Moderator: Andreas Wideroe
No problem Jeremy and thanks for your email, to which I've now replied with an explanation as to why I haven't publically documented my new solution yet.JeremyC wrote: Frank,
Many apologies for a) getting your name wrong and b) mixing your site with another discussion about bounce cards. No excuse on my part.
I hope you do get time to document your new setup.
Jeremy
Thanks... Frank ! And my apologies too. I will look around for a Schneider. Though I think the focal length for my U16 setup needs to be about 80mm. I hadn't considered reversing the lens but maybe as you say this helps. Also closing down a stop or two ? Or more ?RCBasher wrote:I have found the Schneidner - Kreuznac Componon-S 2.8/50 to offer excellent performance for S8 to a 1.3MP 2/3" sensor (6.54um pixel size) If using a very high resolution sensor then these tend to have very small pixel sizes, requiring a significantly higher lens performance. Without a suitable lens, there will be "optical binning" where the same information will fall across several pixels, resulting in a larger file size, slower transfer rates and no more detail. A good example of this would be something like the new 8.8Mpixel Sony sensors. They have a pixel size of around 1.5um, requiring a lens costing about twice as much as the camera to do the sensor justice!doug wrote:Thanks Jeremy, I hadn't seen this site and it looks good. Interesting about the LEDs. Like Ken I was also probably going to use an enlarger lens on the camera. Wonder what other folks think about that. I've heard some seem to be better than macro lenses ? But I think the correct focal length is maybe rather critical.
Frank
Indeed they do Kevin. It's strange when you have a really clean room the dust seems to home in on that piece of filmMitchPerkins wrote: Panasonic, but they both look fantastic. Did you work out a wetgate or other cleaning method during xfer or was the film simply pristine?
Mitch
about to enter the gate.I'm actually using an APO-Componon HM 2.8/40 which I picked up for around £100 - quite a bargain as this is a cracking lens. I was still able to get in close on the Eumig Mk 8 with a 2/3" camera sensor. Reversal is optional for S8 to 2/3" as this is about 1:1. Slight benefit with R8, with 16mm I mount it the normal way around.doug wrote:Thanks... Frank ! And my apologies too. I will look around for a Schneider. Though I think the focal length for my U16 setup needs to be about 80mm. I hadn't considered reversing the lens but maybe as you say this helps. Also closing down a stop or two ? Or more ?
re the 8mm scanning.I used an Eiki Elf ST-1H. Quick mod to add the Hall Effect sensor and replace the lamp with my LED head. Removed the lens and job done in about 30 mins. Left the shutter blade in as my new system has a super fast exposure and all done and dusted well within the first gap after pulldown. Later on I opened out the gate with a small file. Obviously that took somewhat longer!doug wrote: What projector have you used when copying 16mm ?
Does the 'Film-O-Clean' perform well ?
So how and with what are you filming Doug? Even a consumer video camera creates digital images somewhere along the line and any avi file or the like will be digital. As such, a horizontal or vertical flip in post with Avisynth for example will sort the problem and give you the freedom to optimise the mechanics of your scanner.doug wrote:That's interesting Frank. Sounds a very easy mod on the Eiki. I'm hoping my U16 Bolex S311 will do the job, but as I'm not doing digital scanning I have to film from rear of gate to avoid a flopped image.
Ah but it's a film cameraRCBasher wrote:So how and with what are you filming Doug? Even a consumer video camera creates digital images somewhere along the line and any avi file or the like will be digital. As such, a horizontal or vertical flip in post with Avisynth for example will sort the problem and give you the freedom to optimise the mechanics of your scanner.
Yes I suppose so. But surely the same basic principles apply for film or digital capture of images ? Getting the quality as good as possible from the tiny frames of emulsion.granfer wrote:So now we are really getting off-topic.... I think Doug is actually describing a home built optical printer from U16 to 35 mm!
Worth (and should have!) a thread on it's own.
Granfer
Thanks I suppose you're right. I'll maybe do this in a week or so.granfer wrote:That's really the point I'm making.... start your own thread on your Optical Printing project, and you will find contributors interested in Optical Printing that can help with advice and helpful suggestions. THEY won't be reading a thread on Video Transfer... because it's NOT what they are interested in!
Don't hide your light under a bushel!
granfer
But I still think the subject is linked.How do you intend to frame sync your camera and projector together?doug wrote:Ah but it's a film camera
I'm planning to use an Arri 2c so I can enlarge the ultra-16 frame to 35mm 1.85:1. I thought of going from the front but don't really want to introduce mirrors. So I've been hacking off chunks of Bolex projector :evil: in order to accommodate the camera at the rear.
I'm planning to disconnect the projector motor and drive both movements in sync using an Elf at 16fps via flexible shafts from its sprocket spindles to their 1:1 shafts. So actual speed should be slow and exposure friendly. But haven't tested anything yet. All suggestions welcome.RCBasher wrote:How do you intend to frame sync your camera and projector together?doug wrote:Ah but it's a film camera
I'm planning to use an Arri 2c so I can enlarge the ultra-16 frame to 35mm 1.85:1. I thought of going from the front but don't really want to introduce mirrors. So I've been hacking off chunks of Bolex projector :evil: in order to accommodate the camera at the rear.
