Home Processing
Moderator: Andreas Wideroe
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Home Processing
I know that the Russian dev tank is available but I remember seeing somewhere that Jobo also had at one time a cine/movie developing tank.
Do any of you know about the Jobo tank?
Thanks
Do any of you know about the Jobo tank?
Thanks
John G
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Re: Home Processing
Jobo had several long-roll tanks. Even 8mm and adjustable to 70mm on one model. NONE of these tanks take 15meter. A spiral of 15 meter cannot be made to fit in their max standard tank diameter.landsberger wrote:I know that the Russian dev tank is available but I remember seeing somewhere that Jobo also had at one time a cine/movie developing tank.
Do any of you know about the Jobo tank?
Thanks
Kind regards,
André
André
I know you can get a Jobo reel for their unitank system to do 16mm but it is for Minox film (little "spy" camera) and not cine film. They are for still films, I am familiar with their system because I use it for 35mm and 120 rollfilm.
As far as any of us is aware, the only two cine tanks with any reasonable availability are the Russian Lomo tank (two versions available) and the American Doran G3 rewind tank.
Most here seem to prefer the Lomo but both have their + and -'s. I personally use the Lomo.
As far as any of us is aware, the only two cine tanks with any reasonable availability are the Russian Lomo tank (two versions available) and the American Doran G3 rewind tank.
Most here seem to prefer the Lomo but both have their + and -'s. I personally use the Lomo.
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Re: Home Processing
To extend the info.aj wrote:Jobo had several long-roll tanks. Even 8mm and adjustable to 70mm on one model. NONE of these tanks take 15meter. A spiral of 15 meter cannot be made to fit in their max standard tank diameter.landsberger wrote:I know that the Russian dev tank is available but I remember seeing somewhere that Jobo also had at one time a cine/movie developing tank.
Do any of you know about the Jobo tank?
Thanks
These tanks are no longer available from Jobo. I know, I checked. Sometime one can be found at eBay.
Max length in these tanks is 10 meter. You need a loader to get the material in.
Kind regards,
André
André
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- monobath
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Angus, there were many many 16mm still film cameras made from the '50s to the mid '70s by the likes of Canon, Minolta, Yashica, Steky, Rollei, Kiev, Konan, Meopta, Olympus, Pentacon, Pentax, Tower, Sears, Bell, the list goes on and on and on and on. Here is a partial list here 16mm cameras.Angus wrote:I know you can get a Jobo reel for their unitank system to do 16mm but it is for Minox film (little "spy" camera) and not cine film. They are for still films, I am familiar with their system because I use it for 35mm and 120 rollfilm.
As far as any of us is aware, the only two cine tanks with any reasonable availability are the Russian Lomo tank (two versions available) and the American Doran G3 rewind tank.
Most here seem to prefer the Lomo but both have their + and -'s. I personally use the Lomo.
However, Minox was not one of them. Minox cameras use reloadable cartridge film that is 9.2 or 9.3 mm wide. The actual image area is 8mm by 11mm. I have seven or eight of them, most in excellent condition. I almost always carry a Minox III or Minox B with me anywhere I go.
Several factory loaded color negative and B&W films are readily available, but I generally reload my cartridges with whatever film I want to shoot. You can make or buy a slitter to cut the film down from 35mm stock. I mostly shoot B&W, but I've just started shooting color film in my Minox cameras, and I'm developing them in my Jobo processor using a Jobo 1501 based reel specially modified for Minox film by 8x11film.com.
Anyway, sorry to go on about this and I hope you don't think me boorish, but whenever I see people refer to the Minox as a 16mm camera, I always feel compelled to set the record straight.

I acquired a Minolta 16mm tank for use with their 16mm system. It has two spirals and takes about 350mm lengths.
I have used it for test lengths of double-8 through some old standard 8 cameras I have. The great thing is from two lengths of film four cameras can be tested.
It would probably not be too difficult to modiy one to take 8mm wide film for test lengths.
Tanks are not the only way to process cine film. Hand frames for processing in paper developing dishes were once sold commercially, as were winding frame systems that must have sent developer all over the place. See my web site for pictures from an old book.
With rubber gloves and a dark room a home made frame should not be too difficult to produce. 50' of super 8 should fit into a 12 X 10 dish.
I have used it for test lengths of double-8 through some old standard 8 cameras I have. The great thing is from two lengths of film four cameras can be tested.
It would probably not be too difficult to modiy one to take 8mm wide film for test lengths.
Tanks are not the only way to process cine film. Hand frames for processing in paper developing dishes were once sold commercially, as were winding frame systems that must have sent developer all over the place. See my web site for pictures from an old book.
With rubber gloves and a dark room a home made frame should not be too difficult to produce. 50' of super 8 should fit into a 12 X 10 dish.
New web site and this is cine page http://www.picsntech.co.uk/cine.html
- monobath
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I have trays that are nominally designated 11x14, but are actually 12x16. I made a film frame from a small sheet of plexiglass as described by Martin Baumgarten on one of his pages.
You wrap the film around it, then develop in the dark in the open trays. The frame fit very comfortably in my trays and was easy to process, but it takes a full three liters of each solution to completely cover the film, so it is not as economical to use as a G3 or Lomo spiral tank, unless you have a lot of film to process.
The only difficulty I had was that I'd occassionally break my film by wrapping it too tightly on the frame in an effort to keep it from sliding around and overlapping an adjacent lap of film. I feel certain I could overcome that problem by cutting 9mm wide slots in each end of the frame to keep the film from overlapping, and sanding them smooth to keep from cutting the film.
You wrap the film around it, then develop in the dark in the open trays. The frame fit very comfortably in my trays and was easy to process, but it takes a full three liters of each solution to completely cover the film, so it is not as economical to use as a G3 or Lomo spiral tank, unless you have a lot of film to process.
The only difficulty I had was that I'd occassionally break my film by wrapping it too tightly on the frame in an effort to keep it from sliding around and overlapping an adjacent lap of film. I feel certain I could overcome that problem by cutting 9mm wide slots in each end of the frame to keep the film from overlapping, and sanding them smooth to keep from cutting the film.