Bolex H8 non-reflex vs reflex

Post by **feinto** » Mon May 08, 2006 11:41 pm

hi everyone...hope everyones doing good...

actually i'm new to this film format...all the while going digital.so hope you all can help me out with one of my many questions.

ok...i've been thinking about getting a Bolex H8..but after researching online....i've found that there's the non-reflex and relfex version...i want to know what are the difference and whats the advantage..because i've been eyeing on the non-reflex one...so i was wondering if it will be worth getting it.

thanks for your time..sorry if i said anything wrong here :?

Post by **gianni1** » Tue May 09, 2006 1:03 am

This depends on what use you are going to put it through. Reflex is more WYSIWYG. Non-reflex is a close appromation, with paralax errors up close to worry about.

If you were going to throw the camera down the stairs or into the air while it tumbles and films, or maybe as a crash cam, non-reflex would do just fine. Also if your filming style is very methodical and slow, taking extreme care with framing and focusing maybe it's ok with a non-reflex. But If you are filming documentary run and gun style, like riots or live concerts, performances, or sports, maybe a reflex would be better.

Gianni

Post by **David M. Leugers** » Tue May 09, 2006 6:49 am

Pros and cons for both. The Rex is nice for critical shot alignment, but be aware that the viewfinder can get pretty dim in low light making it hard to see clearly. You are also limited to lenses specifiically for the Rex model but they are fantastic lenses. Also the Rex goes for more money than the non-reflex model. The effective exposure is about 1/80 sec at 24fps for the rex... not exactly a low light animal...

The non-reflex H-8 can use any of the great lenses in "D" mount. Many are great and abundantly inexpensive. The side optical viewfinder is nice and bright and has adjustments for parallax so with care you can properly frame your images. There is a rack over device available which will provide critical framing as well as focusing when needed. There is no single frame shaft on any non-reflex H-8 so using an animation motor may be unavailable. The latest Rex-4 H-8's have the single frame shaft...

Hope this helps.

David M. Leugers

Post by **feinto** » Tue May 09, 2006 1:07 pm

Thanks for your replies, really appreciate it. At least now i have a clearer view on both the cams. David, you mention about the single frame shaft, i just wanna know, what is it? and is it necessary to have it in the camera.

And what's the difference between d-mount and c-mount lense.

sorry i don really know much about these cameras

Post by **Old Uncle Barry** » Tue May 09, 2006 1:14 pm

Yes indeed,If I had to choose again I think I would go for the non reflex version of the H8 as my filming is never in the need for really critical framing.Also,if you do not have the octameter viewfinder,images are severely dim in the reflex finder,especially in bright sunlight.
Whichever way you look at it,these cameras are masterpieces and just owning one is a pleasure,the only thing that comes seriously close to image steadiness (AND in this instance,claw fed as opposed to the H8) is the Canon Zoom8 reflex.

Post by **clivetobin** » Tue May 09, 2006 8:35 pm

feinto wrote:Thanks for your replies, really appreciate it. At least now i have a clearer view on both the cams. David, you mention about the single frame shaft, i just wanna know, what is it? and is it necessary to have it in the camera.
And what's the difference between d-mount and c-mount lense.
sorry i don really know much about these cameras

The single frame shaft will enable you to use crystal and animation/timelapse motors made for the 16mm cameras. Such as the Tobin TXM-20Ba/Be and TTL that we make. See http://www.tobincinemasystems.com . There is a lot of other useful information on the site.

A D mount lens has 5/8"-32 threads and is made to only cover the 8mm film frame. A C mount lens has 1"-32 threads and is made to cover the 16mm frame and some will cover the larger super-16 area. An H8RX lens might look like C mount, with the same threads, but is made to only cover the 8mm frame and is a different lens to film distance than C mount.

p.s.- A real film maker learns how to properly spell the word "lens" !

Post by **feinto** » Tue May 09, 2006 9:59 pm

lol...thanks to Tobin for pointing out my "lens" mistake.

Thanks a bunch for your useful information. I've learnt alot from this forum...great stuff u guys got here.

Niways how much do you guys reckon should i pay for a H8 non-reflex camera?

Post by **sonickel** » Wed May 10, 2006 12:19 am

I've got a question about these beautiful cameras.

How can you visually tell the difference between a RX and non-RX H8 Camera? I need a Rx. :twisted:

Post by **clivetobin** » Wed May 10, 2006 12:30 am

sonickel wrote:I've got a question about these beautiful cameras.
How can you visually tell the difference between a RX and non-RX H8 Camera? I need a Rx. :twisted:

The Reflex ones say H8 Reflex on the side, usually, and have 1" mounting thread lenses. It has been a long time since I have seen one but I think they also have RefleX engraved on the prism block behind the turret the same as the 16mm ones. The top finder is permanently mounted and has an obscuring lever and a focus ring.

The nonreflex ones have 5/8" thread lenses. The top finder, if any, comes off easily and is not attached with screws. It has only a focus adjustment. It looks through the lens at the top of the turret, not the one in the filming position.

Both the H8 and H8 Reflex should have movable film-spill retaining arms inside that adjust for 25, 50 and 100 foot spools. The 16mm ones do not have this.

I have an "Identifying Your Bolex" article with pictures on my website http://www.tobincinemasystems.com .

Post by **clivetobin** » Wed May 10, 2006 12:31 am

Sorry, got posted twice accidentally.

Post by **David M. Leugers** » Wed May 10, 2006 1:27 am

I have an "Identifying Your Bolex" article with pictures on my website http://www.tobincinemasystems.com .

Great place for everyone to start who is interested in the Bolex H cameras.
Great info Clive!

David M. Leugers

Post by **feinto** » Wed May 10, 2006 7:04 am

thanks tobin for the great info. And wow i've never realised that there are so many people still into these type of film format especially standard and super 8..coz now most of the people now are going at it in digital...and so do i..but ever since i picked up a Bolex from an antique shop last Friday..i'm totally hooked..surfing the net for more info...which is great. Hope to learn more from you guys.

By any chance, do you guys know where i can get my film processed in Australia?

Post by **ECNtoo** » Wed May 10, 2006 12:54 pm

if you are going to get one then make it reflex. no sense in not going that way. you get more options that way.

what film do you want proccessed?

Post by **feinto** » Wed May 10, 2006 6:38 pm

what film do you want proccessed?

processing for standard 8 films in australia..esp around melbourne..thanks

Post by **studiocarter** » Thu May 11, 2006 12:14 am

The H8RX is your best to get at about up to $300 for the macro Switar preset lenses with hoods, be sure to get the hoods, too.

Then, get a H16 non reflex. The 16RX lenses are just too much and a H16 works great.