Shooting a Wedding

Post by **wolf** » Wed Nov 07, 2007 3:37 am

mattias wrote:
matt5791 wrote:
onsuper8 wrote:FYI - Pro8mm stock is notched for the relevant stock.
I thought so - and errs on the side of slight overexposure if I remember rightly.

ie I believe V200T would expose at 160ASA and V500 at 400ASA
are they notched daylight or tungsten? the highest daylight notch the canon 518 can read is 100 asa. that's more than erring on the side of slight overexposure. even if it's notched tungsten exposing 500 asa stock at 160 is also quite a bit, although most likely not a problem.

/matt

so mattias, you are saying that even though the pro8mm stock may be notched, i should not trust it since my camera can't read anything higher than 100 asa for daylight film?

Post by **mattias** » Wed Nov 07, 2007 3:52 am

yes, but if it's notched as tungsten it will be read as 160 asa and thus work ok with 250d, if you remove the internal filter manually.

/matt

Post by **wolf** » Wed Nov 07, 2007 7:06 pm

mattias wrote:
matt5791 wrote:
onsuper8 wrote:FYI - Pro8mm stock is notched for the relevant stock.
I thought so - and errs on the side of slight overexposure if I remember rightly.

ie I believe V200T would expose at 160ASA and V500 at 400ASA
are they notched daylight or tungsten? the highest daylight notch the canon 518 can read is 100 asa. that's more than erring on the side of slight overexposure. even if it's notched tungsten exposing 500 asa stock at 160 is also quite a bit, although most likely not a problem.

/matt

Hey Mattias,

I just checked on Super 8 wiki and found this (just noticed someone else posted it on the first page too)

Canon 518 SV Auto Zoom

Manual / Auto Exposure (Auto-exposure mechanism reads:25T/16, 40T/25, 64T/40, 100T/64, 160T/100, 250T/160 and 400T/250)

So it looks like it should be able to read the 250D just fine, but the 500D will just meter as 250? Will that mean that if i go by my cameras meter with the 500D then it will be over, or underexposed? And will it be way to over/under exposed, or do you think it will be okay to just go by the internal meter with that too, since it might be able to be fixed in post?

josh

Post by **mattias** » Wed Nov 07, 2007 7:17 pm

my bad. sorry. i confused this camera with another one. i still recommend an external meter though. much better results in high contrast situations, since you expose for the subject rather than the scene.

/matt

Post by **Will2** » Wed Nov 07, 2007 7:38 pm

mattias wrote:i still recommend an external meter though. much better results in high contrast situations, since you expose for the subject rather than the scene.

Everyone who enjoys shooting film should think about having a decent light meter. You can get away without one in Super 8 but for some types of shots it's good to get an actual light reading on the subject as Matt says. Save up for a while for a good one, you'll use it forever.

Post by **wolf** » Wed Nov 07, 2007 7:52 pm

mattias wrote:my bad. sorry. i confused this camera with another one. i still recommend an external meter though. much better results in high contrast situations, since you expose for the subject rather than the scene.

/matt

yeah, i am gonna still try to get a light meter this week. So if my camera os reading the 500D as 250D (since my camera only reads up to 250D), will that mean it will be overexposed or underexposed? I am bad at figuring that stuff out, i think it will be overexposed, but i might be wrong.

If for some reason I cannot get a light meter in time, will i probably be okay shooting the 500D with my camera reading it as 250D? Should i try to compensate a stop or two?

josh

Post by **mattias** » Wed Nov 07, 2007 8:16 pm

yes, it will be overexposed.

Post by **wolf** » Wed Nov 07, 2007 11:40 pm

mattias wrote:yes, it will be overexposed.

but will it be extremely overexposed, or just slightly? Sorry to ask so many questions.

Post by **mattias** » Thu Nov 08, 2007 1:18 am

let's see, 500/250=2=2^1. you're welcome.

/matt

Post by **wolf** » Fri Nov 09, 2007 4:41 am

mattias wrote:let's see, 500/250=2=2^1. you're welcome.

/matt

Geez, i feel like an idiot for asking so many questions, and not being a super 8 wiz like all you guys, but does that mean it will be 2 stops more exposed, or does that mean it will be 2 time more exposed? It doesn't look like i will be able to get a light meter in time, which kinda sucks, so i am gonna have to go by my camera meter for the 500D. If i understand correctly, i can pretty much just manually set my f/stop 2 stops below what my in camera light meter is telling me to shoot at, right?

thanks for being so patient.

josh

EDIT: actually, since 250 is half of 500, I would just need to expose the 500D 1 stop under what the meter is reading at 250D, right?

Post by **bakanosaru** » Fri Nov 09, 2007 9:35 am

Perhaps this is going to confuse things but...

Why don't you cut a filter notch in the 500D carts and then put the filter switch at the bulb position (tungsten/filter out). Then the meter would be set to 400 and you would only be slightly overexposed.

(Having said that 500D can probably handle a full stop of over exposure, but if you want to be anal about it.)

EDIT: actually, since 250 is half of 500, I would just need to expose the 500D 1 stop under what the meter is reading at 250D, right?

Yes. (Looks like you've got some reading to do wikipedia

)

Post by **mattias** » Fri Nov 09, 2007 1:01 pm

wolf wrote:Geez, i feel like an idiot for asking so many questions, and not being a super 8 wiz like all you guys, but does that mean it will be 2 stops more exposed, or does that mean it will be 2 time more exposed?

well, i was deliberately trying to up the ante a bit to make you think. :-) you're very close to the answer. 2 times more exposed is exactly what one stop is, which is what i meant by 2=2^1. let's say you shoot 500 asa stock and expose it at 64 asa, the formula is now 500^64=8=2^3, so 3 stops.

/matt

Post by **David M. Leugers** » Sat Nov 10, 2007 6:27 am

Everyone do yourself a favor... get a decent exposure meter, learn how to use it, and forget about using your camera's auto exposure especially with the negative stocks. One argument against using a hand held meter was that zoom lenses on S-8mm cameras admitted less light when at the longer focal lengths of the zoom range and the internal auto exposure (through the lens metering) eliminated this problem. However, with the tremendous latitude of negative stocks, and the increased latitude of reversal stocks like E64T, this is no problem. I mean, really, if we can not master using a meter... Sure, I know, auto exposure is easy and quick and fun. Much better control over your exposures and resulting images can be had with careful metering. Isn't it worth it?

David M. Leugers

Post by **wolf** » Sat Nov 10, 2007 6:32 am

David M. Leugers wrote:Everyone do yourself a favor... get a decent exposure meter, learn how to use it, and forget about using your camera's auto exposure especially with the negative stocks. One argument against using a hand held meter was that zoom lenses on S-8mm cameras admitted less light when at the longer focal lengths of the zoom range and the internal auto exposure (through the lens metering) eliminated this problem. However, with the tremendous latitude of negative stocks, and the increased latitude of reversal stocks like E64T, this is no problem. I mean, really, if we can not master using a meter... Sure, I know, auto exposure is easy and quick and fun. Much better control over your exposures and resulting images can be had with careful metering. Isn't it worth it?

David M. Leugers

David, I was just trying to get some help for using my in camera meter since i don't have time to get a nice meter. I was asked a few days before the wedding to shoot help out a friend, and if there was time to purchase a nice light meter, i would have, but my only other option is getting the most out of the internal meter.

Thanks.