Super 8 Movielites!
Moderator: Andreas Wideroe
Super 8 Movielites!
Hi, has anyone shot much using a Movielite, any advice on how to get good results? Thanx.
Re: Super 8 Movielites!
you will most likely get best results if you place the light away from the camera, of course you can't always do this (like in some documentary style settings) and the lights were designed to be camera mounted. When you have the light mounted on the camera you get very flat lighting.hoe wrote:Hi, has anyone shot much using a Movielite, any advice on how to get good results? Thanx.
What kind of situation will you be in that you need extra light for? or is this just something you are thinking about getting to add to your camera kit.
~Jess
hi jess, yes I was wondering about that, the movielite seems like a cross between a paglite and a mizer or something. i thought it might be useful for shooting the odd thing indoors with K40 but i wasn't sure what kind of results you would get with the movielite mounted on the camera as is recommended paglite-style.. but then i can't imagine it doing a wonderful job on its own on a tripod either! at the moment it's not particularly important footage, but would still like the advice of anyone who has been down this road before! thanks.
If a movie light is correctly color balanced then it should work great as a light source if you mount it on a tripod or something instead of the camera, even better try using a couple of them, If you are shooting during the day and have light comming in through windows get a blue gel for it, the movielights made to mount on top of the camera might still not give you enough light to get a good exposure if it is your only light source (with a non XL camera 3 500watt's barely gave me enough light to shoot ektachrome (125 ASA)) but it is something to play around with and see what works. Hardware stores sell worklights (usually 500Watts) that work well, there was a previous thread about them that you should check out if you are going to get some.
For lighting try putting your main light (the Key light) at about a 45 degree angle from your camera facing at your subject (does that make any sense?) and if you have a stand high enough try and put it at about a 45 degree angle facing down at them. Then put another light that is not as strong (due to it being less powerful, farther away or some sort of bounced or filtered light) on the other side of the camera to fill in the shadows created by your key light (This is the Fill light), If you have a 3rd light you can try putting it behind and to the side or above your subject facing at them (but not into the camera) to help distinguish them from the backgorund(This is a backlight, also has many other names). Just play around and see what creates a look that you like. This is your basic three point lighting setup, it can be a lot of work, but the point is to create a good look with the light and not just to get an exposure, A camera mounted light will do a good job at giving you an exposure without many shadows, but has a very flat look that is normally not desired. If you don't have enough lights for a 3 light setup then just play with what you have, you can also use reflectors (white posterboard, cardoard covered with foil or the silver reflectors put in car windshields work great) to create fill or even key light (especially good when shooting outside in the sun)
~Jess
For lighting try putting your main light (the Key light) at about a 45 degree angle from your camera facing at your subject (does that make any sense?) and if you have a stand high enough try and put it at about a 45 degree angle facing down at them. Then put another light that is not as strong (due to it being less powerful, farther away or some sort of bounced or filtered light) on the other side of the camera to fill in the shadows created by your key light (This is the Fill light), If you have a 3rd light you can try putting it behind and to the side or above your subject facing at them (but not into the camera) to help distinguish them from the backgorund(This is a backlight, also has many other names). Just play around and see what creates a look that you like. This is your basic three point lighting setup, it can be a lot of work, but the point is to create a good look with the light and not just to get an exposure, A camera mounted light will do a good job at giving you an exposure without many shadows, but has a very flat look that is normally not desired. If you don't have enough lights for a 3 light setup then just play with what you have, you can also use reflectors (white posterboard, cardoard covered with foil or the silver reflectors put in car windshields work great) to create fill or even key light (especially good when shooting outside in the sun)
~Jess
For indoor shooting with artificial light and K40 in mide size rooms, I always used the following setup with best results:
- a 2000 W keylight (2x1000W double reflector with fan)
- a 1000 W fill-in light (1x1000W single reflector with fan)
- a 1000 W effect light occasionally
- a 300 W camera light
The movielights are cheap at second hand stores and out off ebay. In my living room, I keep the first three ones mounted at the walls, so it´s only switch on and start shooting.
Note that the watt number not always is significant for the exposuring result. The reflecting angle of the reflector is what determins the amount of light for shooting as well as the electical power consumption.
F.e., my 300 W camera light is so well adjusted, that it combines very well with the 2000 W key light. Before, I had 650 W camera light that was less brighter than the 300 W I am using now!
I never used work lights, but I assume that their reflecting angle is far to large to get the best out of the lamp.
The color temp is no problem, as long as it´s halogen, it will combine perfectly with un-filtered K40.
For mobile use, a projector lamp (12V/75...100 W with mirror) works very well when connected to a lead battery (12V/2...4 Ah) in a belt bag, or to the car battery.
Pedro
- a 2000 W keylight (2x1000W double reflector with fan)
- a 1000 W fill-in light (1x1000W single reflector with fan)
- a 1000 W effect light occasionally
- a 300 W camera light
The movielights are cheap at second hand stores and out off ebay. In my living room, I keep the first three ones mounted at the walls, so it´s only switch on and start shooting.
Note that the watt number not always is significant for the exposuring result. The reflecting angle of the reflector is what determins the amount of light for shooting as well as the electical power consumption.
F.e., my 300 W camera light is so well adjusted, that it combines very well with the 2000 W key light. Before, I had 650 W camera light that was less brighter than the 300 W I am using now!
I never used work lights, but I assume that their reflecting angle is far to large to get the best out of the lamp.
The color temp is no problem, as long as it´s halogen, it will combine perfectly with un-filtered K40.
For mobile use, a projector lamp (12V/75...100 W with mirror) works very well when connected to a lead battery (12V/2...4 Ah) in a belt bag, or to the car battery.
Pedro