I have always been very strict about only shooting manual when Im out with my 16mm camera(Scoopic 16M), but I used to barrow a good light meter which I dont have anymore so i was wondering, If I go out and shoot Auto, will the result be much worse? I think the built in light meter on the scoopic 16m is pretty good and fast. I just wanted to check it out here with you guys before I use any film on auto modus.
I dont know what f-stop to use under what conditions yet so good, because im pretty new to it so it would be easy to shoot auto before I get money to a lightmeter. I guess Auto will be ok as long as i dont move the camera round to much at different lightsources because then you will clearly see the light changes which dont look so good.
Could use some tips on it. Can you really trust a built in lightmeter?
THanks
Shooting Auto=Very bad??
Moderator: Andreas Wideroe
I have just finished shooting some test rolls of k40, I'm new to film, although not to video so I know a thing or two about light meters.
The usual method when using the in-camera light meter is to zoom in (or get as close to) the subject of interest in your frame and take a reading from that and lock the exposure on the camera. Then zoom out and shoot. The more reliable way to do this is to buy an 18% grey card and zoom in on that each time to take a reading, lock it and shoot. The light meter always looks for middle grey from which to meter. Do this for every shot if you are moving things around. Light changes minute by minute so you need to take a reading at the beginning of every shot.
Shoot a test roll first and record every setting on the camera for every shot in a notebook or on a laptop or however you want to document it. Then, when you get the processed roll back, check each scene against your notes. I think every camera has its own quirks and you will come to recognize what they are but only if you document what you are doing with the camera while shooting. You'll soon develop a sense for what the camera can and can't do.
II'm sure others will have things to add to this but that's my 2 cents anyway.
Hope this helps,
Steven
The usual method when using the in-camera light meter is to zoom in (or get as close to) the subject of interest in your frame and take a reading from that and lock the exposure on the camera. Then zoom out and shoot. The more reliable way to do this is to buy an 18% grey card and zoom in on that each time to take a reading, lock it and shoot. The light meter always looks for middle grey from which to meter. Do this for every shot if you are moving things around. Light changes minute by minute so you need to take a reading at the beginning of every shot.
Shoot a test roll first and record every setting on the camera for every shot in a notebook or on a laptop or however you want to document it. Then, when you get the processed roll back, check each scene against your notes. I think every camera has its own quirks and you will come to recognize what they are but only if you document what you are doing with the camera while shooting. You'll soon develop a sense for what the camera can and can't do.
II'm sure others will have things to add to this but that's my 2 cents anyway.
Hope this helps,
Steven
The built in light meter on the Scoopic is one of the best, Very accurate.
Before I bought my Gossen Luna Pro light meter, I only used the one built into the Scoopic. The only problem I had with it was that it occasionally exposed for a different part of the frame(ie-I was shooting in a forest up to my subjects face and the meter would try to expose for the sky). This was my own fault and not the cameras. If you wish to shooting using the cameras meter and want to properly expose your subject in front of a very light or dark background, bring the camera right up close to the subject point the meter at the subject to get a reading and then put the camera into manual mode. The built in meter has a really wide angle of view. So you need to get close to the subject to single it out.
Simon.
Before I bought my Gossen Luna Pro light meter, I only used the one built into the Scoopic. The only problem I had with it was that it occasionally exposed for a different part of the frame(ie-I was shooting in a forest up to my subjects face and the meter would try to expose for the sky). This was my own fault and not the cameras. If you wish to shooting using the cameras meter and want to properly expose your subject in front of a very light or dark background, bring the camera right up close to the subject point the meter at the subject to get a reading and then put the camera into manual mode. The built in meter has a really wide angle of view. So you need to get close to the subject to single it out.
Zooming in to get a reading won't work with the Scoopic as its light meter is not TTL(through the lens) it is external.disjecta wrote:The usual method when using the in-camera light meter is to zoom in (or get as close to) the subject of interest in your frame and take a reading from that and lock the exposure on the camera. Then zoom out and shoot.
Steven
Simon.
Thanks alot for those tips! Understand very clearly now on how to go forward without a lightmeter.
One more quik question, when you shoot with the Scoopic 16M, does the film intend move inside the camera so the sides of the frame get's like wiggly or shakin when you watch it later? Because when I first filmed with it I used a tripod all the time and when I got it back transferd It was shaking. Is It normal for the 16M model?
It could be because I got it very bad transferd, he used a camcorder and projector of some kind to film it of so It would get on a dv-tape. Resulting in very bad quality, the film was even negative when he did it!
Thanks again!
One more quik question, when you shoot with the Scoopic 16M, does the film intend move inside the camera so the sides of the frame get's like wiggly or shakin when you watch it later? Because when I first filmed with it I used a tripod all the time and when I got it back transferd It was shaking. Is It normal for the 16M model?
It could be because I got it very bad transferd, he used a camcorder and projector of some kind to film it of so It would get on a dv-tape. Resulting in very bad quality, the film was even negative when he did it!
Thanks again!
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Check out this: Canon Scoopic
My guess is that it is pretty accurate. The Canon Scoopic / DS8 / 814/1014 XL-S and AE-1 all used the same technology. Should be as bullet proof as Auto goes.
R
My guess is that it is pretty accurate. The Canon Scoopic / DS8 / 814/1014 XL-S and AE-1 all used the same technology. Should be as bullet proof as Auto goes.
R
..tnx for reminding me Michael Lehnert.... or Santo or.... cinematography.com super8 - the forum of Rednex, Wannabees and Pretenders...
My older Scoopic is very steady
I have the first model Scoopic and I've not seen that. I've seen some problem with regulating the motor speed, particularly when using the thicker Fomapan films, and I've seen an overexposed frame show up unexpectedly. But on a tripod my Scoopic seems to be VERY steady. Perhaps some service is necessary??Marius wrote:One more quik question, when you shoot with the Scoopic 16M, does the film intend move inside the camera so the sides of the frame get's like wiggly or shakin when you watch it later?