I'm completely perplexed by the perfect lack of tungsten still film. If I want to shoot indoors, I have to buy 400 and put a filter on it to get the color right, which takes my EI down to about 160, which is really difficult indoors. My other option is 800ISO graininess. Why is even extremely high speed film all daylight balanced? I'd REEEEEALLLLY rather buy 400ASA tungsten film for my 35mm still camera. Is there anybody doing this? Is there anybody loading 5219 or the like into 35mm still camera carts?
Thanks.
Not a "small gauge" question, but...
Moderator: Andreas Wideroe
Not a "small gauge" question, but...
I may sound stupid, but I hide it well.
http://www.gcmstudio.com
http://www.gcmstudio.com
Re: Not a "small gauge" question, but...
Hi,
if you do refer to colour reversal still films (slides), then you're simply too late as Kodak and Fuji have stopped the production of their tungsten-balanced slide-films last year. However you can still get film (EKTACHROME 64T or FUJICHROME 64T) with a "not yet passed 'process before'-date" from the last batches on eBay, ... . Or try lomography who is still selling the F64t from the last batches relabled as "X": http://shop.lomography.com/films/lomogr ... -pack-of-3 )
If you refer to colour negative still films, then you're too late as well, Kodak and Fuji have stopped the production of their tungsten-balanced negative-films even longer ago (approx. 2007). (Not sure whether you can still get e.g. FUJICOLOR NPL 160 PROFESSIONAL or KODAK PORTRA 100T from the last batches on ebay, ... .) (Not sure whether the other remaining manufacturers like China Lucky, Mitsubishi, ... are offering such a film.)
However in most cases tungsten-balanced film isn't needed as you're normally using a "daylight-balanced flash" when shooting indoors. Otherwise you could use "daylight-balanced LEDs" or filtered halogen-lamps to light your scene.
Jörg
if you do refer to colour reversal still films (slides), then you're simply too late as Kodak and Fuji have stopped the production of their tungsten-balanced slide-films last year. However you can still get film (EKTACHROME 64T or FUJICHROME 64T) with a "not yet passed 'process before'-date" from the last batches on eBay, ... . Or try lomography who is still selling the F64t from the last batches relabled as "X": http://shop.lomography.com/films/lomogr ... -pack-of-3 )
If you refer to colour negative still films, then you're too late as well, Kodak and Fuji have stopped the production of their tungsten-balanced negative-films even longer ago (approx. 2007). (Not sure whether you can still get e.g. FUJICOLOR NPL 160 PROFESSIONAL or KODAK PORTRA 100T from the last batches on ebay, ... .) (Not sure whether the other remaining manufacturers like China Lucky, Mitsubishi, ... are offering such a film.)
However in most cases tungsten-balanced film isn't needed as you're normally using a "daylight-balanced flash" when shooting indoors. Otherwise you could use "daylight-balanced LEDs" or filtered halogen-lamps to light your scene.
Jörg
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Re: Not a "small gauge" question, but...
I was aware of the 64Ts but stayed away from them because I could get better performance out of even 200D with an 80A filter. I'm rather weary of old film stock. I suppose I could take a look at Mitsubishi, I forgot they made film.
I may sound stupid, but I hide it well.
http://www.gcmstudio.com
http://www.gcmstudio.com
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Re: Not a "small gauge" question, but...
I share your frustration, however, tungsten slide film has been the domain of pros only for a while now.
I assume you are not putting the slides up on a slide projector to enjoy, so why not shoot daylight balanced stock and color correct in scanning?
The movie film colorists I work with constantly tell me that it really doesn't matter to them if you shoot daylight or tungsten, inside or out, filter or no filter; as long as you get the exposure right.
I always subscribe to the idea that it's best to get it on film as close as possible to what you want, but if you're intermediate destination is a computer anyway, why not just shoot Provia 400 inside without a filter, then color correct it?
I assume you are not putting the slides up on a slide projector to enjoy, so why not shoot daylight balanced stock and color correct in scanning?
The movie film colorists I work with constantly tell me that it really doesn't matter to them if you shoot daylight or tungsten, inside or out, filter or no filter; as long as you get the exposure right.
I always subscribe to the idea that it's best to get it on film as close as possible to what you want, but if you're intermediate destination is a computer anyway, why not just shoot Provia 400 inside without a filter, then color correct it?
Re: Not a "small gauge" question, but...
Well, I've seen what happens when you color correct in post. Yeah, the over all exposure may be correct, but red will be over exposed, blue will be underexposed and that yields less than stellar results. I insist on getting it right before I hit the trigger so as little correction has to be done as possible and I CAN actually look at slides/direct prints. I'm not even insisting on using slide film, I'd just like to shoot indoors with available light and get optimal results. I just now switched to slide film because I got sick of digital scanners & printers screwing up my work, omitting prints that I wanted. Sometimes it's good to have negative space, but the printers automatically reject or "correct" dark exposures!
I may sound stupid, but I hide it well.
http://www.gcmstudio.com
http://www.gcmstudio.com
Re: Not a "small gauge" question, but...
Hi,

The last months, I tested the Fujifilm Superia 1600 and the Kodak Portra 800. The Superia is very grainy (which is what I wanted for the chosen "topic" at that time). However the Portra was a surprise as it has no visible grain on a 10x15cm-print! Some guys in some still-phot-forums even claim that -when pushed to 1600ASA- it still has got less grain than the superia. So maybe you should try a Portra 800?
You might also think of getting another lens. E.g. my zoom-lenses for my Minolta SLR are only something between f2.8 (wide angle) and f5.6 (tele), while some of the non-zoom-lenses (that I don't own) are f1.4 or f1.8.
Jörg
I know what you mean. When you're "lucky", they will even cut through pictures that are "too dark" for their robotic minds...but the printers automatically reject or "correct" dark exposures

The last months, I tested the Fujifilm Superia 1600 and the Kodak Portra 800. The Superia is very grainy (which is what I wanted for the chosen "topic" at that time). However the Portra was a surprise as it has no visible grain on a 10x15cm-print! Some guys in some still-phot-forums even claim that -when pushed to 1600ASA- it still has got less grain than the superia. So maybe you should try a Portra 800?
You might also think of getting another lens. E.g. my zoom-lenses for my Minolta SLR are only something between f2.8 (wide angle) and f5.6 (tele), while some of the non-zoom-lenses (that I don't own) are f1.4 or f1.8.
Jörg
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Re: Not a "small gauge" question, but...
My main lens is an F-1.4 and my other two are F-2, so no problems there. I do have one zoom lens, but rarely use it.
As for using a flash, I don't think I even have on anymore. Even if you manage to get the foreground to look good, the background will still be underexposed and red.
As for using a flash, I don't think I even have on anymore. Even if you manage to get the foreground to look good, the background will still be underexposed and red.
I may sound stupid, but I hide it well.
http://www.gcmstudio.com
http://www.gcmstudio.com
-
- Senior member
- Posts: 1983
- Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2005 12:18 am
- Real name: Will Montgomery
- Location: Dallas, TX
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Re: Not a "small gauge" question, but...
My favorite slide film is Velvia 50. Obviously for outside, landscape shots. Kodakchrome was a close 2nd mainly for it's longevity and skin tones.
Inside it's hard to beat digital now.
Inside it's hard to beat digital now.
Re: Not a "small gauge" question, but...
I plan to shoot Provia 100 for the first time this weekend. I expect to love the results. I'm going to try 400 for indoors, but would MUCH rather it be tungsten balanced so I don't have to set my EI at 160.
I may sound stupid, but I hide it well.
http://www.gcmstudio.com
http://www.gcmstudio.com