I'm thinking about buying a either a 4008 ZMII or 4008 ZM4 Beaulieu super 8 camera, and since I'm sure there are many Beaulieu users that frequent this forum, I thought this would be a good place to start up a discussion comparing the 4008 ZMII and ZM4. Hopefully some of you can list the reasons for why, in your opinion, one of these two models is a better choice than the other. I realize that in general, the features of a camera that one sees as "necessary" or "better" will vary from person to person, but any opinions on why the ZMII or ZM4 might be better than the other are certainly welcome.
From what I understand (and please correct me if I'm wrong), the only difference between the body of the ZM4 and the ZMII is that the ZM4 allows filming speeds up to 80 fps compared to the ZMII's 70 fps. I also realize that the slightly longer lenses included with the ZM4s are a little faster compared to the standard lenses of the ZMIIs, however I've read that the ZM4 lenses can be put in macro only when at the minimum focal length, compared to the ZMIIs which apparently can be put into macro at any focal length. If you know of any other differences between the ZMII and ZM4, I'd appreciate if you could share them.
Thanks!
Your Opinion: Beaulieu 4008 ZMII vs. 4008 ZM4
Moderator: Andreas Wideroe
..... The schneiders 6-66 1.8 are generally considered to be better lenses than the 1.4 ones......
Further I would advise you never to buy cameras on e bay which are said to be "never used" or "out of the box" because the chances that these cameras have defects are generally bigger than those cams which are used regularly and have been serviced.
Paul
Further I would advise you never to buy cameras on e bay which are said to be "never used" or "out of the box" because the chances that these cameras have defects are generally bigger than those cams which are used regularly and have been serviced.
Paul
THe main difference between the two bodies, besides the slightly higher max framerate, is that the ZMIV has no internal gelatine filters. This requires conversion filters in front of the lens, providing better results that with the mostly dirty internal filters close to the film surface.
The lens has nothing to do with the body, it only must be adjusted very well to the particular columnation of the body, in order to compensate any tolerances. It´s all c-mount, and the very best lens that fits to c-mount is the Angenieux 1:1,2/6-80 mm. I would avoid any Schneider Optivaron 6-70/ 1:1,4, that frequently had been sold with ZMIV. Or sell it and purchase an Angenieux.
Pedro
The lens has nothing to do with the body, it only must be adjusted very well to the particular columnation of the body, in order to compensate any tolerances. It´s all c-mount, and the very best lens that fits to c-mount is the Angenieux 1:1,2/6-80 mm. I would avoid any Schneider Optivaron 6-70/ 1:1,4, that frequently had been sold with ZMIV. Or sell it and purchase an Angenieux.
Pedro
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The differences between the two are really small. Most of the very high end S16 cameras and 35mm never come with speeds greater than 70fps. As a matter of fact if I remember the Aaton XTR max speed is 54fps with 16v juice. I believe the XTR prd is up to 70fps. I have found ultra high speed overcranking rarely used anyhow.
Re: lenses however. Please remember that primes are always better for image quality and they can be extremely fast. I just purchased an Angenieux 1 inch that is wide open at .95 wow!
I agree that you most certainly want to buy a camera that has always been used. Im having my ZM II completely cleaned and overhauled at Duall for around $ 300. It is well worth it however to have a reliable and accurate unit.
Re: another posters discussion about collimating. I really dont understand this comment. I thought most of the time collimating is required when a lens is being converted for another use ie reg 16 to super 16 etc. Does anyone have any ideas?
Re: lenses however. Please remember that primes are always better for image quality and they can be extremely fast. I just purchased an Angenieux 1 inch that is wide open at .95 wow!
I agree that you most certainly want to buy a camera that has always been used. Im having my ZM II completely cleaned and overhauled at Duall for around $ 300. It is well worth it however to have a reliable and accurate unit.
Re: another posters discussion about collimating. I really dont understand this comment. I thought most of the time collimating is required when a lens is being converted for another use ie reg 16 to super 16 etc. Does anyone have any ideas?
Well, I didn't mean to say "never", just be carefull, don't pay too much, or let your self go because of that.. ..paul wrote:
Further I would advise you never to buy cameras on e bay which are said to be "never used" or "out of the box" because the chances that these cameras have defects are generally bigger than those cams which are used regularly and have been serviced.
Paul
Paul
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4008ZM4 was only delivered from factory with the Schneider 1,4/6-70. The internal filter was in the camera body as usual. But in cameras with serial number over 505729 it was fitted in lens as in 6008S cameras. This cameras with the filter in lens, was produced parallel with 6008S for some years, before 6008Pro come in production. There aren´t so many of this late 4008ZM4 out there, who don´t have a internal filter in the camera body.
internal filters: the filters can be removed in the service and replaced with filters to place in front of the lens.
collimnation: is always neccessary!!! The tolerances are so small, that any "new" lens must be adjusted to the individual camera body. F.e., you cannot use several bodys with one and the same lens, but several "adjusted" lenses with one and the same body. Collimantion adjustments are cheap and ease in the service, no reason to bother, but neccessary for really sharp results.
Pedro
collimnation: is always neccessary!!! The tolerances are so small, that any "new" lens must be adjusted to the individual camera body. F.e., you cannot use several bodys with one and the same lens, but several "adjusted" lenses with one and the same body. Collimantion adjustments are cheap and ease in the service, no reason to bother, but neccessary for really sharp results.
Pedro
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Why remove the internal filter? Behind the shutter, this filter is well protected against "dirty fingers". If there is some wrong with the filter when it comes to service, it´s cheaper to change it, than bye a new screw-on filter. Most of people who talks about "remowing filter" can´t supply their customer with new internal filters, for them it´s easier to say how good this is. If this filter is remowed you also have to adjust mecanicaly the distance between film-plane and the C-mount!!!! Also the expometer has to be readjusted, now the expometer will work thru the filter.