soon: Ektachrome 100 D by Kodak from Kodak in Super-8

[supa8]

Wow. That's a lot of news. God I loved plus-X. Damn, that's a real pity.
How about Ektachrome 100D indoors then? It is going to be really awkward and hard for people to understand how to use.
If Ekta 100D is only 20asa indoors, how are you supposed to have enough light in the first place, even with a Canon 310XL? For cameras with manual aperture, how must one compensate, as I assume cameras will think it is 100 or maybe even 160asa?
Shooting 100D outdoors is great, but indoors, it's always confused me.
What other options will there be for colour reversal in tungsten light once 64T is gone?

[supa8]

I suppose you could change the cartridge's notch so that it meters at 40 asa for instance, which would be closer to 20 already. What do you reckon?

[MIKI-814]

I suppose you could change the cartridge's notch so that it meters at 40 asa for instance, which would be closer to 20 already. What do you reckon?

You don't have to modify the cartridge nor the metering. All you have to do is screw a blue filter (80A) in the lens if yours is a TTL camera. It's the 80A filter itself who will reduce incoming light by 2 stops, thus converting the whole thing from 100 to 25 ASA... but the film inside will always remain the same ISO.

For indoor shooting in reversal, it's better the Ektachrome 64T... or the Fuji 64T from now on (which is far far better than that of Kodak): No grain, wonderful skin tones and better archival properties. Loading Kaccemas reloadable cartridges will be a must for this...

[supa8]

All you have to do is screw a blue filter (80A) in the lens if yours is a TTL camera. It's the 80A filter itself who will reduce incoming light by 2 stops, thus converting the whole thing from 100 to 25 ASA... but the film inside will always remain the same ISO.

Thanks for your reply
Could you clarify this please, because you are losing me. If you reduce the amount of light going through your TTL camera lens, does it not report de problem (in the same way as fitting a neutral density filter on a 40/160 camera will not fix the 64T issue).
If you say the 80a filter reduces the light by 2 stops, then are you not making the film even darker than what it is. If you work in low light, this will mean even darker footage, no?
Or is it as simple as putting on this filter and everything is fine then? I'm confused

[woods01]

It is certainly a shame about Plus-X, which has been my personal stock of choice for some time, but probably logical from a purely financial POV. If I look through my sales figures over the past few years Tri-X has outsold it by a factor of something like 3:1, so possibly the market has forced the decision it upon itself really.

I have to admit as well that while I love the look of Plus-X, I've bought far more Tri-X over the years, mainly because I need the extra stop because I'm developing it as a negative. I'd love to get Double-X in Super 8.

I wonder how long their reserves of Plus-X & E64 will last? Unlike Kodachrome, I can't imagine this decision really creating an avalanche of sales.

[supa8]

If you cross process Tri-X as a negative, why would you need an extra stop?

[Davideo]

Plus X was my primary choice for B&W reversal. I hate the look of Tri-X. Wish they discontinued Tri-X instead. I'm gonna stock up on Plus X.

[woods01]

If you cross process Tri-X as a negative, why would you need an extra stop?

You lose some sensitivity when you process it as a negative. You could push it a bit in processing but I prefer to overexpose by 2/3 to a full stop. Though I admit that I wonder at times whether I should even bother doing it. For the last Plus-X I shot, I shot it as rated in full automatic mode, cross processed and it looked terrific.

[MIKI-814]

If you reduce the amount of light going through your TTL camera lens, does it not report de problem (in the same way as fitting a neutral density filter on a 40/160 camera will not fix the 64T issue).

You don't fit a blue filter to reduce 2 stops... you fit the blue filter just to correct the colour, and as a consequence, the scene catched by the lens is much darker... but the automatic iris of the lens will compensate for this and open the 2 stops.

It is not the film itself what you make darker, it's the scene, but the lightmeter will compensate for this, as it's something automatic.

Yes, form TTL cameras that meters light through the lens, it is as simple as screw the 80A filter... and of course switch on tons of light to allow the film register something in interiors with only 25 ASA :mrgreen:

[supa8]

Ok. I think I know what you mean. Thanks a lot for the explanation

[JCook]

Anyone care to swap some S8 K40 for Kodak supplied 100D? :oops: