Hi,i have the above projector as well as a Noris 322 with the same schneider lens ,why on the noris can i get edge to edge sharp pictures,but i cant get the edge sharp on the bauer without losing focus on the centre and vice versa..I read in an earlier post that poor design on the bauer gate is to blaim? Can anything be done to rectify this.
On another issue is the Noris 342 stereo machine with 150 watt lamp brighter than the Bauer 610? THANKS for any replies
Bauer T610,with f1.1 lens,cant focus edge to edge
Moderator: Andreas Wideroe
I´ve had just several Bauers, a T502, a T600 and a T610, all with similar gate construction.
There are a few things that are very important.
First, the plastic pressure piece must be VERY CLEAN. When you take it out for cleaning, you must feel that it is some kind thicker in the gate area (about 0,5 mm thicker). If not, it is abrased and should be exchanged.
After taking out the pressure piece, take off the lens and check the metal film path under the gate opening. There´s where film and sound stripe abrasions LOVE to keep glueing, making any accurate focus setting impossible. Sometimes the dirt sticks so hard, that you must scratch it off with a WOODEN stick. Then clean film path and plastic piece with alcohol and afterwards with film lub (a careful amout of silicon).
Place the plastic piece again where it had been and check the spring tension. The tension is adjustable at the screw where the holder for the pressure piece is fixed. Adjust it in a way, that in stop position it touches the film path and in project position it gives only a little bit more tension to the springs. When switching from stop to projecto position (skip threading position), the washer disks near at the springs of the pressure plate must move about 0,2 mm, just visible, not more!
Keep the sound heads clean and lub any striped sound film to avoid abrasions!
Then you will have the optimum sharpness possible. However, the 1:1,1 lens ALWAYS will show some unequal focus. It has too less depth of field for that kind of gate construction. Much better is the 1:1.3 MC lens!
Pedro
There are a few things that are very important.
First, the plastic pressure piece must be VERY CLEAN. When you take it out for cleaning, you must feel that it is some kind thicker in the gate area (about 0,5 mm thicker). If not, it is abrased and should be exchanged.
After taking out the pressure piece, take off the lens and check the metal film path under the gate opening. There´s where film and sound stripe abrasions LOVE to keep glueing, making any accurate focus setting impossible. Sometimes the dirt sticks so hard, that you must scratch it off with a WOODEN stick. Then clean film path and plastic piece with alcohol and afterwards with film lub (a careful amout of silicon).
Place the plastic piece again where it had been and check the spring tension. The tension is adjustable at the screw where the holder for the pressure piece is fixed. Adjust it in a way, that in stop position it touches the film path and in project position it gives only a little bit more tension to the springs. When switching from stop to projecto position (skip threading position), the washer disks near at the springs of the pressure plate must move about 0,2 mm, just visible, not more!
Keep the sound heads clean and lub any striped sound film to avoid abrasions!
Then you will have the optimum sharpness possible. However, the 1:1,1 lens ALWAYS will show some unequal focus. It has too less depth of field for that kind of gate construction. Much better is the 1:1.3 MC lens!
Pedro
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Guest
focus
I know the problem: it happens on the 610! Two reasons:
1) the lens: there are difference among the schneider 1.1. It has not a hight quality standard. Someone is right, someone is wrong!
2) the metal film parth: it has to be parallel to film, and in t 610 it is not so!
It's hard to find to solution. I putted under the metal path little pieces of tinfoil: you have to try and to try again until you'll find the right position.
ciao
ugo
1) the lens: there are difference among the schneider 1.1. It has not a hight quality standard. Someone is right, someone is wrong!
2) the metal film parth: it has to be parallel to film, and in t 610 it is not so!
It's hard to find to solution. I putted under the metal path little pieces of tinfoil: you have to try and to try again until you'll find the right position.
ciao
ugo
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Guest
All Bauer studio class projectors (with sound mixer unit at the bottom) have the very same gate/film path construction: T502, T525, T610, nearly the same is T600, T500, T60.
The only difference are the sound & control options.
So the problem is the very same for any of that seria.
New gates are available at Wittner Kinotechnik for about EUR 17, new sound heads, too (they are the other problem!).
Ugo: the parallel position between the film path in the gate area and the lens is defined thru the metal chassis and "should" be exact. I also thought, that this was a problem with my T502. But then the repair shop showed me, where to clean - and I had been very surprized. There is a place, right at the under end of the lens holder, where you nearly cannot see, where the dirt sticks at one side of the chanel, causing an not parallel film position and forced sound stripe abrasion! You have to verify it with a lamp and clean it with a wooden stick.
On the other hand, the Schneider plastic lens is not any good for such a extreme opening 1:1,1! It has been only a marketing desicion to design a plastic lens with such a geometrical opening like that! Nor the internal zoom guides, nor the lens holder is exact enough for it! Much better is the 1:1,3 lens from the T600 or the 1:1,2 lens from the T502!
Funny that at the Elmo GS1200MO, the 1:1,0 lens has not any problem to produce totally sharp images.
Pedro
The only difference are the sound & control options.
So the problem is the very same for any of that seria.
New gates are available at Wittner Kinotechnik for about EUR 17, new sound heads, too (they are the other problem!).
Ugo: the parallel position between the film path in the gate area and the lens is defined thru the metal chassis and "should" be exact. I also thought, that this was a problem with my T502. But then the repair shop showed me, where to clean - and I had been very surprized. There is a place, right at the under end of the lens holder, where you nearly cannot see, where the dirt sticks at one side of the chanel, causing an not parallel film position and forced sound stripe abrasion! You have to verify it with a lamp and clean it with a wooden stick.
On the other hand, the Schneider plastic lens is not any good for such a extreme opening 1:1,1! It has been only a marketing desicion to design a plastic lens with such a geometrical opening like that! Nor the internal zoom guides, nor the lens holder is exact enough for it! Much better is the 1:1,3 lens from the T600 or the 1:1,2 lens from the T502!
Funny that at the Elmo GS1200MO, the 1:1,0 lens has not any problem to produce totally sharp images.
Pedro
Hi Pedro
Right Pedro, it "should" be. The problem is structural. I know very well the bauer; I'm not a technical but in Naples there are not repaired shop, so two years ago I started with my first step like "technical autodidact". Now I know how to dismantle my bauer. For exaple I'm able to change: the "griffa" (what's the neame in english?) and the cam; the path film..until to separate the iron chassis from the plastic shell. I think the series production isn't able to respect the right standard to obtain a perfect projector.
The path guide is on two little arms: if in the factory these arms did not file at the best the result is you loose the focus on the edge.
Of course the others reasons you explain are possible too.
Ciao Pedro.
ps: I agree with you: the gs1200 is wonderful. Do you know there are two different series of gs1200? the most important difference is about the shutter. In the second serie the blades are larger than the first serie, so the second serie isn't light.
The path guide is on two little arms: if in the factory these arms did not file at the best the result is you loose the focus on the edge.
Of course the others reasons you explain are possible too.
Ciao Pedro.
ps: I agree with you: the gs1200 is wonderful. Do you know there are two different series of gs1200? the most important difference is about the shutter. In the second serie the blades are larger than the first serie, so the second serie isn't light.
Ugo: I think the 2nd Elmo seria has as a main modification a different bottom loop for the film (going to the left hand side, while the older models lead the bottom loop to the right hand side).
This kind of loop does not stress the film/splices so much as the other loop did. In addidion, they changed the thickness of the gate. If something goes wrong or the film is very bended (in horizontal direction), it could happen that it scratches passing over the fixing points of the gate. (But it never happended to me)
A big problem of both is the feeding part of the film chanel. This part is stressed by the film itself and becomes thinner and thinner until the film surface gets scratched. To avoid this, you can apply a metal inox wire (office cramps) at each border of the feeding part. Each wire is fixed in 2 small holes (about 1 mm) directly at the border of the feeding piece.
A threading is rather tricky with the GS1200 when the film leader is not bended the way the projector is expecting, I did a slight modification on at the second upper feeding piece, too. (That part, that leads the film into the gate). I only glued a small piece of film, about 15 mm only, from outside to the plastic. Now, when pressing the threading button, this film piece enters with it´s end into the gate section and the film leader you want to thread cannot go outside anymore! Works very well! In normal projection position, this modification is without any effect to the film chanel.
Pedro
This kind of loop does not stress the film/splices so much as the other loop did. In addidion, they changed the thickness of the gate. If something goes wrong or the film is very bended (in horizontal direction), it could happen that it scratches passing over the fixing points of the gate. (But it never happended to me)
A big problem of both is the feeding part of the film chanel. This part is stressed by the film itself and becomes thinner and thinner until the film surface gets scratched. To avoid this, you can apply a metal inox wire (office cramps) at each border of the feeding part. Each wire is fixed in 2 small holes (about 1 mm) directly at the border of the feeding piece.
A threading is rather tricky with the GS1200 when the film leader is not bended the way the projector is expecting, I did a slight modification on at the second upper feeding piece, too. (That part, that leads the film into the gate). I only glued a small piece of film, about 15 mm only, from outside to the plastic. Now, when pressing the threading button, this film piece enters with it´s end into the gate section and the film leader you want to thread cannot go outside anymore! Works very well! In normal projection position, this modification is without any effect to the film chanel.
Pedro
Hi Pedro
Thank for your post Pedro.
I made similar works to my two Elmo gs 1200. I have a first serie and a second serie. At the second serie I made two important works: I modified the transformer to obtain 25,5 v. to the lamp; and in these days I have ultimated the substitution of the original shutter with a two blades. Now It has more light than the first serie! I have the original service manual for the gs1200. Do you wanna a copy?
Ciao
Ugo
I made similar works to my two Elmo gs 1200. I have a first serie and a second serie. At the second serie I made two important works: I modified the transformer to obtain 25,5 v. to the lamp; and in these days I have ultimated the substitution of the original shutter with a two blades. Now It has more light than the first serie! I have the original service manual for the gs1200. Do you wanna a copy?
Ciao
Ugo