkPrinter setup like?

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MovieStuff
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Post by MovieStuff »

burchis wrote: I feel the problem is memory curl. Is there anyway to combat this
Sure. It's simple. Just keep a piece of straight new leader around and tag it onto the beginning of the roll. Old leader has horrible memory curl. You can sometimes straighted it out by reverse curling it around your finger or a pencil but I say, screw it: just tag on a piece of new leader. It always works and just takes a second. Most client's leader is too short for threading purposes anyway and you can snip off your temporary leader when your finished.

Roger
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Post by Konton »

Hey Fred, when sound striping optical prints you need to slice the enamel off the edge of the film. You use a groover for that. It’s got a diamond head to cut with. My plan for undeveloped film is to groove the edge off so I take off the lubricant as well as the enamel. That way I can still sound stripe while the film lubricant stays in tack. At least that’s the theory.

I’m getting telecine envy seeing everyone’s setup! So Fred, can we see a 30 second clip of some film in hi-def?

Burchis, I white balance to the light coming out of the workprinter. It doesn’t make sense to white balance to the film leader as it’s thick and is not what would be seen when the film is completely clear. In fact I usually white balance to a clear part of film. After time I found it was not necessary.

Yes, I have to reposition my camera, but not to focus. I usually move it side to side while I angle the camera itself to get the 8mm frame. I never move the camera up / down, or back / forth.

LastQuark, Damn I want your system! What lenses are you all talking about? More telecine envy!

Paul, let’s see some hi-def samples from your system! Let’s see a pic of your system!

Okay. Something new. Here's my telecine system in action transferring a 1600ft reel!
http://super8cinema.com/MVI_3284.AVI

Now let's see yours!

Damn this thread is getting long.
Justin Miller
ericMartinJarvies
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Post by ericMartinJarvies »

hello,

Image

this is a 30 year old film test made by the folks at eclair when testing the acl i now have(30 years later is now s16 thank you bernie). this image was shot using canon digital rebel on lowest image res setting btw. when using highest setting, or kodak dcs pro/c highest setting, image can be blown imazingly large without pixalization(unlike this one). but for ntsc/pal/dvd purposes, this low res image more then does the trick.

i beleive this is correct white balance and exposure. i am now working with the kodak, canon, nikon, fuji, etc. SDK's to create a single, integrated app that will recognize any one of about 30 dSLr cameras using just the one software application. presets for white balance, use image for white balance, use lumination gated film for white balance, etc. adjust filmstock side setting to tungsten, daylight, flouresent, etc. adjust lumination side from daylight to tungsten(3200k, 3400k, 3600k and 3800k), with amber and blue 3x3mm filters for slot and stack between lumination/light and opal acryl.

it took a while to figure things out, but now i am recording data into the dB for averaging and preset hints/help. should come together soon.

the dSLR cameras, when writing data directly to the host computer hard drive, slows down the frame rate. it is best to record to the on-board memory(hitachi 4 and 5 gigers preferred), and when 90% full, copy to host computer. however, the camera software does not do this, so i am having to write this function into the application(anyone worth a damn at x-code/project builder?) itself.

i found a cool way to create IN and OUT points on rolls of film. initial tests using hardware show i will be able to use the perfs to count frames. now i will need program my PIC to count and keep track/store/recall, as well as host software for visual ref and recording of controller data(due to controller memory constraints). so hopefully when all is said and done, the film will run through the gate at 50-100fps, first making a frame count. then, running realtime 23.978 making ntsc/pal 24p recording, or if you have the money for the 1920x1080 24p camera head, making hd real timers, then later once the rough or final cut is made, you cna use the dSLR for those cineon res images you need for compositing or archive orprint to film. pretty cool huh?

i have purchased 3 year extended warranties on each one of my digital cameras ... so once i start running these cameras all day and night, i will most likely become the authoritive on shutter actuations for kodak, nikon, canon, olympus, fuji, etc. dslr cameras, and warranty turn around/loaner service ... and eventually .. tolerance/acceptance, and perhaps limitations/exclusions ;)

i was hoping a 3rd party software developer would have come through with their sequencer application for high res raw and photo jpeg images .. but no go. so this means i will have to most likely address this issue myself. i have found some developers who have been working on similar sequencers and ram preview products, and am trying to get some source code to start with. this way as the images are being captured frame by frame, they are being dumped into a qt wrapper for the movie of your choice, res or converted res of your choice.

i will purchase a couple more differant brand spot meters, and start performing white, grey, and color board and res tests using controlled lighting and daylight, with daylight and tungsten films. using readings, and application wb control, hopefully i will be able to replace the actual glass/resin filters with digital filters, thus eliminating that step in the process. i have a millions of colors color sensor hard wired into my controller/pic board, and once i have the above mentioned data sets, then i should be able to couple all of this info and come up with accurates. the only thing that would be left to conted with would be the lab ... so when i get ot that point in the project development, i will find a lab to work with me on this, and see if we cnat get the entire color correction process under control from the time of actual metering/filming, to processing, to digitizing. i feel confident this can be reduced to presets with +- fine tune adjustment control. fingers crossed.

eric
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LastQuark
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Post by LastQuark »

paulcotto wrote:Do you have a macro X-Y stage for focusing the lens under the camera?
The stage in the picture has a big black knob. I use this to focus the camera. I also have the X and the Z stage to move the camera side to side and up and down but is not in the picture. To install the stage, I have to raise WP up which I haven't done yet. Things are on hold because I'm waiting for the Ikegami c-mount adapter. I badly want the Ikegami to be my main camera because of the large FIT CCD's.
Konton wrote:LastQuark.....What lenses are you all talking about?
This is the Sony 45mm Macro lens Model VCL-M45YM. Very nice small c-mount lens with excellent coverage of the entire S8 film area. Here's the pic:

Image

Here's the spec:
http://www.sony.net/Products/ISP/pdf/di ... MLENSE.pdf

Here's a link:
http://www.chori-america.com/Chori_10/access2.HTM

Sony no longer manufacture the lens. It comes with 2 lenses - fixed and with iris. Paul Cotto mentioned this lens over a year ago (?) in this board when it was still widely available in eBay. It's hard to find now. It might still be available in Japan. You can also email sales on the link I provided above if they still have it.
 
studiocarter
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Post by studiocarter »

I just now figured out how to video my setup. The problem was that my new digital Win2000 configuration will not accept my old Fuji 1200 digital camera input anymore so I'm limited to video and the ATI card analog input was disabled when new drivers were installed. But, I got the card to work - somehow - so I can now capture Hi-8mm again. MiniDV 3ccd is what I'll use for video transfer of 8mm films and a picture of that camera is wanted, that was the only way I had to load any pictures and without lots of mirrors there was no way to use the camera to transfer film and to shoot a picture if itself doing it!
Since the cheap old ATI 128 Pro card now works with Win 2000 and the 7.1 drivers, I bought a British ATI 128 Pro card to capture Pal with! It was worth the 20 pounds to play with it.
Can a Pal video camera be far behind?
more to come....
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VideoFred
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Post by VideoFred »

Konton wrote: I’m getting telecine envy seeing everyone’s setup! So Fred, can we see a 30 second clip of some film in hi-def?
Sure, have you not see them allready?

Here they are:
ftp://ftp.filmshooting.com/upload/video/mpg/
ftp://ftp.filmshooting.com/upload/video/avi/

Just search for the 'videoFred' files.

Fred.
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MovieStuff
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Post by MovieStuff »

Konton wrote: Okay. Something new. Here's my telecine system in action transferring a 1600ft reel!
Too bad you had the lights out. I would be intriqued to see how you fit a 1600 foot reel on a WorkPrinter, considering it only holds 400 feet!!!

Roger
http://www.moviestuff.tv
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Post by mercyboy »

super8man wrote:I am thinking I want to rig up a usb wireless webcam or security cam so that I can flip to Video 2 on my TV and check on the WP from the comfort of my living room. I am serious. This is a big deal (to be able to let the workprinter do its thing for an hour and not babysit every frame).
I've got a few computers, one of which I use to capture from the Workprinter setup, and another of which I'm usually using for client work during the capture. I had been trying various setups to shield the WP from stray light, but they just got between me and the WP and it was a big hassle. So I ended up drilling a hole through the wall and now I run my cables thru it so I can have the WP running in the other room (which I can keep dark) while all of the capturing is happening right in front of me while I'm doing client work. Because I can see the WP images on a second monitor, it acts like a babysitter, too. The other room is my living room, so I haven't mounted anything permanetly....just unplug and I can put it all away when it's not in use. But if you want to stay in your living room, I guess you could just reverse the setup if you have an adjacent room to borrow for the WP and can easily move your computer.

As for the person asking about HEPA filters, I've actualy got 3 of them in my apartment!!! (Hey, it's NYC and the air gets mucked up by the rest of the country before it gets here.) WHne cleaning film, it's not going to help much since your face and the chemicals are right next to each other. But, it does help circulate air (obviously) so that can assist in venting a room. It's good to help keep air a bit less dusty, but dust still settles, these things are not maids. So you'll still need to keep your QP covered and clean. If you've thought about the Ionica Breeze from Sharper Image; save your money. They are a joke. Bought a bunch of them and eventually just sold them off on eBay. (You can't even run them when it rains since the humidity causes electric arcs that make an incredibly annoying buzzing sound.)

Aside from the air, NYC isn't all that bad. When I needed a board to mount my rewinds on, I just strolled down the street and didn't get a full block away before I found a nice set of removable bookshelves being thrown away. Either that, or somebody was moving into an apartment and they now have one less shelf. Ha!
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Post by super8man »

Its easy to see Roger, in WMP, go to ENHANCEMENTS and pump up (not the volume, hehehe) the BRIGHNESS. Konton is using a Elmo projector as the takeup real and a separate arm bolted to a table feeding the feed reel of the workprinter (probably also using the takeup reel of the WP for a lap before going to the elmo).

SUPER SUPER SUPER KOOL KONTON! YOU ROCK!

By, the way, I have found little need to be in total darkness on my xfers. Some ambient light appears to have no affect as long as there are no direct reflections behind the camera on the big convex lens. OTHERS MAY HAVE DIFFERENT EXPERIENCES. But that is how it is for me.

Konton, did I say you ROCK!

KKKKOOOOOOOLLLL.

Cheers,
m
vinylwall
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Post by vinylwall »

Sorry, I'm late to the party.

Here is my setup...

Image

Jimi Ray
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Post by Royalbox »

@vinylwall
Very nice. Do you have any information about that little stand the camcorder is on? It looks ideal.
super8man
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Post by super8man »

looks like an old school telecine box stand - the smoke and mirrors kind!

Very nice...I would prefer that setup in black instead of white though. Still, I am jealous!

m
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Post by Konton »

So on a Mac it's working okay? What's your Mac setup like? How are you doing the 3:2 pulldown?
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threeinv
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Post by threeinv »

Very clean setup, Jimi! I like the "tunnel" to cut down on ambient light. So how many people use a cardboard tube of some type between the camera and condenser lens?

--Derrick
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Post by vinylwall »

Thanks for the kind words...

super8man is right. I used the stand from an old Ambico transfer unit I picked up 10-15 years ago. The transfer box never worked good, but the stand works great!

We built the unit from white shelving units we picked up at Lowes. They already had the melemine (or similar) finish so there was no painting involved. We "simply" cut them down and screwed & glued the parts together.

Konton - the Mac setup is working great. There is no pulldown - this is a CineMate-20 unit. Scans real time, not frame by frame. I couldn't quite swing the cost of the WorkPrinter unit at the time [although I now wish I would have robbed from Peter to pay Paul - or Roger! - or whatever :wink: ]. We run a small demo recording studio so more money was being shoved into the audio production side than the film scan side.

Projector: MovieStuff CineMate-20
Camcorder: Canon ZR65MC connected to Mac via FireWire
Mac: Mirror Drive Door G4 - dual 867MHz - 2GB RAM - multiple 120GB HDs (some internal - some FireWire)
Software: Apple's Final Cut Pro / Apple's DVD Studio Pro
VCR: JVC HR-DVS3U MiniDV/S-VHS deck also connected to Mac via FireWire

Threeinv - the "tunnel" is removable for lense cleaning and to align the camera to the condenser lense. It just sits on 4 posts.


Jimi Ray
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