Sniper question roger

[Scotness]

Hi Roger

Just wondering - the camera you're using on the unit is a broadcast one with 700+ horizontal lines (so correct me if I'm misunderstanding this) but that's 700 pixels on the vertical or Y axis - and an unspecified amount on the x axis.

So given that PAL for instance is 720 by 576 (X by Y axiis) would there be any value in turning the video camera on it's side by 90 degrees - so that you're turning those 700+ lines into 720 pixels (rather than scaling them down to 576) and whatever the X value is to 576 pixels (I assume that the X value on the video camera is alot less than 700+ and perhaps then a closer fit to 576 or whatever NTSC is on that axis (is that 480)

Maybe I'm making some obvious/embarassing mistake here but what do you think?

Scot

[MovieStuff]

Just wondering - the camera you're using on the unit is a broadcast one with 700+ horizontal lines (so correct me if I'm misunderstanding this) but that's 700 pixels on the vertical or Y axis - and an unspecified amount on the x axis.

NTSC is always 525 lines on the vertical axis so there's no need to specify. But the NTSC standard is 720x486 anyway so there's some discrepancy there anyway. How many times can I say "anyway"? Too lazy to edit. Too early. Must have hot tea.....(I'm a whimp).

So given that PAL for instance is 720 by 576 (X by Y axiis) would there be any value in turning the video camera on it's side by 90 degrees

I don't think so. I mean, the camera already fits pretty good horizontally to PAL but the bigger problem is that the pixels are not square but rectangular and are oriented 90 degrees to that of PAL's rectangular pixels. Too early in the morning for me to think in geometric terms.

But one thing I HAD considered was turning the camera on it's side and using it to create two halves of a frame to double the resolution. I had talked to DigVid about this sometime back, wondering if some software could take the two halves and seam them together to create one larger picture with higher resolution. I would have to create a cam that swung the camera precisely into two different positions on a nodal point head but I believe it would work but probably not worth the trouble and there's always the possiblility that the seam would show, no matter how careful the alignment.

Roger

[Corey D.]

I have a Sniper question too, but it doesn't have to do with Scott's.

You said you don't transfer negative because the dirt and dust shows up more because it's white. Well, what if you attached a cloth at the top of the gate that the film could run through? Just a cloth, no solution. Would that be bad for the film to run the film through without any cleaner?

Just a thought

Corey

[CHAS]

I have a Sniper question too, but it doesn't have to do with Scott's.

You said you don't transfer negative because the dirt and dust shows up more because it's white. Well, what if you attached a cloth at the top of the gate that the film could run through? Just a cloth, no solution. Would that be bad for the film to run the film through without any cleaner?

Just a thought

Corey

Corey,
a few months back there was a Workprinter owner in L.A. who was going to start up shop transferring negative S8 -- that was going to be his main business. Don't know if he is still lurking around this forum or if he is still setting the unit up.

[MovieStuff]

Transferring neg is just a pain, in general. With reversal, you have a pretty good idea of what the final image is *supposed* to look like. Even with a chip chart, there are a LOT of variations on color that a client might prefer and it's kind of hard to predict what they really are looking for. Between the cleaning and second guessing the color issues, we'd just as soon let someone else handle neg, thank you.

As far as the cleaning cloth on the unit, I've considered that but am always paranoid about letting anything rub against the film.

Roger

[studiocarter]

Roger,
How about passing the film through an electric field? Dust particles and hairs would jump to one side or the other. I've heard of static electric film cleaners.
Would an air jet work just before the film went in?
Then again there are the projectionists pages where I heard of a wet film cleaner that stays wet on the film during projection. Supposed to make it last a looooong time and look great. That may work on Negative. Can't remember the name, though. Those guys would know.
But that may be directions to look into neg transfers that stay clean.
Michael