Lucky me but needs help
Moderator: Andreas Wideroe
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Lucky me but needs help
Hi guys
I just got 10 rolls of Vision 500T and 10 rolls of 64 Ekta as wedding presents from a director/dp friend of mine.
I just wanted to know if my Minolta D10 will be able to read the ASA/DIN properly for these new stock. The D10 is rated up to 640 for color stock but I never want to assume. I am gonna bring it to Grenada for our honeymoon and transfer it to HDCAM or DVC Pro HD (or 2K) when I come back.
Thanks in a advance.
I just got 10 rolls of Vision 500T and 10 rolls of 64 Ekta as wedding presents from a director/dp friend of mine.
I just wanted to know if my Minolta D10 will be able to read the ASA/DIN properly for these new stock. The D10 is rated up to 640 for color stock but I never want to assume. I am gonna bring it to Grenada for our honeymoon and transfer it to HDCAM or DVC Pro HD (or 2K) when I come back.
Thanks in a advance.
Last edited by Chinese Belle on Mon Sep 24, 2007 4:49 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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insert a cart, take a reading or something, insert a cart that you know works, like a k40 if you got one, then compare and see if it's the right number of stops between them. or use a grey card and an external meter for a more exact test but not as simple.
(hey, check you pm's. i have a question)
/matt
(hey, check you pm's. i have a question)
/matt
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Good to see you again, Chinese Belle. I haven't been around much lately. With regards to using a digital still camera for this test, Ive heard that some people have reported seeing exposure differences of the same subject when setting their film and digital cameras to the same shutter speed, f stop and asa settings. So this may not be an entirely 'safe' way of going about it.
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So I brought 5 500T and 5 64.
So far I am overexposing the 500T by 1/2 to 1 f-stop. And 1/2 stop for the 64.
Once I get back I will transfer it to HDCAM and will post stills when it is possible.
Thanks for the tips btw - I decided to use a classic meter to test. My camera was off by -1/4 fstop. So I assume that is the within range considering the mechanics of S8 cams not being ground glass and all (correct me if I am wrong).
Since I decide to overexpose I should be ok.
BTW - should i pull develop or keep it normal? I heard you can get good results with certain stocks if you overexpose and pull develop.
correct me if I am wrong
So far I am overexposing the 500T by 1/2 to 1 f-stop. And 1/2 stop for the 64.
Once I get back I will transfer it to HDCAM and will post stills when it is possible.
Thanks for the tips btw - I decided to use a classic meter to test. My camera was off by -1/4 fstop. So I assume that is the within range considering the mechanics of S8 cams not being ground glass and all (correct me if I am wrong).
Since I decide to overexpose I should be ok.
BTW - should i pull develop or keep it normal? I heard you can get good results with certain stocks if you overexpose and pull develop.
correct me if I am wrong
With the 500T neg film, I would overexpose and develop normally. This will lead to deeper blacks and snappier contrast. Overexposing and pull processing will lead to reduced contrast.
Ummm...you sure about overexposing the 64T? As you know, reversal films don't usually handle overexposure all that well. Though I have heard of a few people getting acceptable results (and sometimes even liking the results) when their 64T is a fraction overexposed. Still, I would play it safe and expose 64T correctly. Then again, everyone's different. Have a great honeymoon!
Ummm...you sure about overexposing the 64T? As you know, reversal films don't usually handle overexposure all that well. Though I have heard of a few people getting acceptable results (and sometimes even liking the results) when their 64T is a fraction overexposed. Still, I would play it safe and expose 64T correctly. Then again, everyone's different. Have a great honeymoon!
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Well my camera (Autopak D10) does EV and not F-stop for over/under.
.5/1/1.5/2 EV steps.
I wanted to do a slight over for 64, and 1 full stop over for 500.
I end up using 10 rolls (5 for each). I am going to get it developed and either transferred in HDCAM/DVC Pro HD or scanned to image sequence.
Hopefully, they look decent. I will develop normally as you suggested.
.5/1/1.5/2 EV steps.
I wanted to do a slight over for 64, and 1 full stop over for 500.
I end up using 10 rolls (5 for each). I am going to get it developed and either transferred in HDCAM/DVC Pro HD or scanned to image sequence.
Hopefully, they look decent. I will develop normally as you suggested.
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Chinese Belle, congrats on your wedding and a most unusual present. I've been loaned a D10 -- lovely to use, great looking design -- and it has a dead meter. Well, not dead, but reads about 3 full stops dark. Having to measure and set manually on that camera is pretty inconvenient. So I'm just curious about yours, which seems to be in great working order, or if anyone else has knowledge of this camera. It seems like lots of different cameras develop meter problems, yet others are always fine.
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I have 2 D10.
Both works well. The only flaw in one of them is the contact for the extra battery pack (in order to do high speed/slo-mo) is a bit loose. So using it for 36/52 fps is a bit tricky at best. Actually, other than that, it works flawlessly. The zoom motor is actually the smoothest I have seen - and I had a lot of top grade S8 cams (Leicina Special, 1014XL-S, Nizo Pro and 6080,etc).
You cant set the fstop manually. To be more accurate, it is never *fully* manual. You can 'lock' the meter and tweak (via EV dial). But there is not dial to go up or down fully.
Also, make sure you have the shutter set to Automatic.
In my experience, meters in S8 cameras tends go bad the most compared to other features (motor, zoom, lens, etc).
Both works well. The only flaw in one of them is the contact for the extra battery pack (in order to do high speed/slo-mo) is a bit loose. So using it for 36/52 fps is a bit tricky at best. Actually, other than that, it works flawlessly. The zoom motor is actually the smoothest I have seen - and I had a lot of top grade S8 cams (Leicina Special, 1014XL-S, Nizo Pro and 6080,etc).
You cant set the fstop manually. To be more accurate, it is never *fully* manual. You can 'lock' the meter and tweak (via EV dial). But there is not dial to go up or down fully.
Also, make sure you have the shutter set to Automatic.
In my experience, meters in S8 cameras tends go bad the most compared to other features (motor, zoom, lens, etc).
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What you've described is consistent with what I've been dealing with -- having to target an F-stop number by cupping my hand near the lens, then using the exposure lock. Leaving compensation set to +2 helps a little, but when the meter "moves," it moves slow and wide and takes time to settle. Not fun. But the footage looks gorgeous when shot right.
Haven't actually shot with the zoom motor because they always move too fast for my taste even on the slowest setting. The other camera I've been trying, an Elmo 612R, also is very smooth, but is even faster!
Haven't actually shot with the zoom motor because they always move too fast for my taste even on the slowest setting. The other camera I've been trying, an Elmo 612R, also is very smooth, but is even faster!