Quartz 1x8s-2 and 64T

[Cine_Monkey]

Hi everyone! Im BACK!!!!

After a while away from my cine camera due to being broke at university, Im now wanting to start filming again, and am off to the concentration camps in Poland.

Now last time I used my camera, A wind up quartz 1x8s-2 from the widescreen centre was before 64T so this will be the first film I run thru.

Can anyone simply tell me if it will work or what i need to do to get the best results.

I have read site about the cameras not sensing the speed correctly, but that you can use the + or - exposure compensation on my camera to compensate. Has anyone else used this camera and what is the best setting to get the best results.

The web seems pretty vague about how I should set the camera.

Id be so grateful for some advice please.

[mattias]

i never trusted the built in meter on my quartz anyway, since i don't have any fresh mercury cells and do not wish to pollute the world with them even if i could find them. this is a good time to start using an external meter.

/matt

[Cine_Monkey]

Hi Matt.

Yes I agree, this is the second camera I had since the first one just gave virtually black film upon development!

Good news is I have a small manual lightmeter that has a cine scale on. How should I use it? I have read about having to hold it to the ground not point it into the direction of where im shooting. Also about dont meter certain things, use grass not tarmac???

Any easy fast methon of me metering? Ill be taking film around the camp of the buildings and artifacts.

[mattias]

Good news is I have a small manual lightmeter that has a cine scale on. How should I use it?

if it has a little white dome on it it's an incident light meter, otherwise it's a reflected light meter. incident light meters, more accurate and easier to use, are used to measure the light falling on the subject, so you place it near your subject and aim it either towards the key light source or towards the camera, or both and take the average. a reflected meter should be held close to the camera and aimed at the subject. it works exactly like the built in meter except unless it has a viewfinder like spot meters do it's not wysiwyg. such meters are good if you want to use the zone system or if the subject is hard to reach. either way you have to compensate for the viewfinder light loss, in the quartz case i'd say half a stop should work. good luck.

/matt

[vidwerk]

Does anyone know the shutter angle of this camera?

vidwerk.

[BK]

I have read site about the cameras not sensing the speed correctly, but that you can use the + or - exposure compensation on my camera to compensate. Has anyone else used this camera and what is the best setting to get the best results.

Welcome back!

This camera don't have sensing pins for film speeds, it's done with the dial with the -2 +2 on the top right of the camera. Set it slightly above the middle 0 and it's set for 64 ish asa for the auto meter, use this and compare to the reading off your light meter. Doubt if you use manual the aperture needle is very precise on the aperture indicated in the viewfinder display. You have to shoot some tests and find out.

Used the auto meter on mine ( I used K40 ) and exposure was spot on.

vidwerk, the shutter speeds according to the Russian manual if it's any help:

9fps 1/22 sec
12fps 1/29 sec
18fps 1/43 sec
24fps 1/58 sec
32fps 1/77 sec

Bill

[vidwerk]

vidwerk, the shutter speeds according to the Russian manual if it's any help:

9fps 1/22 sec
12fps 1/29 sec
18fps 1/43 sec
24fps 1/58 sec
32fps 1/77 sec

Bill

Thanks Bill.
Ya I thought it was 150 degrees. I guess this is a norm for most non-XL super 8 cameras.

vidwerk.

[mattias]

Used the auto meter on mine ( I used K40 ) and exposure was spot on.

did you use fresh mercury cells, or old ones, or some other kind of cell with the same or similar voltage?

/matt

[Muckymuck]

I have actually used Ektachrome 64T in a Quarz 1 x 8S-2 on auto exposure, using Weincell button batteries at 1.35v and the camera set at 0, and the exposure was P E R F E C T.

I might just be lucky as I got a 1992 camera which had never been used before me, however.

[livio]

When I bought my Quarz it came with two mercury cells inside: even if probably quite old, I measured them and they still gave 1.35V (mercury cells can last very long). I shot some feet with them in auto mode and then I changed the cells with two new alkaline 1.5V button cells (just to see what happened), and exposure didn't seem different (I did this with my last k40 roll)
My Quarz internal light meter seems very accurate (I mean: it gives constant results) but on my camera the "0" setting corresponds to EI 100 and not to "EI 50" like it is should be. I realized it by comparing it with an external light meter, by supposing that at 18 fps exposure should be about 1/40s, but I think that any single Quarz light meter behaves in its own way!
But with mine, in auto mode, you can't set the dial half way between one mark and another since the aperture collapse to f/22.
At the moment one of my favourite cameras, and I paid it 1 euro (plus 9 for shipping from Germany)!

[richard p. t.]

The Quarz when set on '0' is set for 50 asa. If you shot K40 with it, how did it go? Theoretically it would be 1/3rd stop under, where as 64t would be 1/3rd stop over exposed. But yes it depends on the meter. If the K40 looked o.k. then you need to open up a little. If the K40 could afford to be a little lighter, then the 64t would probably be o.k. This is all only if you want to shoot using the internal meter of course. With manual, set the light meter to the shutter speeds given by BK. Best if you can bang off a roll and have a look of course before you go on your trip.

[BK]

did you use fresh mercury cells, or old ones, or some other kind of cell with the same or similar voltage?

I used fresh PX625 cells thats still available here, and my camera was a brand new one too. I compared the readings off my light meter and it looked ok so I took a gamble and shot some film with the camera on auto aperture.

Set my ASA dial to the +1 position for the K40 as indicated in the manual, like I mentioned earlier for 64T it would just slighty above the 0 position.

Bill

[Muckymuck]

Sounds like two different versions of this camera must exist if one manual specifies a +1 for Kodachrome 40.

My manual states that without the filter in place:

-2 = 200
-1 = 100
0 = 50 (40)
+1 = 25
+2 = 12

Presumably the camera compensates 2/3 when the filter is put in place.

All I know is that on mine 0 is the correct setting for both Kodachrome 40 and 64T (it is probably under/over exposing the respective films but 1/3 really is not noticable with this camera). For further info, the lens is pinsharp too! A fantastic piece (and I have used many cameras).

[BK]

Sounds like two different versions of this camera must exist if one manual specifies a +1 for Kodachrome 40.

For further info, the lens is pinsharp too! A fantastic piece (and I have used many cameras).

Or I could have mis-read the Russian manual thinking that setting it to +1 is for K40 with the daylight filter in place which brings the film speed to 25 ASA. This indicates the dial might not be accurate and it's best to check the auto meter against a handheld meter.

I agree the lens is sharp and it has a bias towards red which gives a lovely warm tone to the images.

Bill

[morales72]

I have actually used Ektachrome 64T in a Quarz 1 x 8S-2 on auto exposure, using Weincell button batteries at 1.35v and the camera set at 0, and the exposure was P E R F E C T.

I might just be lucky as I got a 1992 camera which had never been used before me, however.

Hi to all!

My a-lens tests with this camera I did it exactly like Muckymuck and turn out a little bit overexposed, but still look good since the grain was reduced. I would sugest give it a go and see how it looks.

Good luck and best regards,

Morales