developing Kodak Tri-X 7266 in negative - ?

[mr_x]

hello again,

two questions, please -

a) if i wanted to develop b/w film as a positive, would i simply expose the film to light during the development process, much the same as doing this to 64T will create a 'negative effect' - ?

b) having the Lomo, what else do i need to develop 64T, please; and where would i find suitable thermostats in the UK?

thanks,

Ric

[steve hyde]

...a number of different ways to "push".

stronger developing solution - longer time in the solution - rate your 7266 at 125, 100 when you shoot it. I recommend a combination of both especially if you like high contrast and grain. My example is 7265 shot at EI 64 and then developed in D76 / LOMO / for 30 mins with no agitation. My hope was to overdevelop the film to create a halation effect, but the new film are designed to resist halation. I say don't worry about overdeveloping. Under developing is more of a risk..

Steve

do i need thermostats for this, please - to keep the film at an even (hot) temperature?

sorry about all these questions but i am rather keen not to total the footage, if i can help it?

maybe i should shoot a trial reel of b/w first, though?

:?:

....yes, do some test rolls. Do you have a family pet?.. Shoot some material that is easily replaced.

Better yet, shoot some B&W 35mm still film and process that. It sounds like you don't have too much dark room experience. Temperatures are more of an issue with color reversal films (I don't have experience processing color films)... On B&W you want to maintain about 68 F.

To process B&W as reversal - you need bleach and yes you invert the image from negative to positive by exposing to light.

Go to any place that sells photo-chemical supplies.

Steve

[mr_x]

...a number of different ways to "push".

- rate your 7266 at 125, 100 when you shoot it.

Steve

but how, Steve - most super8 cameras automatically select the asa setting by the notch on the film cassette?

mine is a Nizo 801 - the manual expose mode just selects a single f/stop, there is no override for asa setting, as far as i'm aware?

http://super8wiki.com/index.php/Nizo_801

leaving it to develop longer seems straightforward though - thanks,

R

[mr_x]

....yes, do some test rolls. Do you have a family pet?.. Shoot some material that is easily replaced.

lol - i just bought 50' of 7266 to shoot tomorrow as a 'test'

Better yet, shoot some B&W 35mm still film and process that. It sounds like you don't have too much dark room experience.

35mm is no worries ... i can do it blindfolded ... or even in a dark room

i have '0' experience developing ciné film, however

Temperatures are more of an issue with color reversal films (I don't have experience processing color films)... On B&W you want to maintain about 68 F.

cool; i will be needing help with colour film on this forum soon though - please - anyone?

To process B&W as reversal - you need bleach and yes you invert the image from negative to positive by exposing to light.

Go to any place that sells photo-chemical supplies.

thanks; i have D76 now - and fixer; but will obviously need thermostats for the 64T - ?

R

[steve hyde]

...a number of different ways to "push".

- rate your 7266 at 125, 100 when you shoot it.

Steve

but how, Steve - most super8 cameras automatically select the asa setting by the notch on the film cassette?

mine is a Nizo 801 - the manual expose mode just selects a single f/stop, there is no override for asa setting, as far as i'm aware?

http://super8wiki.com/index.php/Nizo_801

leaving it to develop longer seems straightforward though - thanks,

R

in that case - yes you will need to develop longer. Really all you can do is test to learn how to do it. I trashed a few rolls learning. That is just the cost of learning it. Fortunately in the States 7266 is 7.USD per roll if you buy at the student rate through Kodak.

have fun,

Steve

[mr_x]

in that case - yes you will need to develop longer. Really all you can do is test to learn how to do it. I trashed a few rolls learning. That is just the cost of learning it. Fortunately in the States 7266 is 7.USD per roll if you buy at the student rate through Kodak.

have fun,

Steve

oo-ee, 7266 is slightly more expensive than that, over the counter, over here :o [lol]

nevertheless, i'm really looking forward to shooting this footage and doing my very first, own ciné developing - those Lomo's have been standing idle long enough!

bests,

R

[steve hyde]

...yes. Don't leave the LOMO idle..

At the peak of my LOMO abilities I was able to load two carts simultaneously by holding each one between my fingers in one hand while spinning the wheel with the other. I must confess though that one time I became entangled in the dark and after about a half hour of trying to recover I had to find some spare reels in the dark and wind up and start over. In the end I was victorious though.

Best thing with those LOMOs is to buy a bunch of film and do a lot of it. I learned a lot doing it. It's fun to shoot a roll and then look at it an hour later.

I've got four 16mm daylight rolls that I'm going to LOMO. I haven't done any 16 in it yet, but I did try a test wind with a processed roll of 16.

Steve

[mr_x]

...yes. Don't leave the LOMO idle..

- just as soon as i get that footage ... !

At the peak of my LOMO abilities I was able to load two carts simultaneously by holding each one between my fingers in one hand while spinning the wheel with the other. I must confess though that one time I became entangled in the dark and after about a half hour of trying to recover I had to find some spare reels in the dark and wind up and start over. In the end I was victorious though.

Best thing with those LOMOs is to buy a bunch of film and do a lot of it. I learned a lot doing it. It's fun to shoot a roll and then look at it an hour later.

I've got four 16mm daylight rolls that I'm going to LOMO. I haven't done any 16 in it yet, but I did try a test wind with a processed roll of 16.

Steve

doubt i will ever experiment with 16mm but i am very pleased to be able to use 8mm, which i originally used in default of 16mm - it is just beyond belief that this medium, which became largely redundant with the advent of vhs video tape, is still being produced by major firms like Kodak

quite like messing around with vhs - have an excellent vhs cam - but the visual quality of vhs tape is vastly inferior to celluloid, even though it has its own unique 'feel' : and of course, the tape is reasonably unresponsive - creatively - but i'm still working on that ... or at any rate, thinking about it ...

dummy-loaded the lomo's previously - am fairly confident the load will go smoothly enough (fingers crossed) or put the whole lot in a sealed bucket and process it that way :lol:

R-10 bleach is going to be a worry to obtain, i fear: this is not the end of the world for B/W but can i develop colour without bleach (open question) and reverse the tones digitally? i am loathe to import digital tech into the middle of the process, but what can you do :o ?

[mr_x]

hi,

just found these on the Silverprint page - why do these kits leave out the re-exposure bit, please? would you still need to re-expose on developing 8mm film, and what then is the difference, making re-exposure necessary?

http://www.silverprint.co.uk/PDF/reversal_web.pdf

http://www.silverprint.co.uk/PDF/j87.pdf

can i in fact use these kits with Super8 b/w films?

thanks

Ric

[mr_x]

at the risk of having a dog and barking as well ...

been contemplating the lomo with a mixture of forboding and anticipation, and finally decided to give it a whirl this evening. at the last moment i abandoned D-76 for an ancient ID-11 kit i found gathering dust, and put my faith in something which was tried and tested; though, apparently, these two powder forms are exactly parallel chemistry? i borrowed freely from some very welcome developing procedures at this site - omitting the re-expose sections - and came up with the following:

25°C developer @ 0+1 strength / Ilford ID-11 for 5 minutes

wash 2 minutes

fix 2 minutes / Kodak Unifix 1+4

final wash 10 minutes

In fact, the developer temperature was more like 35°C with almost double the time for developing, by the time 1L of developer had all trickled inside the lomo tank (unbearably slow). i did not 'stop' the developer because i never use stop bath for film. impossibly - for working blind like this - the film all came out, in negative, of course ... i cannot believe it and obviously need to project it or run it through the editor for a better opinion

the worst part was attempting to screw the two halves of the lomo spiral together in the dark - i will need to knock together something which aligns these two spirals so they can be directly secured through the centre; otherwise, there is absolutely no guide in the dark and you end up - like - trying to thread an invisible needle ... came too close to losing the whole lot on the floor at one stage

still, beginners' luck - i am sure?

;)

thanks,

Ric

[mr_x]

do not pour chemicals through the lid, as with 35mm developing tanks - affix funnel to drainage pipe and pour chemicals into the tank via this, holding it above the level of the lomo all the while: this will deliver chemical solutions directly to the film; if you attempt to pour chemicals through the lid aperture, the restrictive space means it will take about 5 minutes to deliver approximately 1 litre of liquid to the lomo this way - potentially disastrous to an even development.

R

[mr_x]

7266 footage here

http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=zcTDVRaJdGk

R

[mr_x]

so what exactly is the difference between Kodak D-76, D-94A and D-96 and are they parallel chemistry to Ilford ID-11?

thanks,

R

[mr_x]

you could email Richard (nanolab) and ask how he does it.

thanks - i have indeed done this, and Richard has given me excellent guidance!

[ at last i get to use the Lomo ... 8O ]

Richard - can you resend me please? Thanks,

Ric