I have some interesting ideas.
If I insert Fujichrome RT25N or RT200N from single-8 cartridge in super 8 reloadable cart. I can normally use it in super 8 camera and
process in E-6 (in tank) without any problems?
I looked footage which shoot with R25N. It is beautiful and fine grain (better than K40 ).
Single 8 is thinner, hence brighter upon projection. You could feasibly load MORE single 8 film into a super 8 cartridge if you were so inclined...not sure what you would do about the splice that would be required...much less about what Fuji would be expecting to see if you happened to send it out for processing.
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Fujichrome RT25N and RT200N is not a simple E 6 processing. It has some differences and there is a black cover which must be removed while processing. This is by far too difficult for a home made processing.
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I believe at one time Martin Baumgarten was packing Single 8 film into Super 8 cartridges. Not sure if he's still at it.
It's true-- Fujichrome is E-6 but it has a rubbery backing that will ruin your chemicals. Better off with kodak...Plus, keep those Single 8 cartridges, send them in to Japan and have Fuji put soundstripe on your film for another 4 or 5 bucks.
Juergen wrote:Fujichrome RT25N and RT200N is not a simple E 6 processing. It has some differences and there is a black cover which must be removed while processing. This is by far too difficult for a home made processing.
What Juergen is hinting at is that the anti-halation backing on these films is black rubbery goo. It's possible to process it using a spiral tank, but you'll have to use a warm wash bath and wipe the backing off at the start of the processing. Of course, the film tends to shed the rubbery coating at the most inconvenient moments. This is guaranteed to make an incredible mess, pollute your processing baths and waste a ridiculous amount of time. In fact, I guarantee it's something you'll only want to try once in a darkroom.
I have had problems with anti-halation backing when home processing K40.
If developing as B&W neg it needed wiping off, which I could not do without messing up the fill a little with dirt and a few scratches.
But if developed as B&W reversal it came off during the processing but it did make a mess of the chemicals, and left huge flecks all over the film (Which worked for the film I was shooting, as it made it look like a dirty early 30's film). But this would normally be a very bad thing.
So basically, films with anti-halation backings are a nightmare for home processing.
I suppose the 3rd paragraph is about E6 processing. Now both are about BW and are in contradiction.
Processing Agfa film in E6 isn't that bad. When working systematicly wiping off the black matter is not so hard. Just do it completely before it dries up.
That way you can still have films processed at Retro8.com Likely the fasted processor for E6 single-8 (and super-8 )
Using a Fujica P2 which you can now buy at Euro 1-2 you could build the upper part from a stripped camera. It would even have motordrive on the transport. Using and old cartridge or Kaccema for the base are the natural options for the base. Hacksawing through the roof of a dear S8 camera is more undertaking and risky. But if you have 60meter S8 camera there is nothing to do there.
Chris-B wrote:I have had problems with anti-halation backing when home processing K40.
If developing as B&W neg it needed wiping off, which I could not do without messing up the fill a little with dirt and a few scratches.
But if developed as B&W reversal it came off during the processing but it did make a mess of the chemicals, and left huge flecks all over the film (Which worked for the film I was shooting, as it made it look like a dirty early 30's film). But this would normally be a very bad thing.
So basically, films with anti-halation backings are a nightmare for home processing.
Chris.
BTW Which chemistry did you use on the K40? And what processing times?
Alex, you should be able to do this quite o.k.
I suspect the thinner fujichrome will transport much better in the Kaccema too.
As for processing, yes, there is an anti-hallation layer. If you are patient, it can be done very nicely with this stock - especially if you are using fresh stock. I have done a few rolls for a customer that said he didn't mind if there was some backing still on the film: he said he would remove it with methylated spirits. I tried this and it works, even when the film is dry. I would not offer this service myself as there may be issues with using metholyated spirits on the film. I am not sure. But I do it for this customer if he asks.
If you are processing e6 to exhaustion (as opposed to replenishing the chemistry) then process rem-jet stocks like fujichrome last. that way there is no problem. As I say, I have done it a few times (and many times with other rem-jet stocks). But do expect that your spirals will need a good wash. The fuji process is entirely compatable with e6.
good luck,
Richard
I run Nano Lab - Australia's super8 ektachrome processing service
- visit nanolab.com.au
richard@nanolab.com.au
Yesterday, I have been surprised, when could open empty cartridge Ektachrome 64T and not damage it.
I load new film and close it and film ran in camera without any problems.
(I checked with Quarz camera).
I have Russian cartridges and I shall use them with Fujichrome.
Hi to all. IMHO the beauty of single 8 is the possibility of shooting with pressure plate so I wouldn't go for a super 8 cart with these films. What I did is put some Fuji 250D into kaccema from a 400ft spool, but this is totally different.
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