Budget 70DR

[marc]

I finally received my filmo 70DR and it looks like it is in good condition! (Only the screwhandle for turning the filmcounter was broken. Perhaps it can be purchased somewhere.. )
Want to try the camera asap.

A quick question to the filmo experts on this subject.

- What are the shutter speeds for the camera. I know 16-speed is 1/28. Can anybody tell me what the higher speeds need for shutterspeeds?

- Filming with K40. (Do) I need a screw-on lensfilter for conversion to daylight? That would mean i need 3 filters for the 3 lenses! It seems that the filmo needs screw on filter and does not have some kind of slot for a filter between lens and film?!?


Thanks, Roel

yeah - when shooting at 24fps I always meter for 1/50th. . RE: filters - they can be expensive. One cheap alternative is to get a piece of 85 amber gell and cut and tape to the lens. This may sound sketchy, but it is done all the time for different fiter effects. Just make two small loops of tape and stick them to the side of your lens then place the gell in front of the lens and roll the tape up until it is flush against the front of the lens.

If you really want to get creative you can fashion cut outs for areas within your composition that you want to have blue light..

Steve

The Dr has a 204 degree shutter angle so you will have to meter for a slower exposure rate.

[marc]

maybe a dumb suggestion...but why don't we start a website on the filmo?
There is a lot of information that is known to all of us...buth u can't find on the web..

Yahoo has had one for years.

[flatwood]

.....I've owned a couple of Som Berthiot Pan Cinor 17-85 lenses, and been happy with their performance on Filmo cameras. The one you have is one of the older ones (later lenses were all black and had a right angle dogleg, I believe).......

Thanks. I would desire it go wider but hopefully it will let me shoot a roll and see what Ive got here, if this is gonna work for me. I do have a half inch lens but no VF for it...

[steve hyde]

Strange that this intervelometer works with the Eyemo, but not the Filmo...

FOR TIMELAPSE

http://www.intervalometers.com/rev/eyemo/index.stm

anybody know why?

Steve

[audadvnc]

Clive Tobin is the guy who builds it - ask him.

The short & sweet version: Eyemo is not Filmo, it starts with an "E".

Slightly less short version:The trigger and film advance mechanisms, though similar, are not exactly the same. If Clive could have made his machine work for both, he would have.

RE: filters - they can be expensive. One cheap alternative is to get a piece of 85 amber gell and cut and tape to the lens. This may sound sketchy, but it is done all the time for different fiter effects.

A word of caution on using lighting gels as camera filters. Lighting gels are not designed to be optically transparent; they are easily scuffed and often have inconsistencies in the material that can degrade the image. Camera filters are expensive because they are expected to be optically perfect.

[Nigel]

Ask Clive why he can't sell another lot of flat bases for the 2-C.

If he made the base I would buy one right now.

I know it is off topic.

Clive--This isn't meant to start anything.

Good Luck

[flatwood]

Here's a pic of the 70DR that started this thread. I took the lens to Georgia with me and cleaned it up. I had to modify the mount to get it to work on the Filmo. It's just too dang heavy to use though and I think I need to make a support for the lense.

[Nigel]

What kind of mod did you have to do??

Was it due to the thread?? The bolt that Steve speaks about??

Good Luck

[flatwood]

No problem with the bolt but the lens was mfg to work on a Bolex and had a registration pin that caused it to not line up with the Filmo (the eyepiece is not adjustable). Fortunately the pin is pressure fit and once I had the lense apart and found it, it came out pretty easily. I just drilled a new hole (drill press needed) and reset the pin once I marked it for the new orientation. The pin is located under the knurled ring on the camera side of where the viewer attaches.

I suspect that the bolt might get in the way with an Angenieux reflex lense because of the way the c-mount adapter fits. Actually, I have one of those adapters in my kit. It will be easy enough to check that out too.

[ncsproducts]

Clive Tobin is the guy who builds it - ask him.
The short & sweet version: Eyemo is not Filmo, it starts with an "E".
Slightly less short version:The trigger and film advance mechanisms, though similar, are not exactly the same. If Clive could have made his machine work for both, he would have.

Ack! The Revolution Eyemo, and all the Revolution Motors (for Eyemo, Bolex and Arri II) were designed by me. Also built by me. And I'm not Clive.

What might have confused you was that Clive had tried to make a sync motor for the Filmo, but discovered it wasn't possible to do so if limited to using only 1970's technology. :roll:


The Filmo has a 20:1 input shaft (one turn exposes 20 frames). On the Eyemo it's 8:1. With a little extra programming, I was able to have it run sync on the Filmo. Had it going at 64fps sync, with a 24V supply.

But I never bothered re-programming it for single-frame on the Filmo, because nobody is going to buy a $1K motor to shoot timelapse with a Filmo.

How did you get NCS Products mixed up with...anyone else? I mean, these are latest technology microprocessor-controlled brushless digital motors, not ancient 1970's technology curiosities.

[steve hyde]

Thanks for clearing this up Dom. Do you have any suggestions for a work around timelapse method? While your motor looks excellent, it is indeed the case that I don't want to spend 1k on one for my Filmo. I'm using the Filmo for shooting in remote regions of South America. I chose the Filmo for its clock-work simplicity and reliability....and no insurance policy

It is cumbersome to use, but based on my first round of color negative tests, I'm glad I bought this camera. I'd love to make timelapses with it if possible.
Please advise.

This is what I'm working with (FYI for anyone interested)..Nigel - notice the "bolt" I told you about..:

[flatwood]

That's the c-mount adapter I thought you were talking about. Does that run into the screw in the middle?? My adapter is packed away for the big move in a few weeks.

So, if it interferes then, how did you work around??? Is that a screw with a smaller head??? What happened to the camera VF???

Remote regions of south America??? That sounds exciting. I wanna know more?????

I bought mine to shoot some southern river footage; remote but not Steve Hyde remote!!!!

And I can use it for a boat anchor in an emergency.

[steve hyde]

..take a look at the fouth picture: you can see how the ang 17-68 lens sits flat on the turret. RE: the VF - it is on the film comparment door. I have two doors for this camera: one for non-reflex shooting with the turret compliment and the other for shooting with this reflex lens..

more later,,,,

Steve

[Nigel]

Ahhh...

That is a bit more clear now that I see what you are talking about.

Good Luck

[steve hyde]

That's the c-mount adapter I thought you were talking about. Does that run into the screw in the middle?? My adapter is packed away for the big move in a few weeks.

It's c to bayonet. There is no problem with the bolt because the moving lock-down piece (no idea of the term for this) is inside the mount and has to be tightened with a two-pronged tool that I don't have. (take a close look at the fifth picture I posted) Before I had the lens modified to bayo, there was no way to attach this particular lens to the camera. Unfortunately this bayonet adaptor gets in the way of putting other lenses on the turret so the adaptor has to be removed for switching to non-reflex shooting. My solution: buy another camera body for 75.00 bucks and have a dedicated non-reflex in the kit for shooting with my wide angle lenses.

Steve