Ektachrome 100D questions

[SurlaCraque]

So I recently acquired a Bolex B8 to get into shooting regular 8mm (I've shot a few carts of Super 8 in the past). I got the camera fixed and CLA'd by bolexrepair.com and I thought I'd be able to get some 50ASA color reversal film to shoot with, but I was mistaken. The only color reversal film I could find was Wittnerchrome 100D from Dwayne's Photo for $30 roll - ouch. I got a couple rolls b/c what choice did I have. I assume it is actually Kodak Ektachrome 100D rebranded by Wittner.

So I want to use my cute new jewel to shoot outdoors this summer, including some scenes at the beach. By checking with an exposure meter and the handy Bolex exposure guide card that came with my camera, it seems I'm going to want to stop down the aperture as far as f22. I'm a bit concerned for a couple of reasons. For one, my wide angle lens only goes to f16! Even on the lenses I can get to f22, that is an extreme setting; I'd get max depth of field whether I want it or not, and my understanding is that many lenses don't perform at their best at f22 - maybe that's not the case with these little D mount cine lenses, I don't know. Since these cameras were designed and sold in an era when 12 and 25 ASA films were common, I guess it makes sense that 100 ASA is a little bit too fast for brightly lit scenes. How do you find 100D works in bright outdoors scenes?

Do you:
- shoot stopped down and don't worry about it.
- use a ND filter - not so easy to find for 60 year old lens.
- pull in processing - expensive though, and I'm not sure how well E-6 film responds to overexposure, my guess is "not very".

My camera is the variable shutter version so I could open up a stop by closing down the shutter, but my understanding is that will produced a strobe effect.

[kontrabass888]

There is a 50asa reversal film available at kahl.de and the price is including the processing.

[doug]

I think i'd maybe find a screw-in or push-on ring for the lens, and buy some ND gelatine filter, cut to fit. If they are the small prime lenses it would be hard indeed to find a glass filter. Otherwise adapt a ring to perhaps take a larger filter 39mm or so. With 16mm 100D I've found I never have to go past f16 in bright conditions, but I am filming at 24 so that cuts down some light, oh and of course the Bolex prism as well. I find 100D works well generally and doesn't mind some over-exposure if that does occur. I also find using the variable shutter to lose some light also works well unless there's fast movement which causes strobing, particularly noticeable when panning.
Haven't tried the Kahl 50asa stuff... how is that ?

[SurlaCraque]

There is a 50asa reversal film available at kahl.de and the price is including the processing.

Thanks for the info, I'm guessing that is Cinechrome 50D. The site is all in German, and even if they sell to the US I guessing would be expensive, and prepaid processing is not helpful since there are several places here in the States that will process. also I already have two rolls of expensive 100D to use.

Need a ND filter. My understanding is that gels are for photo floods and would seriously degrade image quality, not desirable in 8mm! Maybe I can close the shutter half way between 1/35 and 1/70 to close out half a stop of light. I'm asumming that the shutter is infinitely variable with no set stops.

[doug]

Need a ND filter. My understanding is that gels are for photo floods and would seriously degrade image quality, not desirable in 8mm! Maybe I can close the shutter half way between 1/35 and 1/70 to close out half a stop of light. I'm asumming that the shutter is infinitely variable with no set stops.

I'm referring to the Wratten gelatine filters you used to get from Kodak specifically for cameras, not lights. Don't Lee or someone still make them ? I guess the position of variable shutter is about that for 1/2 stop. That shouldn't make much strobing if at all. But closing shutter more than that obviously would be useful as well.