64t pushed to 160 - pictures

[richard p. t.]

I believe the 100d could take a 2 stop push to 400d. I would be weary of going further than that myself. I have processed 100d as 200, 250 and once at 400. as 200 and 250 the results are very pleasing. I will do a test shortly for 400. I suspect at 400 we will start to see more than just an increase in grain.
Got to try some of that Provia!

Here are a couple of stills of 100d pushed to 200 asa.

[cubdukat]

I love the look of 64T, pushed to 160 I think it is better than the old Ektachrome 160. Would be nice to see it shot under tungsten light so as to judge its use indoors where pushing the speed would be most beneficial. It has great colors and is sharp enough to produce some very pleasing images. Sometimes we (that goes for me too) get carried away with seeking the ulimate in sharpness. Funny when you read in American Cinematographer the lengths pros have gone to reduce sharpness (nets, filters, even vasoline) to tone down the image for artistic reasons or to make an aging actor look better...



David M. Leugers

I agree. This reminds me of what E160 would be if Kodak reformulated it. The grain is a lot more acceptable at 160 than 64. E64T is inexcusably grainy at its true speed.

Fortunately, if I take this approach, I don't even have to worry about anything but filtration; the Canon 514XL-S reads it as 160 automatically. The AZ814, though, I'll have to do exposure manually since the lightmeter either doesn't work, or the batteries were DOA. But until I can get a true lightmeter, I'm using the one on my Maxxum 70.

[Muckymuck]

Seems these new films are more versatile than the previous generation of Kodak stocks when it comes to push/pull processing!

What about Ektachrome 64T pulled 2/3 stop (or even just 1/2 a stop) so it can be used as 40 ISO in 40/160 cameras? Any stills of that, Richard?

[ekta-clone]

These pics look awsome. Can we hope for a motion version posted at some point?

[James E]

Richard, when you notch your carts to differnt speeds, how are you handling the processing? I'm still trying to figure out the whole push/pull thing iworks in the lab. Any tips would be appriciated.
Thanks,

[Patrick]

"Richard, when you notch your carts to differnt speeds, how are you handling the processing? I'm still trying to figure out the whole push/pull thing iworks in the lab."

From what Ive heard, many of the machines used in labs, particularly mini labs, are highly automated and aren't capable of doing push / pull processing.

[richard p. t.]

Hi James,
changing the cartridge notch of course only changes the auto exposure reading given by the camera. This is done as a convenience for the person doing the filming. I notch 64 as 160 (or 100d as 250 etc) so people can shoot with these stocks on auto such that they will be correctly rated for push processing - in these examples, by 1 and 1/3rd stops. To do the push, the processing times have to be altered. With a continuous processor, this is done by increasing the distance between rollers such that it takes longer for the film to run through particular baths. This is why labs that offer push or pull processing will often charge a set up fee. So if you want to pursue having some films push processed, make sure you ask at your lab first if it costs and if so how much.
RT

[James E]

I have a couple of LOMO tanks. So I do all of my own processing. As far as I know push/ pull involves either shortening or lengthening the first developer. How much time do you extend/ shorten the chemical step(s) for a given push/ pull stop????
Thanks,

[richard p. t.]

Right. Generally only an adjustment to the first developer is necessary. Normally the chemistry you are using will have come with a data sheet that will tell you the push/pull adjustments necessary. I can tell you the times I use ... but if you are using different chemistry that would only be a starting point. i'm not at the lab right now (am in melbourne as I write) but i can send you some times early in the week.
What chemistry are you using?

[James E]

I'm using the Kodak single use E-6 kit.
Thanks,

[richard p. t.]

I'm using the Kodak single use E-6 kit.
Thanks,

Hi James,
Page 13 of the following document has the info you need for Kodak E-6 kits:
http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professi ... 83/j83.pdf

to work out intermediate pushes and pulls between the full 'stop' differences listed, think in a log scale.
The second half of any desired change in density (ie from 1 stops to 2 stops push) will take twice as long as the first half.
Also, the last thrid of a desired change takes place in the second half of the required time.
So if a 1 stop push is +2 mins and a 2 stop push is +5, then a 1.5 stop push would be about 3 mins. A 1 and 1/3rd stop push is thus between 2 and 3 mins, indeed it is a push 2/3rds of the way between 1 and 1.5 stops (1/3 = 2/6. 1/2 = 3/6.) Since the last thrid of any desired change takes as long as the first 2/3rds of said change, you want half the time of the full change required in order to make a 2/3rd of a degree of change. So If +2 mins = +1 stop change and +3 mins = 1.5 stops change, then +2.5 mins = +1 and 1/3 stops change. This is of course approximate. But it is a good starting point.

Also James if using a 5Litre Kit, I would think in terms of the whole Kit as being able to process 24 super 8 films. The Kodak info is not very clear about applying their times for processing to exhaustion rather than replenishment. They do give a little bit of info about it however. This is what I would do:

Take a 5 litre kit and think of it as having 3 'doses' in it of 1.666 ml. Each dose can do 8 films - preferably as 4 'uses' doing 2 films at a time.
Since you are using manual agitation, your innitial 1st dev time should be 6min15 sec. So do something like this: (the decimal is seconds)
1st dev Col dev Bleach Fix
USE 1 6.15 6 +0 +0
Use 2 6.25 6.25 +1 +1
Use 3 6.35 7 +2 +2
Use 4 6.45 8 +4 +4

I mean this as a guide only based on a quick look at the Kodak info. Only experience will tell if these times work for you. Note that the Kodak Kits say you should not process more than 50 x 36exp films. That = 20 super 8. You could stop at use 3 if you wanted. Feel free to add tothe bleach and fix times.

Enjoy