ADOX Pan-X Reverso notched 64D/100T?

[Andersens Tears]

Hi all.

Has anyone else experienced problems with Adox Pan-X Reverso?

It is a 100 daylight stock, but appears to be notched as 64D/100T.

This is very strange, as it renders the film useless in some super 8 cameras.

I was shooting some in my Nizo 156 macro - a great travel camera.
I realised after I'd shot the roll that the cart was pushing down the one and only notch sensing pin on the camera, meaning that the film was treated as 40ASA. Just over one f-stop overexposed.

Now, the Nizo does 100D brilliantly, if the cart is notched as 100D that is!

I had to cut a new notch with some pliers - oh and here's a tip be careful doing this as the GK film cart (which the Adox is loaded in) comes apart real easy! I nearly pulled one apart just taking off a piece from the notch.
This never happened with Kodak carts!

I would like to shoot Adox in my Canon AF 514 XL-S too, but I think I will have the same problem there. Another camera that does 100D brilliantly, but not if it is notched as 64D/100T....

Anyone else?

[pip]

Have you yet seen the results of your film? I have shot Adox in a standard exposure camera and got correct exposure. However, with monochrome film I find that there is much greater latitude in exposure than with colour film.
Your comments about the cartridge coming apart are interesting. Unlike the Kodak cartridge, I was unable to break open the cartridge for home processing, so that I had to withdraw the film through the opening at the front. If the cartridge comes apart easily, is there a trick to this you could tell me about?

[Andersens Tears]

Hi, well I have just got back the reel that I notch hacked for the camera to read it at 100ASA, and the exposure looks fine.

I've yet to try the overexposed ones. Generally in my experience of Plus-X - overexposure is not so good.

The cart seems to pull apart easily, or it could have just been the one I had - but if you pull the two halves - top and bottom - away from each other - see what happens. You may need to pull the notch half with plyers like I did 8O

[David M. Leugers]

I've yet to try the overexposed ones. Generally in my experience of Plus-X - overexposure is not so good.

Having the over exposed carts pull processed one stop should provide usable footage. It would be great to see how this stock looks pull processed. Sometimes errors, mistakes, mishaps produce interesting results... 8)

[Andersens Tears]

I've yet to try the overexposed ones. Generally in my experience of Plus-X - overexposure is not so good.

Having the over exposed carts pull processed one stop should provide usable footage. It would be great to see how this stock looks pull processed. Sometimes errors, mistakes, mishaps produce interesting results... 8)

Yes, the other option would be to get the pull processed by 1 stop. The results aren't generally that good. The footage is an importnat record of something I do not have the possibilty to shoot again, so I think that on this occasionI will get the rolls processed as negative and transfered to HD.

Thanks for your suggestion ;)

[Lux Lucis]

I, for one, would be interseted in your results. I stumbled upon this forum by searching for information on how the ADOX Pan-X Reverso is notched. I have an idea for a shoot, and the artistic decisions for it was to use ADOX and have it processed by DR-5. Yes, I could probably have it processed cheaper elsewhere, but I liked what DR-5 looks like with ADOX SilverMAX. For DR-5 to process the film, they want it exposed at iso160. I was curious if the film cartridge was notched as 100 daylight, so that it would be 160 tungsten. Which would simplify things, assuming the in-camera meter was still well calibrated. Fortunately, I do get manual control over the aperture and own a light-meter. I just don't know how much light gets lost in the optical path from lens to film. Time to experiment with exposure settings.

Anyhow, on to the reason for my reply. I also came across anotehr forum where the film was discussed and someone at ADOX mentioned that it should be shot in tungsten so that the color correcting filter would not be in the light path. Which made my mind put one and one together. I know that, originally, most films Kodak sold for Super-8 was tungsten balanced. Presumably so that it would be easier on consumers to shoot inside with-out a light eating filter to adjust colors. The cameras are equiped with a filter to use outside, which eats 2/3 stop of light. This means 100 iso inside would be 64 outside. Since it is black and white, there is no reason to shoot it 'balanced for daylight' as color don't matter. So why send the light through a filter pointlessly? Ergo the film being 100 iso and notched to be shot as tungsten. Just don't switch the camera to "Daylight" mode, if you can.

But this also means that when exposing at iso64, the filter is likely also swung unto place, eating 2/3 stop of light. Iso 64 is the filter compensation for metering. Meaning that the exposure is also likely to be correct and not overexposed so long as the filter was not removed from the light path. Only you know the quirks of your camera and how it responds to the notch code.

Like I said, I would be very interested in your trials and results for filming and exposing ADOX Pan-X Reverso. Any information I can find now, informs a better test for exposure when I conduct it. As well as advice from others who has used this film. I am happy to find, here, information on how it is notched. I am willing to renotch it to 100D/160T A-type or 160D G-type, which ever is easier, as well as play with manual controls (in case the meter is no longer spot on). The camera is a hand-me down and I am now pursuing an old dream of hobby film-making, on actual film. Though I am open to digital as well. I just like processes and experiences of all kinds. I also apologize for the very basic information you likely already know and recently ruminated on. But sometimes you need to be reminded of the basics.