16 mm. What camera to buy
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- superadio
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16 mm. What camera to buy
I have earlier asked for advice for start with 16mm. What would be the best, easiest camera for me to start with shooting 16mm film? And also when it comes to buy/ Process film for it. For S8, I use Andec in Berlin.
Re: 16 mm. What camera to buy
Really, the K-2 isn't easiest camera
I can recommend to buy one Canon Scoopic 16. It is very good for easy shooting. The lens on Scoopic is very good also. It shoots excellent images.

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Alexander,
filmmaker from Russia
Alexander,
filmmaker from Russia
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Re: 16 mm. What camera to buy
we tried different 16mm cameras like beaulieu, bolex, k2, arriflex 16 st, and also really old one from eumig...
but i think that the arriflex 16 st is easy for filming when u have done a lot of super8 filming....
u can not make anything wrong with this cam ....
but it depends on the budget.. the arriflex is more expensive than the beaulieu or the k2...
i dont know the prices for the canon...
but i think that the arriflex 16 st is easy for filming when u have done a lot of super8 filming....
u can not make anything wrong with this cam ....
but it depends on the budget.. the arriflex is more expensive than the beaulieu or the k2...
i dont know the prices for the canon...
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- Herb Montes
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Re: 16 mm. What camera to buy
The easiest 16mm camera to use? The Bell & Howell model 70, the Kodak K100, the non-reflex Bolex. Spring powered which means they are always ready to go. You don't need a charger or a battery pack like the Canon or Arriflex. And they all use readily available c-mount lenses. Just carry a light meter in your pocket and you're ready to go.
- CineGuerrilha
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Re: 16 mm. What camera to buy
i have a k3, a kiev 16ue, a kinor 16 and an eumig c16. The eumig is the easiest by far. Same story as the nonreflex bolex. but as a 1st cam i'd get a k3 (just for all the capabilities - i like single frame, different speeds etc) and it looks cool.
Re: 16 mm. What camera to buy
I'd go with a Bolex. Easy enough to use for straight shooting, and you can do just about anything with it. I think its only downside is that it isn't nearly robust as say a B&H filmo, but mine have taken some pretty hard slams and survived.
I was always a little let down by the scoopic. It felt like I was just using a big super 8 camera. It took great pictures sure, but the no backwinding, battery operated only design was a dealbreaker for me.
Oh, and another Bolex plus right now? I bought two in the last year with about a half dozen switars and two reflex zooms for under two hundred dollars total. All purchased off of a certain auction site. I guess film school demand for these is falling off?
I was always a little let down by the scoopic. It felt like I was just using a big super 8 camera. It took great pictures sure, but the no backwinding, battery operated only design was a dealbreaker for me.
Oh, and another Bolex plus right now? I bought two in the last year with about a half dozen switars and two reflex zooms for under two hundred dollars total. All purchased off of a certain auction site. I guess film school demand for these is falling off?
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Re: 16 mm. What camera to buy
No question. A late model Canon Scoopic (MS, MN) is by far the easiest 16mm camera to use.
- Super fast & easiest loading of any 16mm camera; auto threading rocks
- Built in meter is accurate and reliable
- Lens is extremely sharp in the middle f-stop range
- Easy to hand hold although as with any 16mm camera it's heavy
- Batteries are easy to re-cell, small, and I've shot 7 rolls on one without running out of juice
I have a K-100 turret, Kiev 16ue and K3 and love all three as well for different reasons, but there's no comparison on how easy the Scoopic is to use. Especially if you're coming from Super 8.
I judge a camera's usefulness by how much I pick it up to actually shoot and that Scoopic is the first one I go for unless I need specialized lenses and in reality that's not very often.
If you want to make the argument that a hand-crank camera is "easier" because it doesn't use batteries, you're on crack. I can't tell you how many shots I've missed with my K3 because I was busy winding to only get a 40 second shot. I have little circular imprints on my palm from turning that crank. With my Scoopic I can shoot about 1500 of 100' rolls with two batteries. If I need more than that in one shoot then either I can buy another battery, a camera with 400' rolls or I should be shooting video.
- Super fast & easiest loading of any 16mm camera; auto threading rocks
- Built in meter is accurate and reliable
- Lens is extremely sharp in the middle f-stop range
- Easy to hand hold although as with any 16mm camera it's heavy
- Batteries are easy to re-cell, small, and I've shot 7 rolls on one without running out of juice
I have a K-100 turret, Kiev 16ue and K3 and love all three as well for different reasons, but there's no comparison on how easy the Scoopic is to use. Especially if you're coming from Super 8.
I judge a camera's usefulness by how much I pick it up to actually shoot and that Scoopic is the first one I go for unless I need specialized lenses and in reality that's not very often.
If you want to make the argument that a hand-crank camera is "easier" because it doesn't use batteries, you're on crack. I can't tell you how many shots I've missed with my K3 because I was busy winding to only get a 40 second shot. I have little circular imprints on my palm from turning that crank. With my Scoopic I can shoot about 1500 of 100' rolls with two batteries. If I need more than that in one shoot then either I can buy another battery, a camera with 400' rolls or I should be shooting video.
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BEAULIEU R16 BEAULIEU R16
I LOVE MY BEAULIEU
Beaulieu are to cameras what jaguar are to cars. I went to 16mm a few months ago and have never looked back.
I process all my film at home and buy it very cheap on ebay. It is currently costing me about half of what I was paying for super 8 and with amazing results. I literally have stacks of unused films (60 X 100ft!) piled up at home waiting to be shot.
The beaulieu is such a beautifully designed camera, and I like the fact that it has an internal light meter so if I want to film more casually I can stick it on auto.
The 12-120mm Angineaux lens is the best lens to get with it. It's not the cheapest but I much prefer it to a Bolex. Also I got mine converted to take AA batteries which makes it very versatile.
Do it! And dev your own, for the scruffy look.
Beaulieu are to cameras what jaguar are to cars. I went to 16mm a few months ago and have never looked back.
I process all my film at home and buy it very cheap on ebay. It is currently costing me about half of what I was paying for super 8 and with amazing results. I literally have stacks of unused films (60 X 100ft!) piled up at home waiting to be shot.
The beaulieu is such a beautifully designed camera, and I like the fact that it has an internal light meter so if I want to film more casually I can stick it on auto.
The 12-120mm Angineaux lens is the best lens to get with it. It's not the cheapest but I much prefer it to a Bolex. Also I got mine converted to take AA batteries which makes it very versatile.
Do it! And dev your own, for the scruffy look.
Rufus Blackwell
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- Herb Montes
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Re: 16 mm. What camera to buy
I've been using hand-cranked cameras since the 1960's and never used crack. I stand by my statement.Will2 wrote:If you want to make the argument that a hand-crank camera is "easier" because it doesn't use batteries, you're on crack. I can't tell you how many shots I've missed with my K3 because I was busy winding to only get a 40 second shot. I have little circular imprints on my palm from turning that crank. With my Scoopic I can shoot about 1500 of 100' rolls with two batteries. If I need more than that in one shoot then either I can buy another battery, a camera with 400' rolls or I should be shooting video.
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Re: 16 mm. What camera to buy
Plenty of hand cranked cameras are excellent cameras. But from an ease standpoint, how can it be possibly easier to have to crank a camera vs. simply pressing a button? Don't get me wrong, I love my K3 and K-100 and they are fairly easy to use, but since the question was "easiest" and not the "best" I stand by my statement.
Crack was overstating it. I in no way endorse the use of crack nor do I actually mean to imply you would be using it. In the immortal words of Whitney Houston, crack is whack.
Crack was overstating it. I in no way endorse the use of crack nor do I actually mean to imply you would be using it. In the immortal words of Whitney Houston, crack is whack.
- adamgarner
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Re: 16 mm. What camera to buy
I've read that the Beaulieu R16 is extremely loud, and shrill. Is this your take?Beaulieu are to cameras what jaguar are to cars. I went to 16mm a few months ago and have never looked back.
Bolex is supposed to be much quieter, as are the scoopics.
Is the Scoopic a c-mount? I'm curious about this camera. It seems like such a great run-and-gun camera for 16mm. Originally designed for the news, I think it'd be the "easiest" for quick use. Apparently, you can even attach a magazine to it, on the 16MS.
I'm really interested in moving into 16 as well. I'd like to get a camera that has in internal light meter and auto-exposure but can also be set up as super 16. I think I'd be stuck with a Bolex EL, which are PRICEY.
Re: 16 mm. What camera to buy
Ditto. Hand cranked cameras are reliable and depending on subject matter they serve most purposes (unless if one is shooting a scene that is more 40 seconds long, but few do) If hand cranked cameras were good enough for Billy Wilder and John Ford, then they must be good for the rest of humanity.Herb Montes wrote:I've been using hand-cranked cameras since the 1960's and never used crack. I stand by my statement.Will2 wrote:If you want to make the argument that a hand-crank camera is "easier" because it doesn't use batteries, you're on crack. I can't tell you how many shots I've missed with my K3 because I was busy winding to only get a 40 second shot. I have little circular imprints on my palm from turning that crank. With my Scoopic I can shoot about 1500 of 100' rolls with two batteries. If I need more than that in one shoot then either I can buy another battery, a camera with 400' rolls or I should be shooting video.
In addition to a Bolex Non-RX, I usually use a Eumig 16R with a good builtin exposure meter. Eumig 16R has a great lens and easy to use attachments for tele and wide angle. In addition, one can set the ASA on it. But the B&H 70 is highly recommended (although I do not have one, but have heard good things about it).
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Re: 16 mm. What camera to buy
The Kodak K-100, without a doubt, to start.
Really great cameras, long spring wind, and (unfortunately) they have shot up in price the last year. But lots of them around. They don't ever break, either.
Most of the others recommended are a little big and cumbersome. The little B/H is good, too.
Really great cameras, long spring wind, and (unfortunately) they have shot up in price the last year. But lots of them around. They don't ever break, either.
Most of the others recommended are a little big and cumbersome. The little B/H is good, too.
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Re: 16 mm. What camera to buy
None of the cameras mentioned are quiet...
That said.
The Beaulieu R16 is a great camera. I had one for a few years and really got to like it. Some people will push Bolex or Arri but they don't carry the same way or at all. I wouldn't exactly like to be walking around with an Arri 16 of any model.
Good Luck
That said.
The Beaulieu R16 is a great camera. I had one for a few years and really got to like it. Some people will push Bolex or Arri but they don't carry the same way or at all. I wouldn't exactly like to be walking around with an Arri 16 of any model.
Good Luck
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Re: 16 mm. What camera to buy
You can get a beaulieu converted to super 16mm in london. And beaulieus are so easy to shoot from the shoulder. A little bit loud (but I have nothing to compare it to) other than that they are awesome.I'm really interested in moving into 16 as well. I'd like to get a camera that has in internal light meter and auto-exposure but can also be set up as super 16. I think I'd be stuck with a Bolex EL, which are PRICEY.
Rufus Blackwell
: Time-Lapse Photography : : www.TimeLapseVFX.com :
: Visual Effects : : www.FXshowreel.com :
: Time-Lapse Photography : : www.TimeLapseVFX.com :
: Visual Effects : : www.FXshowreel.com :