Bright Frames on Old 8mm film
Moderator: Andreas Wideroe
-
- Posts: 33
- Joined: Sat Sep 04, 2004 3:44 pm
- Contact:
Bright Frames on Old 8mm film
Hi folks,
I transfer old 8mm film for families. I'm hoping to benefit from your collective experience.
I have found that the first frame when a new shot begins is a bit brighter than the rest of that shot. Sometimes much brighter. I have checked the film directly and it seems to be there, not in my set-up.
Any idea why this occurs ?
For those who transfer film can it be eliminated or reduced ?
I use a Workprinter XP (upgraded) with a Sony TRV900 on a Mac.
Thanks in advance.
Pat De Marco
I transfer old 8mm film for families. I'm hoping to benefit from your collective experience.
I have found that the first frame when a new shot begins is a bit brighter than the rest of that shot. Sometimes much brighter. I have checked the film directly and it seems to be there, not in my set-up.
Any idea why this occurs ?
For those who transfer film can it be eliminated or reduced ?
I use a Workprinter XP (upgraded) with a Sony TRV900 on a Mac.
Thanks in advance.
Pat De Marco
If its on the film, some cheaper cameras (or worn cameras) didn't always close the shutter completely. So there is a chance that the first frame or two of every shot might be over-exposed. Another alternative is that the shutter blade is out of alignment slightly or bent, again causing the same problem. You would only notice this at the end/beginning of shots because the "extra" light gets in when the camera is not running.
The government says that by 2010 30% of us will be fat....I am merely a trendsetter 

Re: Bright Frames on Old 8mm film
That's because the film was on "daylight reels". Hence the first decimeters got exposed to direct sunlight while (un)loading the film. The same happens when using any cartridge based system (e.g. Super8, Single8 or Kodak's carts for Double8/16mm). But on a cartridge based system this effect would only occur for a few frames* while it's a several decimeters when using reels. BTW: The first decimeters are normally removed in the lab as they will be completely white before the white slowly dissolves into a visible image.son-of-bubba wrote:I have found that the first frame when a new shot begins is a bit brighter than the rest of that shot. Sometimes much brighter. I have checked the film directly and it seems to be there, not in my set-up.
Any idea why this occurs ?
Jörg
* = When using Super8/Single8-sound carts you do have two gates where the film gets exposed when (un)loading. Hence the effect would affect more frames on films with live-sound.
This space was left intenionally blank.
- MovieStuff
- Posts: 6135
- Joined: Wed May 01, 2002 1:07 am
- Real name: Roger Evans
- Location: Kerrville, Texas
- Contact:
Re: Bright Frames on Old 8mm film
The reason is simple: Some cameras get up to speed immediately but some take a bit of time to get up to speed. On cameras that "ramp up" to speed, the first frame is simply exposed for a longer time than the frames that follow. You may not hear the cameras ramping up but it happens and the amount of time it takes can dramatically alter the exposure of the first frame of each new take.son-of-bubba wrote:
I have found that the first frame when a new shot begins is a bit brighter than the rest of that shot. Sometimes much brighter.
Roger
-
- Posts: 33
- Joined: Sat Sep 04, 2004 3:44 pm
- Contact:
-
- Posts: 62
- Joined: Sat Feb 04, 2006 12:02 am
- Location: Vancouver, B.C.
- Contact:
-
- Posts: 33
- Joined: Sat Sep 04, 2004 3:44 pm
- Contact:
-
- Senior member
- Posts: 2486
- Joined: Fri Jul 25, 2003 2:36 pm
- Location: atm Berlin, Germany
- Contact:
if the first frame is very bright, then angus explanation is likely the cause..
if it's only slightly brighter then the others, then roger's point kicks in..
jörg seems to have missread the question ;)
the easiest way to fix it is to cut it out on your computer, this can help to make the cuts less jumpy too.
if you have a lot and lot of those, you could start with advanced video processing that automates this. avisynth would be a place to start.
++ c.
if it's only slightly brighter then the others, then roger's point kicks in..
jörg seems to have missread the question ;)
the easiest way to fix it is to cut it out on your computer, this can help to make the cuts less jumpy too.
if you have a lot and lot of those, you could start with advanced video processing that automates this. avisynth would be a place to start.
++ c.
-
- Posts: 33
- Joined: Sat Sep 04, 2004 3:44 pm
- Contact: