Regular 8mm Tri-X is now available

[silverhalide]

Thanks, Andre.

Foma products are available in the US, from B&H and Freestyle. I'll be sure to include Foma in my list of links.

I've had a hard time getting Foma processed correctly at the rated ASA in the US. I usually get results like this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RS1z0n1aWgM

Bright parts of the film have an odd brown halo...like I'm under nuclear attack.

[aj]

I don't see that much brown but it looks bit like improper/insufficient bleaching. I had something like that when I tried to reuse the Permanganate bleach on a second film. Even without that much time between film it was not working that much any longer So I stick with single-shot usage when using the Fomapan Reversal kit. That is what it is supposed to used like. If I only could get these kits at Prague prices

I used to have a friend who was a frequent traveller to the East as a collectioneur. He brought numerous kits and films along but unfortunately he is no longer with us. Still miss his character and presence.

[silverhalide]

My mistake...it doesn't look brown on a monochrome transfer. It's brown when projected, though. Here's a better scan of the same problem.

https://youtu.be/wEwvFWURe4A?t=107

Cinelab in Boston seems to be able to process Foma correctly. The roll(s) I sent there seemed a little dirty. I'm not sure if that was due to the lab or the film manufacturer.

[aj]

The bleach is the tricky part on the Fomapan R100. The film has a peculiar anti-halation which must be cleared by the bleach. It results in a gritty substance which muct be washed out fully after the bleach. When not done so the grit may stick to the film and result in speckles on the film. Improper bleach will leave a part of the anti-halation on your film which isn't too pretty when viewing the film Properly processed Fomapan gives the most joyful black-and-white images

[silverhalide]

I really like the fact that it has an anti-halation layer. I think that's a big limitation of TXR. For instance, in this film I was very frustrated with the halos:

https://youtu.be/Gaq2DIHaQaI?t=129

I wish I could get Foma processed properly in the states. Nobody wants to seem to want to devote a machine to it. I suggested to one lab that they just dedicate a tank/rack in their TXR machine to the special foma step, and skip it except for when processing Foma. They could leave it threaded with leader when idle. THAT idea did not go over well.

[aj]

It is understandable that labs will/can not have a processor ready for a limited quantity of film of one brand.

I am not sure how Foma expects the labs to process the ciné film.
Do they advice labs on using machines. How they keep/get the grit out off the bleach?

On a small scale things work best when a spiral tanks is used and where the chemistry is used once.
Plenty of washing after the bleach.

Andec film does Fomapan R. Super8.nl does spiral processing and should work OK.
Likely there are others.

The lame thing is that international shipping has risen so much. Even on the 100 grams envelops.

[silverhalide]

So this is why I'm offering Tri-X - all the labs I know can process it properly. A user can shoot, send to lab, get it back quick and without worrying about proper processing, throw it on a projector and get wonderfully delayed gratification.

[Wade]

So I stick with single-shot usage when using the Fomapan Reversal kit. That is what it is supposed to used like.

a FOMAPAN pdf. (http://www.freestylephoto.biz/pdf/produ ... maR100.pdf) describes their own bleach formula as a Potasium Dichromate. I'm assuming the bleach gets exhausted/contaminated quickly because the FOMA film is so silver-rich? Is that true? Elsewhere, most comments about Pot. dichromate are that it lasts a long time, or indefinitely if it is filtered (with a funnel filter???) and toped off with unused bleach. I've recently used the FOMA FB2, which I mixed myself, on three 25' rolls of R100. I don't know if I can use it again, or if its time to throw it out. Any thoughts??

[aj]

The Fomapan Reversal kit comes with Kalium Permanganate bleach. It detoriates to the air rather quickly. So mix and use need to be close in time.
Dichromate bleach hasn't available in ready made kits for years. You would have to get/assemble your own Please mind that the immediate danger is in the strong acid. The dichromate might become a problem when you inhale or snort it too much (for some unknown reason ) Only in labs mice get sick after having been fed considerable amounts for long times.

I suppose the Dichromate bleach dissolves the anti-halation layer just like the Permanganate. Before reusing the bath you would need to filter it properly. Most important is to wash well after bleaching the Fomapan R100 film.

[mosesfilm]

Film Cartridgesresize2.jpg

Anyone interested in custom loads of Fomapan R100 and ORWO UN54 Super 8 Cartridges??? Soon to be sold on Ebay. Ill keep you posted!

[mosesfilm]

Hello,
I have also struggled with this halo effect in the past. With the older vintages of this film, the bleaching bath is specific.The use of a sulfuric acid/potassium dichromate bleach instead of a permanganate bleach will eliminate this effect.

[mosesfilm]

Film Cartridgesresize2.jpg

I now have Fomapan R100 & ORWO UN54 Super 8mm cartridges on sale at Ebay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fomapan-R100-Su ... Swvg9XfROu
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ORWO-UN54-Super ... Swkl5XfSBl