Nikon R8 batteries

[nickrapak]

Ever since I started shooting movies, my primary cameras have all been Regular 8. The only S8 cameras that I have had are small, cheap, fixed-focus cameras that were bought to be broken. Well, now I've been dragged kicking and screaming into the world of Super 8! :mrgreen: I just bought a Nikon R8 Super for $25, and after cleaning out the corrosion in both battery compartments, it seems to be working fine. However, I have two questions related to the batteries.

First, the main battery compartment contacts seem to be slightly loose, as the camera will shut off while testing, until I shake the handle, at which point it starts up again. Is this a common problem? If so, how is it fixed? If not, do you have any ideas as to how to fix it?

Next, I know that the meter takes PX625 batteries, as the corroded batteries required the use of a Dremel tool to open the compartment. My question is whether the 625A batteries will work or whether an exact 1.35v charge is needed.

[bolextech]

The 625A batteries are higher voltage and can give you from 1 to 1-1/2 stop underexposure on automatic setting. The good thing is that you can use the over and under compensation button to correct somewhat for this. Your first test roll will tell you a lot about exactly how to set exposure.

Cheers,
Jean=Louis

[beamascope]

Any chance you could post a pic of the battery compartment with the loose terminals?

[nickrapak]

Here are the pictures of both the camera contacts and the battery cart contacts:

[aj]

First, the main battery compartment contacts seem to be slightly loose, as the camera will shut off while testing, until I shake the handle, at which point it starts up again. Is this a common problem? If so, how is it fixed? If not, do you have any ideas as to how to fix it?

Next, I know that the meter takes PX625 batteries, as the corroded batteries required the use of a Dremel tool to open the compartment. My question is whether the 625A batteries will work or whether an exact 1.35v charge is needed.

The 3 cameras contacts are spring-loaded. So they can be forced in a bit. Just make sure the cups on the clip are clean. Rub the cameracontacts with a fine sandpaper but don't push too strong inwards.

There is a two-way batterytester on the side of the camera.

When using the 1.5V alkaline just compare with a external lightmeter. 0.15v differnce is not likely to cause much of a difference. Fresh silver-oxide used to have a higher voltage too. Anyone got a set Some circuitries are completely imune until vaporized.