where is widened super8 gates going?

[aj]

Blue scratches sometimes occured on Kodachrome. And are more of blus streaks. Usually people blamed the lab rather then their own gear/doing. Actually the cause was in static discharge while transporting the film in camera.

Kodachrome is nor more Hence no more blue streaks.

[slashmaster]

Blue scratches sometimes occured on Kodachrome. And are more of blus streaks. Usually people blamed the lab rather then their own gear/doing. Actually the cause was in static discharge while transporting the film in camera.

Kodachrome is nor more Hence no more blue streaks.

Maybe that is what it is, but I'm not sure I described it very well, I just watched that 50 feet of my film again. It's actually a heavy streak and a very light streak parallel to each other but waves back and forth, like the whole 50 feet scratched against something. But unlike ordinary black scratches these scratches show up very well on dark parts of the film but not as well on well lit parts of the film. Could static really do this?

[Will2]

I believe I can see a slight difference in Super 16 vs. Regular 16mm when cropped/enlarged & scanned to HD; but just barely. Much depends on the stock and lighting.

But with Super 8 I wonder if it is worth it. I would first try to go anamorphic before widening the gate. Of course there are members here that are really good at that type of work so if I had the skill set and tools why not? Especially since cameras are so relatively inexpensive.

Side note, I haven't projected any Super 8 since re-engaging with the format 7 years ago. I just transfer and edit digitally. I have however projected 16mm and it really looks amazing. I've made prints from negative stock and projected that... wow. Not to mention Kodakchrome 16mm can't be scanned/telecined anywhere near as good as the real thing looks projected.

[ECNtoo]

I believe I can see a slight difference in Super 16 vs. Regular 16mm when cropped/enlarged & scanned to HD; but just barely. Much depends on the stock and lighting.

But with Super 8 I wonder if it is worth it. I would first try to go anamorphic before widening the gate. Of course there are members here that are really good at that type of work so if I had the skill set and tools why not? Especially since cameras are so relatively inexpensive.

Side note, I haven't projected any Super 8 since re-engaging with the format 7 years ago. I just transfer and edit digitally. I have however projected 16mm and it really looks amazing. I've made prints from negative stock and projected that... wow. Not to mention Kodakchrome 16mm can't be scanned/telecined anywhere near as good as the real thing looks projected.

I've always been able to notice the difference between cropped regular 16 and super16. The smaller the format the more you see the difference. You can really start notice the difference at about 5% grain reduction so 13% or more image area in super8 will make a big difference, relativly speaking ofcourse...

As I previously mentioned, I do have my camera that I specifically want to use. I'm interested in anamorphic for sure but using it has it's issues with focussing etc. It would be nice to reduce the grain a bit.