Help! New to 8mm film

[PeteMc]

Hi

After collecting Bolex 8mm cameras for a couple of years I have decided to try running some film through some of them. As I know absolutely nothing about filming with movie cameras I wanted to keep it all basic. I stupidly assumed that, as with a lot of older cameras, you just put in the film and guestimated the exposure using the little graphic setting chart on the camera, sunny, cloudy, hazy with relevant guide to aperture setting. So I bought some 'Wittner Chrome 100D' and then I read the original instruction book and my problems started. The instructions for aperture settings only seem to refer to films with ASA ratings of 10 to 40 and I cant find 8mm film of that ASA any where.

So.. Is it possible to get film at the low ratings. If not I would be grateful if anybody could give me an idea how I might set the cameras using the 100ASA film or possibly steer me to any site with simple instructions.

Thanks

[Angus]

I am not sure if 40ASA film is still available for 8mm cameras. For several decades it was the most popular speed for amateur motion picture film, but most of the films of that speed are no longer in production.

100ASA is a bit more than twice as fast. Which means that you have to set the aperture a bit more than one stop smaller. For example, if the conditions or a light meter suggest f5.6 at 40ASA, you will need to close down to f8 - or in fact a bit smaller. If you are using reversal film it's often wise to err on the side of caution, as it's easy to over expose

Bear in mind there are smartphone apps which will give you the basic functions of a light meter. I've tried a few for Android and they all work OK. If you know, or can guess the shutter speed of your camera you can get fairly accurate measurements with such a device. Certainly enough to have a try with your Bolex camears.

[BAC]

If you have one of the Bolex models with a variable shutter you can set it to half closed and expose the film as ASA 50, probably close enough to 40 to get good results. Another option is to get a light meter and determine your exposure that way. This will give you the best results. I use a free iPhone light meter app that works great. Your instruction book should have a chart with shutter speeds at various Frame-Per-Second (FPS) settings. I hope you enjoy it, good luck.

[Mmechanic]

A good solution is that you buy a grey filter or two. Most lenses on ciné cameras have a standard front thread that allow the filter to be screwed on.

On the other hand, there is a double-eight black-and-white film project under way that might come up with lower speeds such as ISO 32 or even less. It’ll be about high resolution stocks for very sharp pictures from the little 8-mm. frame. Pass me a message in case of interest, I’ll keep everybody informed by the contact I have with those gents.

[reluctantfilmmaker]

Hi Pete,

I joined this site 2 years ago to learn the same thing. Couldn’t find an answer, but after shooting over 10 rolls of 8mm on many different cameras, I can tell you exactly what you want to know. This method works only if your camera has a manual setting (so you can adjust the f-stop). A lot of people will say you can’t shoot modern 100 speed on old cameras, but I have found that to be incorrect.

First off, run the camera and listen, does it sound like its working? Then open the camera’s film compartment. Point the lens at light, and look through where the film gets transported, if you see light coming in (the shutter is working) then you know it can probably shoot film.

Clean all crevices, especially the film gate area with a photographic blower. If you have to use compressed air, use it very lightly and not too close to the gate, it can force dust inside.

Now research online to figure out what the shutter speed of the camera is. I’m guessing you don’t have a fancy Bolex because mine actually has a setting for 100 speed film and beyond. After you figure out the shutter speed, download a free light meter app (I use “light meter”) or if you have a real light meter, even better.

For loading, you want to do it in subdued light (not in direct sunlight). I usually do it inside a darkened room with the light off. I also don’t trust the camera to be 100% light tight (since most of these are 50+ years old) so I also tape up the magazine with gaff tape. There are plenty of tutorials online on how to load, so I won’t go into that. Most non Bolex cameras have a safe guard on the spools so you can’t double expose one side, so be careful when you’re flipping the spool over.

Now you’re ready to shoot. I have not shot the new Wittner film yet, I am still using rolls of Ektachrome from my freezer. So for Ektachrome, I overexpose it slightly since nothing is uglier than underexposed slide film! Take your light meter app, set your film speed (100 in this case), and shutter speed (which you researched) and it will tell you what f-stop to use. Set the camera’s f-stop to what your light meter says and you should be ready to go. If you would like to try to overexpose one side to see what comes out better, you can. Remember to compensate for backlight situations and each time you stop and change angles, you will probably have to take new light reading.

Hope this helps, you can check out my first film I shot below. You’ll notice light leaks, because I didn’t tape up the camera the first time.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2vniq35n ... ature=plcp