Will my camera shoot 100D ok?

[Esoteric]

I have a Bauer S 609 XL and an S 409 XL, both of which work extremely well with 64T, Plus-X and Tri-X........with no adjustments whatsoever (I can't understand this either). 8O

My question is: will these cameras successfully shoot Ektachrome 100D colour reversal film automatically, without the need to perform any adjustments?

Thanks,

[Andersens Tears]

These are both great cameras with excellent sharp lenses.

The Bauers work like this - you can both shoot Tri-X and 200T without adjustment. They will be exposed as 160 ISO/ASA and this will not be a problem except under extremely bright daylight.

100D will be read by the camera as 160 ISO/ASA and therefore underexpose it by 2/3rds of a stop.

There are 2 ways to get round this - one easy and the other takes a little bit of fiddling about which is not ideal for point and shoot.

I have had both these cameras and shot 100D with excellent results like this -

1 - whilst shooting hold in the 'backlight' button which opens up the aperture by approx 1 f stop. I have found that it is actually slightly less than 1 f stop and is around 2/3rds or 3/4rs of an f stop. I have shot in bright sunny conditions using this method and the film has come back with good exposure. Of course this takes away the real usefulness of the backlight function - but is a quick and easy fix when needing to get the right exposure quickly.

2. Take the auto reading for your scene and then manually dial in the exposure to be at least half a stop more than the value given - you can't be precise as there are no increments between the f stop numbers - so open it up around half way to the next f stop number.

You will get good exposures using either method - there you go you now have two ways to shoot 100D with these cameras depending on what you are shooting and how much time you have for the shot!

Just remember to switch the filter switch setting to 'bulb' so that the amber colour conversion filter is removed from the light path!

Happy shooting!

[Andersens Tears]

I have a Bauer S 609 XL and an S 409 XL, both of which work extremely well with 64T, Plus-X and Tri-X........with no adjustments whatsoever (I can't understand this either). 8O
Thanks,

I think if you look closely at the Plus-X you shot you will notice that it is underexposed. I too shot lots of 64T both with and without adjustment and the results without were almost as good!

The Tri-X would have been very slightly (about a 3rd of a stop) overexposed - but again - not much to worry about dependant on your lighting situatioN!

[Esoteric]

Hi Jamie,

Well! What can I say? What a wealth of knowledge you have. Thank you so much for your explanations - most helpful. I can now go forward once again with renewed enthusiasm.

If all else fails, I can revert to my Sankyo Auto 5X for standard 8 (uses any film), and my 16mm Krasnogorsk 3 (again, adjustable for any film).

However, it's very encouraging to know that the Bauers won't fall by the wayside.

Many thanks once again,

Cheers,

[Andersens Tears]

You are welcome!

Let us know how you get on!

BTW - My uncle lives in Roffey!

[Esoteric]

Small world, Jamie!

When my wife and I got married in 1970, our first home was in Roffey!!!!

We then moved to Basingstoke in Hampshire for business reasons, but have been back in West Sussex for the last 30 years.

Anyway, have been pursuing this Super 8 scenario consistently, and think that my best bet would be to go for Cinevia from Gottfried Klose of GK. Seems to do a good deal for inclusive of processing.

At least I know the camera will perform correctly without any mods, and their idea was to produce a cassette for non-adjustable cameras.

They did have trouble in the early days with the film sticking in the cassette - I was a victim of this - but they very honourably reimbursed me. This problem has now well and truly been resolved. I also have their High Precision Pressure Plate, which certainly works very well.

Here's to happy and trouble-free filmshooting - hopefully.

Thanks once again for your very helpful input.

[Muckymuck]

I found that in my (now given away) Bauer C500XL, 100D would look great when shot in bright sun light (i.e. very saturated due to the underexposure, but not looking "dark").

In gloomier weather, it would look underexposed.

Just remember to switch the filter out manually- most Bauers have no lower notch reader pin.

Hope that helps.

[Esoteric]

Hi. Thanks for your input 'Muckymuck'.

It's interesting to note about using 100D in bright sunlight - I'll go down that route if I get stuck for Cinevia. Both my Bauers only read the 40 and 160 films.

Cheers,

[Andersens Tears]

Hi. Thanks for your input 'Muckymuck'.

It's interesting to note about using 100D in bright sunlight - I'll go down that route if I get stuck for Cinevia. Both my Bauers only read the 40 and 160 films.

Cheers,

I do not recommend this with your 409 or 609 - I shot 100D on auto with both of these cameras in bright and very bright sunlight and the results were underexposed - saturated colours yes - but dark in all the wrong places - over contrasty and faces with dull skintones - if you can see the faces - 2/3rds of a stop underexposure is very noticable! With Reversal film it is best to get as close to the correct exposure as possible - unless you are processing yourself of course - as you might want this effect. But of course it is up to you.

As I mentioned it is not too troublesome to shoot 100D with your Bauers - it is the cheapest option.

You know you could also buy Wittnerchrome 50D from Frank Bruinsma at the Super 8 Reversal Lab - it is the same Fuji stock as Cinevia - and will work without adjustment in your Bauers - I think the price is comparable to Cinevia - but cannot confirm this.

[Esoteric]

OK. Point taken Jamie.

Think I'll definitely stick with the Wittner as you suggest, or the Cinevia. Nothing beats doing things correctly!

Cheers,

[Andersens Tears]

OK. Point taken Jamie.

Think I'll definitely stick with the Wittner as you suggest, or the Cinevia. Nothing beats doing things correctly!

Cheers,

Not trying to scare you off doing it - just giving you my advice based on a practical test shot with the same cameras as yours.

Jamie

[Andersens Tears]

Small world, Jamie!

When my wife and I got married in 1970, our first home was in Roffey!!!!

We then moved to Basingstoke in Hampshire for business reasons, but have been back in West Sussex for the last 30 years.

Well I am West Sussex born and bred - but now live in Sweden!

[Esoteric]

Not a question of being put off, Jamie, but I would naturally prefer to use the correct type of film - makes sense after all. I can use 100D in my Standard 8 and 16mm cameras anyway, so I do have a 'fall-back' position.

Interesting to hear you are a Sussex man! I was born in Southgate, Middlesex - now known as Greater London. Moved to Great Bookham, near Leatherhead, in Surrey when I was 10, and then bought our first house in Roffey when I became engaged.

How do you like living in Sweden, and what prompted the move? We nearly emigrated to the USA, but that's another long story :!:

[Andersens Tears]

How do you like living in Sweden, and what prompted the move?

The lady in my avatar prompted the move
Married her and now have 2 sprogs.
I really enjoy living here - clean air and stunningly countryside. But sometimes I miss the Weald and Downlands of Sussex, and most of all the sea air and sandy beaches. I miss the sound of seagulls too.

Good luck with your cameras!

[Esoteric]

She looks both stunning and charming. Congratulations.

All the best to you and your family.