3d printed super8 cartridge asa plug

[milesandjules]

http://www.123dapp.com/123D_Design/Thic ... ol/3098891

Something like that? I just guessed the thickness of 100ft :oops:

[slashmaster]

Yeah, something like it, but if the center of that hub is solid it will really eat through your roll of plastic, not to mention take a long time to print. You've gotta open it up with spokes. Also the piece on the right needs windows so you know how much film is on it. Leaving the other side without windows might be a good idea if you're going to store it laying down because you don't want the film to sag in the windows. It might be hard to perfect but would be great if you can put self grabbing fingers that automatically grab the film when you rewind such as this http://super8data.com/database/reels_li ... _400ft.htm

[milesandjules]

Yeah can add some spokes. The middle core is hollow on the underside ya probably can't see it unless its in 3d mode. Yep agreed windows on the side will help to see what the film is doing. Will have another crack it it on the weekend. 8)

[slashmaster]

Yeah can add some spokes. The middle core is hollow on the underside ya probably can't see it unless its in 3d mode. Yep agreed windows on the side will help to see what the film is doing. Will have another crack it it on the weekend. 8)

I see what you did now. I'm afraid that might cave in if you tried to print that though. Maybe you should have spokes in the core?

[milesandjules]

The 3d printer software prints support material(like little scaffolds) for the over hangs .These snap off once its printed…you don't have to worry about it caving in or anything. Also you can set areas that are drawn thick to print as a honeycomb hollow interior so it uses less filament.

[milesandjules]

http://www.123dapp.com/123D_Design/thic ... -2/3112825

im printing now so will see what happens 8O

[Maurizio Di Cintio]

Hi!
Wonderful job!
Could you supply these ASA plugs to me? I'd like to have a 50, 100, 200, 400 ASA set with a filter override plug as well. Do they fit Agfa cartridges, too?
Thank you

[slashmaster]

Hi!
Wonderful job!
Could you supply these ASA plugs to me? I'd like to have a 50, 100, 200, 400 ASA set with a filter override plug as well. Do they fit Agfa cartridges, too?
Thank you

Sawing off the 10 asa one will work too.

[slashmaster]

http://www.123dapp.com/123D_Design/thic ... -2/3112825

im printing now so will see what happens 8O

That doesn't look bad at all! I know what you mean about those temporary tabs. Looking forward to seeing it! Is it a tight fit on your projector? Does it wobble when it turns?

[nikonr10]

Hi!
Wonderful job!
Could you supply these ASA plugs to me? I'd like to have a 50, 100, 200, 400 ASA set with a filter override plug as well. Do they fit Agfa cartridges, too?
Thank you

Sawing off the 10 asa one will work too.

Miles ,I think you got anew job As a printer come wizard here, great job ! let me know when my batch is ready , and keep up them designs ,

[milesandjules]

Thanks guys... pm me if you want some of the asa plugs and I will print some off for ya they weigh next to nothing so can go in an envelope no sweat Not sure if they will fit a agfa cartridge but you can always compare it to a kodachrome cart and then you will know if it fits or not.

Here is some pix of the printed spool.

Well it worked fine….the film fits on the reel fine…all good. No wobbles on the projector and the fit is snug. The only mod I need to make is make the inner core maybe 5mm diameter smaller so the edge of the reel has more lip. This 120mm reel size is the largest my printer can handle. But seems like a good size for 50ft or 100ft rolls of film once the core is a bitt smaller. I will amend the stl files and post them as two separate files for printing. I printed these guys standing up in the printer so your able to print both parts of the spool at once

[slashmaster]

Very nice to see the real world one! Congratulations! So You mean you printed both reel pieces at the same time standing up? But had a whole bunch of that temporary bridge scaffolding stuff that you had to break off? Regardless I'm glad it worked! It's not as pretty as I was hoping but if I tried printing them laying down one at a time maybe it would look a little better. By the way, just so you don't chew up your film, you do realize the sprocket hole side should be on the other side of the projector right?

[milesandjules]

Yep the 3d printing finish can be a challenge…if you want it really pretty, you can give the prints a acetone gas in a rice cooker…that actually makes the print layers glue together to be stronger and gives the print a glossy finish. I'm still experimenting with at…as are all people playing with these printers. :oops:

Yep i printed them standing upright. It has two advantages and one disadvantage. Printing it upright means the raft/scafold that the print is sitting on is easier to remove cause it doesn't get baked on by the printers bed temperature(well only at the very tip of one part of the spool). You also have the advantage of printing multiples of long skinny things at once. The disadvantage is because the layers are built on top of each other they can snap more easily. printing the model with it laying down is stronger for this shaped item…. but harder to remove the raft which the print sits on because of bed heat.
Getting technical here but thought you might be interested.

Going to do up some more of these spools for 16mm and 35mm film swell. Cause 8mm,16mm and 35 spools are rather hard to find here in oz and even on ebay i see.

Yep also the film is on that way for the retro 8 ..its sprocket is in the inside.

[slashmaster]

Yep the 3d printing finish can be a challenge…if you want it really pretty, you can give the prints a acetone gas in a rice cooker…that actually makes the print layers glue together to be stronger and gives the print a glossy finish. I'm still experimenting with at…as are all people playing with these printers. :oops:

Yep i printed them standing upright. It has two advantages and one disadvantage. Printing it upright means the raft/scafold that the print is sitting on is easier to remove cause it doesn't get baked on by the printers bed temperature(well only at the very tip of one part of the spool). You also have the advantage of printing multiples of long skinny things at once. The disadvantage is because the layers are built on top of each other they can snap more easily. printing the model with it laying down is stronger for this shaped item…. but harder to remove the raft which the print sits on because of bed heat.
Getting technical here but thought you might be interested.

Going to do up some more of these spools for 16mm and 35mm film swell. Cause 8mm,16mm and 35 spools are rather hard to find here in oz and even on <A class=vglnk href="http://www.ebay.com" rel=nofollow target=_blank vglnk_1097011017281="11"><SPAN>ebay</SPAN></A> i see.

Yep also the film is on that way for the retro 8 ..its sprocket is in the inside.

Get as technical as you want! So that machine you had it on is a retro 8 huh? Was wondering what that was. If you're going to build a 16mm reel from scratch too there is a problem they almost all have that you should solve. Every quarter turn they do they bounce because of the slop between the hole and the projectors spindle. The slop gets progressively worse with use too. I had a 2000 foot goldberg takeup reel I gave away as someones wall decoration because of that problem. You should make the square hole a little too small but able to spring open so it will fit with no slop at all! You know what I mean? You should have a long slot going through 2 of the oposite corners of the square. So it can be printed with no additional moving parts.

[milesandjules]

Yep think i know what ya mean…will measure with callipers to get as accurate as possible.