aj wrote:
You are aware that the bucketmethod gives randomly spread scratches and patches of under-developed-bleache-fixed patches.?
You can greatly reduce scratches by using adequate amounts of chemistry and being gentle, with experience it becomes better, it will still have some scratches but not extreme.
Patches of under developed film can be avoided with adequate amounts of chemistry (like to use 2+L of chemistry in a 4L bucket), I just spread my hand and keep the the film submerged by gently pressing down about the width of my hand. On the other hand if you don't mind heavy scratches, with aggressive agitation you can use less than a liter of chemistry.
The OP said he had old roll of Plus x, and didn't know how it was kept before him. I figure going with the bucket method would be the easiest in this case.
The hose method sounds interesting but wouldn't that make it difficult to keep the chemicals at the appropriate temperature? Wouldn't you also want to load the film into the hose while it is laid out straight so that you don't drag it against the side of the hose?
I would imagine to use a thread to pull the film from the other in.
I suppose getting this thread in would be easiest when the hose is in vertical position, i.e. hanging in a staircase or something like by the side of an appartment building. Prepare your line for the investigating police-officer.
Nice, but what was it intended for? The apron is 20mm wide. Unsuitable for S8 and likely too risky for 16mm too. Or are the bumps wide enough to keep 16mm free of the apron?
The instructions say keep the film level with the apron, so I guess it's either 16mm or Standard 8 / Regular 8 mm. I was hoping for somebody around here may have seen this or used this and explain it to me...
There are pictures of a rotating frame and a hand frame. last is the film wrapped around a frame that is processed in a paper developing dish. Needs a dark room but looks very simple.
New web site and this is cine page http://www.picsntech.co.uk/cine.html
There are pictures of a rotating frame and a hand frame. last is the film wrapped around a frame that is processed in a paper developing dish. Needs a dark room but looks very simple.
Very cool link. Thanks! I might make that 25' tray version and see how it goes.
It's been a long time since I've developed any film (1984) so this may seem like a stupid question. Do the chemicals need to contact both sides of the film or just the emulsion side? I ask this because it seems like most of the developing tanks allow for chemicals on both sides. Looking at that rack system it seems that portions of the film would have the back against the frame and wouldn't allow chemicals to contact in those areas very well.
Are there materials that would not be suitable to make a developing rack or tank out of if I was to create some kind of do it yourself developing system? Like something that would react with the chemicals or use them up faster. It seems like most of this equipment is made of plastic or stainless steel.
So I dove in yesterday with a buddy of mine and shot my long expired 16mm Plus X 50ASA. Used an old B&H 70DL which worked perfectly and then developed to negative in a tray in the darkroom. I got about 30 feet on the gizmo I built and thus had to do it 4 times to get all 100 feet developed. We were shocked to have it work so well. This was also a test of my light meter which it seems was pretty dead on. Dried it by stringing it around my basement and put it all onto one spool this evening. Plan on doing a home telecine transfer the FIRST time it is projected in case the negative takes a beating in the projector. I'll post some of it later this week or this weekend for you to see. We'll be using the software to make it a positive image.
Thanks for all your help and ideas!
OK guys, Ive managed to get hold of a lomo tank. I've not a clue how much film it will hold but it is about 8 and a half inches across.
Without scouring the net where would I get the chemicals for developing 100D from here in the UK?
I have downloaded the instructions from M W Baumgarten and would like to have a go at developing some super 8.