Lomo tank processing

[pip]

I wonder if anyone can help me with a problem I am having with the Lomo tank. I am loading super 8 film in the tank successfully. However, I believe that the processing solution is not penetrating uniformly into the the grooves of the spiral. Consequently, the edge of the film which comprises the sprocket holes is not at all times being processed? This happens irregularly along the length of the film. Possibly, the groove in which the film sits is insufficiently wide to allow the processing solution to access the film completely or possibly I am not agitating the film with sufficient vigour? This should not present a problem if the solution fails to attach itself only to that part of the film which is outside the picture area. However, the problem is also carrying over into the edge of the picture area.

I can see this problem more obviously with film processed to a negative image. I assume that since the area outside the picure area is not exposed to light when filming, that it should then be unaffected by the processing and should then be clear after fixing. However, sections of the edge of the film are alternatively clear or dark. I do not understand these dark areas at all - since they were not originally exposed to light - so I must be missing something!

[nikonr10]

I wonder if anyone can help me with a problem I am having with the Lomo tank. I am loading super 8 film in the tank successfully. However, I believe that the processing solution is not penetrating uniformly into the the grooves of the spiral. Consequently, the edge of the film which comprises the sprocket holes is not at all times being processed? This happens irregularly along the length of the film. Possibly, the groove in which the film sits is insufficiently wide to allow the processing solution to access the film completely or possibly I am not agitating the film with sufficient vigour? This should not present a problem if the solution fails to attach itself only to that part of the film which is outside the picture area. However, the problem is also carrying over into the edge of the picture area.

I can see this problem more obviously with film processed to a negative image. I assume that since the area outside the picure area is not exposed to light when filming, that it should then be unaffected by the processing and should then be clear after fixing. However, sections of the edge of the film are alternatively clear or dark. I do not understand these dark areas at all - since they were not originally exposed to light - so I must be missing something!

Hi there a small hole in the black spiral holder that hold the film reels , Can let light in best to tape that small hole up .

[richard p. t.]

Hi
I suspect you are loading the spiral with the film's emulsion facing in. You need to wind with the emulsion out. Otherwise the edge of the film in the track touches the track on its emulsion side and trends to miss the chemistry. In 16mm that isn't usually a problem (unless you are doing super 16 or processing a print with a sound track and don't have the sprocket hole down). But in super 8 it can be a problem.
Cheers
Richard

[pip]

That's brilliant, Richard. That should solve my problem. I had assumed keeping the sprocket holes down was sufficient. Thanks again.

[milesandjules]

The other think i thought that might be happening is….. are you putting enough chemicals to fully cover the film while in the tank?

[pip]

I think there are sufficient chemicals going into the tank. The problem has arisen around the sprocket holes which are at the lowest point.

Another query, however, is the processing time. I have been developing black and white film to a negative image with 6 minutes processing, but I read that Tri X will need 12 minutes initial processing if following the reversal route.

[nikonr10]

I think there are sufficient chemicals going into the tank. The problem has arisen around the sprocket holes which are at the lowest point.

Another query, however, is the processing time. I have been developing black and white film to a negative image with 6 minutes processing, but I read that Tri X will need 12 minutes initial processing if following the reversal route.

I do around six mins then for the 2nd around 2mins . What bleach bath will you be using ? As that makes all the difference ,
why would you want to give it 12 mins as 1st processing ?

[aj]

I think there are sufficient chemicals going into the tank. The problem has arisen around the sprocket holes which are at the lowest point.

Another query, however, is the processing time. I have been developing black and white film to a negative image with 6 minutes processing, but I read that Tri X will need 12 minutes initial processing if following the reversal route.

I do around six mins then for the 2nd around 2mins . What bleach bath will you be using ? As that makes all the difference ,
why would you want to give it 12 mins as 1st processing ?

First developer is most important to achieve proper density. So time and temperature there are the most influential.

[pip]

I had taken 12 minutes from information provided on-line by Ilford for reversal processing. Six minutes then seems the right time for Tri X. I will be using the Foma kit - the Foma bleach is a combination of potassium dichromate and sulphuric acid. I am not aware of any other appropriate bleach on the market.

[aj]

I had taken 12 minutes from information provided on-line by Ilford for reversal processing. Six minutes then seems the right time for Tri X. I will be using the Foma kit - the Foma bleach is a combination of potassium dichromate and sulphuric acid. I am not aware of any other appropriate bleach on the market.

There no longer is a commercial offering of Dichromatic bleach. The fomakit doesn't contain dichromate.

You would have to mix that from raw chemicals. Which are available only to professionals. The main advantage of Dichromatic bleach is that it doesn't age where potassium bleach ages by the minute

[nikonr10]

I had taken 12 minutes from information provided on-line by Ilford for reversal processing. Six minutes then seems the right time for Tri X. I will be using the Foma kit - the Foma bleach is a combination of potassium dichromate and sulphuric acid. I am not aware of any other appropriate bleach on the market.

There no longer is a commercial offering of Dichromatic bleach. The fomakit doesn't contain dichromate.

You would have to mix that from raw chemicals. Which are available only to professionals. The main advantage of Dichromatic bleach is that it doesn't age where potassium bleach ages by the minute

The kind of bleach that is or was available , And the joy's of the fomakit Or not? is in pass post's , The Foma bleach is not the best for Tri X film .
If you check pass post's you will see why .
The Bleach is the big one ? took me years to find away around it ? At the most would only do {1 dev , 6 min's / 8min"s} for Tri X . my note's .
The whole thing with home cooking is you learn as you go on? with mistake 's keep note's so you know for next time . frank at super8.nl has a good starting point .
I hope this helps .

[aj]

I had taken 12 minutes from information provided on-line by Ilford for reversal processing. Six minutes then seems the right time for Tri X. I will be using the Foma kit - the Foma bleach is a combination of potassium dichromate and sulphuric acid. I am not aware of any other appropriate bleach on the market.

There no longer is a commercial offering of Dichromatic bleach. The fomakit doesn't contain dichromate.

You would have to mix that from raw chemicals. Which are available only to professionals. The main advantage of Dichromatic bleach is that it doesn't age where potassium bleach ages by the minute

The kind of bleach that is or was available , And the joy's of the fomakit Or not? is in pass post's , The Foma bleach is not the best for Tri X film .
If you check pass post's you will see why .
The Bleach is the big one ? took me years to find away around it ? At the most would only do {1 dev , 6 min's / 8min"s} for Tri X . my note's .
The whole thing with home cooking is you learn as you go on? with mistake 's keep note's so you know for next time . frank at super8.nl has a good starting point .
I hope this helps .

Maybe you need to spend more time on writing a message. It is incomprehendable with this staccato of random sentences. And why all these questionmarks? Is your keyboard broken?

The Fomakit works fine on any black and white film. It only needs a bit more time and the bleach doesn't last.

There is no need for trial-and-error. Just follow the recipes and timesheet then all will be fine.

[pip]

The Foma timings are: 1st development 9-10 minutes; bleach 5 minutes; 2nd development 9 minutes; fix 9 minutes. Do you think these are correct for Tri X?

[richard p. t.]

With the foma developer, yes, use those times.
Note, I have never used the foma developer (!) but the fact is, different developers require different development times, and Fomapan processes for the normal (ie Tri-x) time in kodak developer.

[pdelrosario]

My struggles with Tri-x + permanganate + Kodak times might be of use. Am wondering how it would work with Foma r100.

http://youtu.be/JAPDs_-HF58